chefduane

San Angelo! Home of Los Lonely Boys! Been through there on the bike. Welcome from Plano! Congrats on the new ride!

I have an AWD and love it so far. I use "so far" as I have not had any PTU problems as yet. That may change if I have a major PTU problem, but I am keeping an eye on it and will be changing lube regularly (the 'lifetime fluid' claim by Ford is BS.) If you are interested in a minimum of drivetrain issues and do not necessarily have the time and resources to be as judicious as some, then yes I agree, get a FWD. Less complicated means less things to break. Do get an Extended Warranty if you are not a DIY'er. I agree with PerfA on all the other things to look for. For a comparison, I paid $17.9 for a '11 AWD Limited w/ 301a package 65kmiles. It pretty much pristine in appearance other than normal wear and tear (and maybe even a little better than that.) Good luck and happy driving!!

I have an '11. Verified on KYB.com that 334692/3 will fit and that's what he has.

Text send. What are the part numbers on the struts you have. You don't mention that. GR-2 is the model#.

Ejection Module. Make sure BAMR is open when activating.

K&N reusable Cabin Air Filter #VF2019 $29.99. Wash and re-use every other oil change. I figure 2 - 3 oil changes and its paid for itself. Plus, having to empty the glove box helps me get rid of all the crap and detritus that accumulates in there.

Caveat Emptor. I think you will have to chalk this one up to lessons learned. One is to really do your homework on a car before you buy it, including taking a test drive (which I assume you did.) Did you not ask about the miles and if it had a previous owner? An two, never *ever* take your wife (or kids) along when buying a car. Take her along when looking, shopping, test driving, etc.. but NEVER when you are actually going to negotiate a purchase. Nothing against your wife (or anyone's wife) but car salesmen >love it< when a wife is there during the negotiation.

I think Redline is a straight 80w gear oil while Ford specs 75w-140. If you decide to change to straight 80w you might have warranty issues if you have a problem.

Heck, if you really get in a jam I sure someone here would obtain the part and ship it to you in Brazil. Probably be a lot less than $172.00USD. Mods: If this suggestion is out-of-bounds let me know. Don't want the headline news to report about how the "Ford Edge Forum" participants are illegally shipping car parts to Brazil!

100 ft/lbs was spec'd on my '98 Explorer and now on my '11 Limited. I think 100 is pretty standard. 162 seems way too high.

$233!?? I just replaced the Canister Purge Valve on my '11 for about $35. Its pretty to do yourself with basic tools.

Good find on the vid. It really is a simple gearbox. Interesting that the cover also acts as the bearing race(s) for the idler and ring gears. The front side seal on the input gear is the one that is prone to fail? Haven't heard of the back side seal to the trans as a failure point. Too bad that Ford did not design this thing to be more robust. It seems as though the 3.5L Duratec/6F50 trans w/ AWD would be pretty bulletproof if the PTU was better engineered.

The Kool It stuff looks interesting but I don't have any issues with the A/C. I may do it as a preventative. One vid showed how to spray it into the vents - not sure about that. I'll try to post a few pics of the cover asap. I'd like to try a vid if possible. Do you have to have a pay membership to post videos? Regardless, I may just sign up anyway considering all the great info I've gotten.

Got the cargo cover installed today and I am very pleased with it! The construction and operation of the unit is more that acceptable. I did have to do some minor "Texas engineering" to get it to fit into the mounts once everything was installed... the unit was a bit wide and once the mounts were in and it would not settle down into the holder and there didn't seem to be any different location to mount the base holders and the shade ends. I had to use my hand-dandy Harbor Freight bench sander to take about 1/16" or so off both sides so that it would slip into the mounts. I used moly bolts on the mounts but only on the base ends up near the rear seats. There was only about 1 inch or less behind the interior panel at the hatch end and I could not get a butterfly bold in there. If there is an issue with it I will retrofit with the base plate method - so that remains to be seen. All in all I'm pretty happy. I also cleaned and conditioned the battery connections (wire brush and such) and tested it with a new BA-7 tester I bought. 12.55v +/- and 850 CCAs. The battery looks new so I think the dealer replaced it when they put it on the lot. I also put in a new Canister Purge Valve as I heard that there can be problems after 70k miles or so. I just passed 70k. Also, I was going to swap out the PCV but after I took off the shroud and saw where that thing was located I decided that that was a project for another day. Lastly, I did a MAF clean with some CRC cleaner. Me and the wife are driving from Dallas to Knoxville week after next and I thought I'd get things into shape for the trip. Tomorrow I'm going to blow out the AC drain as suggested by MacT in one of his vids.

