chefduane

If money wasn't an issue I'd being driving the GT, not an Edge.

Thinking about all this 'option add' and 'option delete' discussion... Is it possible to actually do a true 'build your own' Edge? The Ford website does have a 'build your own' option but it is constrained by what the packages offer. Add something, get something else you don't want.. delete one item and delete the whole package and a few things you might want. Would it be possible to talk a dealer into actually doing a specific 'made to order' order to Ford (or any manufacturer, for that matter?) (..don't want to h-jack the thread, let me know if I'm out of turn...)

I have heard good things about the Pirelli's. Not just here but in other groups as well. My Edge (bought used) came with a new set of Goodyear Eagles but when I need new tires I will look at the Pirelli Scorpion.

AK, yes that is another PITA. If want to put in an additive I have to use the little plastic funnel adapter. Man, you guys are really makin' me go nutso!!! (see paranoid inner self comment above.)

Yeah, I think its one of those love it or hate it things. I guess I'm just an old school guy - growing up in LA it was always a worry that something would get put or dropped into the gas tank. We always made sure one of the first things we did was get a locking gas cap. I do admit that not having a gas cap is convenient but it makes my paranoid inner self go bonkers!

Not 2nd Gen but: Capless fuel filler. First time I filled up my '11 I thought "no gas cap...wtf?" Went to O'Reilly and bought a locking gas cap. I don't even like non-locking gas caps. Yeah, its convenient but... no gas cap at all!?

... just went to a wedding last weekend. Still have the Pachelbel Canon droning in my head.

When I bought my '11 Limited AWD the PRNDM indicators were also out. Never have lit. Anyone have a source for the procedure to pull the console and change out da bub and/or socket? Also, my Hazard Flashers do not work. I've check all fuses, etc, but can't find the problem. EDIT: I found a vid for the '07-'10 models but not the '11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuWeDdbLwLk Looks to be pretty similar tho. In the comments one guy who has an '11 mentions that you have to also remove the trim around the shifter to get to the bulb. I'm going to give this a try.

I see now. Yes, I think that the Michs are made with a little harder compound rubber and in snow would certainly harden up a bit more. I am no expert in winter driving (I live in Dallas!) but would bet that a harder compound tire would suck in snow. I would look for sometime with a little softer rubber compound - prolly take some research in the tires groups. Maybe just google 'softer rubber compound tires'. Good Luck!

I have a completely optioned Limited (301a) AWD. Man, I just had to have all the bells and whistles! Just me. I agree that if you can take or leave AWD, leave it. Adds complexity and an additional (and potentially expensive) failure point, and more maintenance requirements. I don't mind the wood trim on the interior, its done tastefully and not overdone. But if it is not your thing, no big deal. Am appropriately optioned SEL is probably the best value/bang for the buck. Nav is nice to have but GoogleMaps is a nice alternative and works great, but its cool to have a console display! I DO like the power lift gate and use it a lot. Remote start is meh, use it a few times to show off to your friends and that's about it... I can turn of my AC when I get to the car thankyouverymuch. I did not know that the standard engine in the MKX was the 3.7. Good to know.

I was going to recommend the Michelins but now... not so much. heh. I run Goodyear Eagle RS-A's P245/50r/20's and have been pretty happy with them, not your size but pretty good tire. I ran Michelins on my Explorer and was very please and they regularly get good reviews. Is there a particular reason that you don't like them? Just interested.

Approximately 1.1m of the Ford 2007-2014 CD3 platform have been sold. The CD3 platform includes the Edge, Fusion, Mazda CX-9, and G1&2 Mazda 6, and Lincoln MKX (Wikipedia). There is no source (at least that I can find) that tracks water pump failures that necessitate engine replacement/repair of the above mentioned models. However, if the CD3 platform was a truly a 'shit design' would we not hear more about numerous water pump/engine failures? Would we not hear about numerous recalls for that specific design flaw? Would the newsgroups not be flooded with multiple recollections of this particular failure? Would not some lawyer have already generated a class action suit to sue for the supposed victims of this obvious design flaw? We simply do not see any of these things. Granted, when the failure occurs and results in engine replacement/repair the aggrieved party does have an argument for lamenting the expense incurred (and rightly so), but its not due to a design flaw. The Ford Pinto ('71-'80) had a design flaw in its fuel tank location. That resulted the largest automobile recall up to that time, numerous lawsuits, and was covered expensively in the press. It is still covered in undergrad law studies regarding tort issues, business ethics, and cost/benefit analyses. Many feel Ford still has a black eye on the issue. That WAS a shit design. The CD3 platform generates none of these "design flaw" issues. In objective observation the manufacture numbers, numbers still on the road, and the many high mileage CD3's simply do not lead a logical person to any design issue. Agreed, it is a PITA when it happens and a real hit in the pocket book. But numerical analysis does not lead one to a coherent objective deduction of a design flaw. I understand if someone has the opinion that the CD3 water pump is a 'shit design' but opinions are subjective and emotional, and when faced with a $5k engine bill I feel your pain. Good Luck with whatever course of action is taken.

It always seems that when someone has a catastrophic failure (meaning $$$ to fix), it is due to a "shit design." Ford has had multiple thousands of these engines that run for multiple thousands of miles (it did go 104k miles, right?) with no major issues such as yours. Sorry, but a "shit design" just doesn't hang around for that long. I ran a Gen2 Explorer 4.0 SOHC for 213k miles and it ran like a top the day I sold it. And there are many folks over in the Explorer Forum that have gotten over 250k+ on the G2 4.0 SOHC. But every time one fails - mostly due to a timing chain guide failure - at high mileage, it is claimed that the 4.0L SOHC is a "crap design", "POS" engine. Always makes me chuckle. I'm sorry that you have had a water pump failure resulting in a complete engine failure. And I'm sorry that it will probably cost big money to fix it. And I'm also sorry that you might let this cause you to re-think your loyalty to Ford products. But saying it is due to bad design is simply not borne out by the facts. After all, one bad apple don't spoil the whole bunch through. Good Luck with whatever you decide to do.

