chefduane

Yup. The car is wired for them but unless you have that option (with the motors, actuators, etc) you'll just have a cover panel there.

Power Rear Lift Gate actuator and Power Seat Positioner (1 & 2) actuators if you have them. If you don't it'll just be a dummy panel.

My '11 had remote start and a 5 button FOB. Unless there is a different key sequence that other FOBs use, you'll need a FOB that has the Remote Start button on it. Press it twice and the car starts. Others may chime in and correct me on this but I do think you'll need a different FOB.

I changed mine and 90k miles (per Ford recc) and used the stock Ford OEM plug. No problems. I did not change out the CoP.

^ This. My brake booster showed symptoms but I was still able to decelerate and come to a complete stop numerous times over 2 days before I could get it to the dealer for the booster replacement. There won't be a catastrophic failure that will cause an accident - at least I've never heard of one. Initiating the circumstances to cause one to get a free booster replacement before a deadline is kinda' unprincipled in my book.

Wow, 8k intervals IS pretty short. I do mine at 20k and I am also in Texas, DFW. I've found a local shop that will do a suck/fill for about $75 and paying that is worth it to me. I have mine done with Mobil-1 full synth gear oil. I do think that the Redline product is probably better but I think that keeping my intervals no longer than 20k is within the limits of any breakdown of the M1 product. Bconley, if you're at 90k with no problems consider yourself lucky but I wouldn't test fate. Either have it done or do it yourself ASAP. You can research yourself to death on what fluid to use. My advice is to pick a high temp full synthetic from one of the reputable brands and you should be fine. Regular flush/fills is the key rather than the brand of fluid IMHO.

A general inspection from below should include particular attention to the PTU and maybe the RDU. Any engine oil leaks also. Check for any seepage and/or tell tale signs of water pump leaks. Any foaminess in the oil should be concerning. Any seepage out of the shocks or struts? Check for radiator leaks. Any hydraulic fluid around the brake assemblies? I'm rambling now but the mechanic should know what to look for.

Been there, tried that, doesn't work - at least in my case. See Post #8. So I'm just going to wait until the camera fails completely then have it repaired.

I have a aftermarket shade that fits and works nicely on '11 Ltd with the power liftgate. Retracts great and covers the cargo area completely. Install is a bit of a pain as there was some drilling of the side panels involved to get it to stay securely. YMMV. (can't seem to get the hyperlink to paste) Search 'Kaungka Cargo Cover Retractable Ford Edge' on Amazon.

Mac, shoulda' been red, white, or blue!!

Heh! Sounds like the exact same analysis of the Gen II 4.0L SOHC Explorer. Years '98-'01. Timing chain slap due to the plastic tensioners breaking up and no longer keeping the chain tight against the cam gear. My '98 was in great shape when I sold it other than a bad chain slap. They could grenade at any point or the chain could skip and it's bent valve time. You could wait till she blew and drop a Jasper engine in it (or a JY engine) or tear it down and do a complete timing assembly rebuild. Either way your looking at mucho $$$$.

^ Wow, that's pretty interesting that Dorman is making a direct aftermarket replacement for the PTU. Also interesting is that you can either buy it and have it delivered to a local AutoZone or have it drop shipped directly to your doorstep. The Dorman site doesn't mention if it comes with a drain plug but if a replacement is needed it might be worthwhile to buy one, drill and tap it for a drain plug, and then have it installed by a local shop. Definitely keep this bookmarked! Good find 1bata!

I would be replacing green with green. I was just wondering if using a flush product would be cost effective.

Anybody ever used any of those cooling system flushes like Royal Purple Royal Flush? Drain the coolant, then use a 12oz bottle of the flush mixed with distilled water and bring the engine to temp. Then cool and drain the engine again then refill with coolant. Wonder if they would do any good to completely flush out old coolant, or is a simple flush with distilled water adequate.

My '11 came with the green but I do not know if it was the Ford Specialty Green. So I can assume (or not?) that Peak green meets the ASTM D-3306/4340 and should be ok?

Ok, just so I'm clear... Peak Universal can be used in place of Ford Specialty Green?

Enigma, thanks for posting that .pdf.! I had to go back and do a VIN check to find my DoM (11/11/10) on my '11 LTD to then determine I need VC10 - Specialty Green. (Apparently prior to 7/11/11 DoMs take Specialty Green and post 7/11/11 DoMs require Orange.) However, I'm still thinking that if a coolant meets Ford's 'Specialty Green' spec WSSM97B55-A that it should be OK. Not sure if the Peak that Mac uses meets Ford spec but he's got 250k on Lulubelle so me must be doing something right. I think the same oil discussion can be applied to coolant: Use the correct spec (whatever brand), change it at regular intervals (full flush recommended) and err on the side of lower mileage intervals. (I do mine at 30k.) Heading to Galveston tomorrow from Dallas. About 350mi / 700 round trip. Trip report with particulars will follow in a few days. That is all. EDIT: After a fairly exhaustive search I have been unable to find any coolant that states that it meets Ford VC-10A2 (WSSM97B55-A) spec. All will say that it won't void a warranty and meets manufacturers recommendations but none specifically say they meet the spec. So it looks like Specialty Green is the only option. However, I was able to find it at Rock Auto for $21.79/Gallon. With the 5% discount code it's only $20.70/Gallon. That's the best price I could find anywhere.

Yes, certainly a complete flush. Never mix coolants, i.e. add orange to a low reservoir filled with green (or vice versa). Probably even best to drain then flush with distilled water then refill with new coolant.

^ I took a look at that listing and saw that it said "with bittering agent." I was trying to think 'what the heck do they mean my that' when my dog walked under my legs and the light bulb went on. Also, as long as another brand coolant lists that it meets or exceeds the Ford spec (like Zerex Glysantin G-05) would Ford's fluid be necessarily required? Notwithstanding dealer issues with warranty claims of course. My '11 is out of warranty.

The most important component on sway bar end links is not the link itself, its the bushing. If the bushing is bad, aged, or just made of lousy material, the 'beefiness' of the link is irrelevant. Sorry they didn't hold up. I have not had to change links on my Edge but I did use Moog end links with Energy Suspension bushings on my Explorer and they were outstanding. www.energysuspension.com/products/sway-bar-end-link-bushings.html

Enigma - agree completely. Maybe for a special occasion or somesuch but I couldn't see using them for everyday use. I have Husky Liners in my passenger area and a nice WeatherTechs in the cargo area. Nice enough for my purposes!!

Agreed. All are great vehicles. Some folks like vanilla, some like chocolate. I've had 3 Fords because they fit with my lifestyle and what I want in a vehicle NOW. As a younger man I had a couple of Honda Accord sedans and a few Lexuses (Lexi?) but they fit my lifestyle then. But I agree that the technology and better vehicle for the money is the Ford.

That does seem odd. My '11 developed the brake booster issue and my dealer fixed it with no other issues occurring. This was probably about 2 years ago and all has been fine since.

Not sure what a 'brush style' car wash is but I have never had any problems with any carwash I have ever run through. Various types, too. The only thing that concerns me when I run through a carwash with a bug protector on is the force of the fans that clear of the water at the end of the wash run. The deflector can lift and vibrate a little (sometimes a lot, actually) but so far the deflector has stayed in place and has not loosened up. I mounted mine with hard mounting screws to the underside of the hood. I did not/would not trust the 'adhesive only' installation.

Where, pray tell, do you get 303 Aerospace Protectant? If you tell me will you have to kill me?