Well the cargo cover arrived today from Guangzhou! I unboxed it and inspected it and I am pleasantly surprised by the quality. It seems to be fairly well made and the retract mechanism works well. I have been thinking about how to mount it and have decided that I would like to try to mount it without removing the trim panels. I am going to try the moly bolt solution. The rear panel seems sturdy/thick enough to handle a couple of moly bolts and the unit does not weigh all that much. The mount will have to support the weight of the cover and roller mechanism and the horizontal stress of the retraction spring. I would put the total weight at just about the same as the cargo cover for my previous Explorer and that of the Escape. I'm not sure if I will use an adhesive on the mount. If it doesn't work out and I choose to uninstall it, I don't want to have to deal with removing mounts that are glued onto the trim panels. Even if I drill a few holes in the panel, I could always cover them with trim plugs. I'm going to try to get it installed tomorrow. I really hope the install goes well and it is sturdy enough to handle regular use. Also, with all the friggin' research I did and having to order it by slow boat from China (literally) I really don't want this to be a bust.

I don't see the issue here. Get another, taller wife to ride in the front. The short one goes in the back. Problem solved.

$1500 repair sux but at least you found the problem before anything worse happened! Also, good on ya' for being attentive to your automobile and noticing that something was not right. Lotsa' folks would have just ignored it and waited till something blew.

PerfA, I have noticed that you have been able to post when new options have been introduced on particular model years. Are you referring to a chart somewhere, or is all that info in your monster cavernous fact filled Einstein brain?? Please do tell.

Interesting. Pg. 89 in my manual ('11 Limited AWD w/ 301a) under Driver Controls states: "Reverse Wiper Feature - The rear wiper will be automatically activated in an intermittent setting when shifting into R (Reverse) if the front wipers are activated. The feature may be enabled/disabled through the Message Center. Refer to the Message Center in the Instrument Cluster chapter." So I stand corrected by myself. heh. Don't know if I have it enabled or not.

I didn't even know there was a 'automatic mode.' My rear wiper operates completely independent of the front wipers and on a separate switch.

I put OEM splash guards on my '11. I tried aftermarket guards on other vehicles and they never seem to actually fit worth a poop. They are a little extra $$$ but OEM is your best bet IHMO.

USCG '77-'83. MSO LA/LB. USCGC Pt. Evans - SAR/Drug Interdiction. Never deployed overseas and never saw action. God Bless you guys that did, nice to have you home. Semper Paratus

Is your Edge AWD? If so, possible seal leaking? Smell the oil and see if it is lube oil. Oil filter need another 1/4-1/2 turn? But it sounds like you make have already eliminated that. Maybe you drove through someone else's oil and picked up some splatter that is now dropping on the floor? Any signs of the rest of the undercarriage being splattered?

Yes, that's along the lines of what I was thinking. After I receive it I'm going to evaluate whether it is worth installing. If it seems like a quality retractable cover then I'll take the time and expense involved to take off the interior side panels. Tacyon, I do like the backing plate idea with countersunk bolts with nylocks. If the rest of the unit is built acceptably, that sounds like a plan. Thanks!

The one enigma posted from ebay is exactly the cover I have. Never had a problem. Methinks it might be the fob itself, not the cover.