Part 1: I use an AEM Dry-Flo filter on my 3.5 for the specific reason that an oiled filter (K&N or other) can possibly foul the MAF. Now, there are some that say the a K&N won't oil up the MAF and some that insist that it will. I used an AEM filter in my Explorer and it worked great so I went with one on my Edge. And since it is not an oiled filter there are no concerns about gunking up the MAF. And I like the convenience of a re-usable filter. I don't know about oiling up compressor components (and I haven't done any research on it) but I would be more concerned about MAF fouling. I could be wrong about that, tho. Pat 2: No clue.

If expense is an issue, why not just go without? Can't just a regular valve stem be used?

I really wasn't trying to hyper-mile (!) and having the convenience of CC was the more significant issue. Bear in mind that we were also carrying a full load of 10 days worth of clothes, etc.. for both of us for 10 days, a couple of shotguns, and a dog with a crate.

I change them once a season here in Texas. We get pretty hard rains and hot, sunny, days that really eat up blades. I just buy whatever better+ brand is on sale. BUT, I do Rain-X my windshield once every year. Makes average blades good, and good blades better.

Yes, I recently (within the last 60 days) did all fluids (oil/filter, trans, PTU, coolant, differential) all with synthetic where applicable. Mobil-1 synth and a Mobil-1 Hi-mileage on the filter. I also completed a suck/fill procedure on the brake and PS fluids. I put in an AEM Dry-Flow air filter and also did a MAF clean. I also recently did a full brake job with new rotors and pads. And I put in a K&N Cabin Air Filter. I think that's about it. Not sure if my fill ups were with winter mix or not (not sure how to tell, frankly). Initial fill was with Costco 87 and the other fills were either Exxon 87 or Shell 87 - all along I30 Dallas to Little Rock then I40 Little Rock to Knoxville (if that makes a difference.) Unfortunately, I did not separate out the hiway miles and the incidental in-town miles. GoogleMaps puts the route I took at 835 miles one way so 1670 round trip. At 1858 total, that yields 188 +/- incidental miles. We were there for 10 days so that would yield about 19 miles a day incidental miles, and that does sound reasonable. EDIT/SUPPLEMENT: I should also add that the Edge ran fantastic the whole trip. No hiccups or anything. We did not run the A/C but for about the last hour back into Dallas. I checked all fluids before the trip out and before returning, and nothing needed topping, etc.. I was very impressed with the cruise control functionality. This was the first time using it at length and it was very easy to actuate and set, and was pretty much dead-nuts-on as far as holding speed through the Smoky Mountains. Ride was nice and smooth and even the pooch was able to snooze most of the time.

2011 Ltd AWD Trip Report: Dallas, TX - Knoxville, TN - Dallas, Tx. Last week my wife and I drove to Knoxville for our nephew's wedding. Was gone about 10 days so there was some incidental mileage while there. Both trips outbound and inbound were straight through, no stop overs. Returned earlier today. Took about 14 hours each leg. Particulars as follows for anyone interested: Total Mileage: 1858.2 Total Gallons Used: 91.31 Total Fuel Cost: $189.07 Average MPG: 20.4 Cost per Mile: 9.83 cents Average Cost per Gallon: $2.07 I was hoping to see a little better MPG but that's what the math says. I did run a bottle of Techron through on each leg (outbound and inbound) and all fill ups were with a top tier gasoline.

Yep, as always. I've settled on the struts (in hand), new strut bearings, strut mount bushings, and the Moog Problem Solver end link kit. I think I will also need strut boots tho. The front end all told will come to about $240 with the great deal I got on the struts. I am very happy about that. I do intend to do rear shocks while I'm at it also. As I said, this job will be a while off but I just could not pass up new KYB struts for $90.

All, I just purchased 2 KYB Excel-G front struts for my '11 Ltd AWD. Bought them from a member here, still in the box brand new both for $85. While I won't be needing them for a while (71k miles currently) it was too good a deal to pass up. In doing some research I have found that it is typical to also do front end links & bushings, strut bearing mounts, bump stops and bellows when doing struts. My question is: Anything else? sway bar bushings maybe? I don't want to get into putting a new front end on it but I just need to know what are the typically ancillary items when doing front struts? I do not intend to do the coil springs. Thanks for any feedback!

Also, if you do spend the $$$ to figure out how to turbo a 3.5L AWD you now have a one-off modded vehicle and no dealer will touch it if you want to trade it at some point. And even in a private sale a buyer might be hesitant to take the chance. I would be. Body mods and maybe even suspension mods are one thing, but a full turbo mod? But if you gotta' have it, go for it. I'd be interested to hear how you do it.

I ordered OEM pre-primed and prepped grille inserts from Fairway Ford. I then ordered a 2oz. bottle of prep solvent, 2 spray cans of Ford Color Code UH (Tux Black), and 1 can of clear coat from Automotivetouchup.com. Prepped, color coated, and clear coated them myself. Total for the job was about $180.00. Took a few days to let the color coats dry and also the clear coat. Looks factory and even had one of the Ford techs comment on it when I had some dealer service done. Take your time, watch some vids, and you can do it yourself with excellent results for less that 1/2 the cost of a shop.

..plus shop mechanix rates factor in any warranty that might be offered. You can do your own brakes and save money but the only warranty you get is the trust you put in your own work.

Ok, wait. Lemme' get this straight... That honeycomb looking thing with the yellow plug in it is the oil pan? And its made of a plastic type material !?? Good golly, is there any real metal in cars anymore??