chefduane

That would look great replacing the ball on a drop hitch. 'Course, prolly get broken off or stolen.

Focusing on monthly payment and not the actual total cost is a car salesman's dream. A dream that way too many folks see turn into a nightmare if they were ever to see an amortization schedule of the actual total cost of an item (or service) financed. A finance guy can make manipulate term, rate, rebates, down payment from a trade, holdbacks, and a host of other parameters to meet a monthly payment that a buyer wants. That's why it's always best to negotiate OTD price FIRST, then discounts from that such as trade, rebates, etc. Then reveal any monies that you will use as a down payment. Most people don't do that and just focus monthly payment.

Eggselent! (See how a worked in a culinary reference there?)

Just got an email notice that autoanything.com is having a 15% off sale on all AVS hood deflectors and window air deflectors. You might check it out. STANDARD DISCLAIMERS APPLY

Same thing happened when I had a set of Goodyear Forteras on my Explorer. Wore out at about 30k miles. Goodyear store gave me a pro-rate on a new set of Wrangler Radials. I'd ask for a pro-rated price on a new set of something else (assuming you go to the same tire store.) You probably will have to stay with a Michelin tire, tho.

I really like the look of the lighted door sills but a little pricey for me. They do look nice, tho.

Chipster, it was the AVS Bugflector II #25065. This one: https://www.amazon.com/auto-ventshade-2065-bugflector-shield/dp/B004INCV3Y

AVS on the hood deflector. Installs easy, great protection, and looks fantastic.

Flush and fill all fluids - oil/filter, coolant, ATF, etc.. Do a suck and fill on the brake reservoir and the PS fluid, new air filter and cabin air filter, and she should be good to go. Jack her up and wiggle her ball joints to she if she shimmies maybe (!). I might run a bottle or two of Techron through at the next few fill ups but other than that........ Enjoy!!

Signing up for this one. I'm, about to do my plugs also and haven't heard about the heat issue and swapping coil packs. Will be interesting to find out!.

PerfA, maybe I am not understanding you. I though laminated windshield glass WAS a sandwich of safety glass held in place with the interlayer of polyvinyl butyral. Are you saying it's a single layer of glass? Is there a misplaced 'not' in your post above?

Baby Moons, brother. Now that was STYLE.

Based on a vid I saw on Mac's utoob channel I got under the Edge and took a peek at my end links F+R, sway bar bushings F+R, and ball joints. I think the previous owner must been pretty easy on it because everything looked nice and tight. Hopefully I won't need any suspension work anytime soon. Next maintenance items are oil/filter change, cabin filter and engine air filter clean, and tire rotation.

60's no, 70's yes. Besides, we old guys just know real style when we see it,

Installed the Red Line Tuning Qwik Lift Plus hood struts. Work like a charm! Nice to not have to mess with the hood prop anymore. Instructions were a bit sketchy but I was able to get them installed reasonably easily. Recommended.

A few months ago I purchased a Red Fuel SL161 lithium ion portable charger and jumper battery. I saw it and I thought it would be a great to add to my on-board bug out kit, and well, because, I wanted it. At the time it was about $50 but now I think they are available for about $35. www.batterychargers.com/sl161 Comes with a few different cables. The unit itself is about the size of two card decks set side by side. Really small unit. I had not had the chance to use it until a few days ago. I was in a parking lot and an older man and his son were trying to get their mid 60's Chevy (Apache 20 or some such) truck started as the battery had died. I approached them and asked them if they would like to use my charger battery as I had never used it before and was interested to see it work. They said sure and I got it out. Both were VERY skeptical of such a small unit being able to successfully jump the truck. After getting it set up correctly and hooked up, the son tried to start the truck. Darned if it didn't start like it had a new battery in it!! Turned right over and started right up. Both of them (and I) were amazed that such a little unit packed so much punch! At any rate, I was very pleased that it worked so well and so easily. I just ordered an accessory cable that connects to the OBD-II port and acts as a memory saver when replacing a battery. That's my review. There are a few bad reviews on the website above and I guess that's understandable. I tend to think that some were due to operator error. All I know is that mine works as advertised and when following the directions for use, operates as described. DISCLAIMER: I state categorically that I do not work for Schumacher Electric, Red Fuel Brands, or any of its associates, and have no interest in any of it's business activities.

Cool sticker?

Welcome! Have some real good friends that live in Tulsa - been there a few times. I tell them that Tulsa is a really, really nice city. They say "We know. Don't tell anybody!!"

Thanks. I noticed that when I went back and looked at my post. Don't know why the whole thing didn't hyperlink.

Autom8tr, thanks for the info! Yes, I was/am most concerned about the 'O' seal at the top of the COP assembly. As I mentioned, it was noted that they sometimes can get damaged pulling out the COP. Rock Auto does not just sell the seal part but sells the seal and the lower boot portion of the COP assy as a set only. I am not sure if I am using the correct terminology but I trust you understand what I am talking about. I guess I will just be very careful about removing the whole COP. re: manifold gaskets - my concern is twofold; 1) I have seen a few video's that recommend removing the manifold to get at the rear bank of plugs. I figured as long as I had it off I would change out the gaskets as they are relatively cheap, and 2) I don't want to pull off the manifold again to do a separate gasket change even if it is a while off. I will not be removing the valve cover so there will be no need for a valve cover gasket. Thanks again for the feedback.

I am going to change my sparkplugs pretty soon on my '11 3.5L (75k miles) and am also going to do upper/lower intake manifold gaskets while I'm at it. My experience with my '98 Explorer was that eventually they dry out and no longer expand as needed so I'm going to do them on the Edge while I have everything disassembled - very cheap preventative maintenance anyway. My question is this - should I go ahead and do the plug boots and seals while I'm at it? I have read that sometimes the seal can lodge itself in the plug recess and be difficult to remove. It can require destroying it to get it out with a coat hanger or a roach clip...err..uh.. hemostat. Rock Auto has the Ford SP520 OEM plug for about $20 a set, the gaskets for $35 for uppers and lowers, but a complete boot and seal set (6) is about $60. I thinking I may go for it simply for the insurance of possibly damaging one or more during extraction. And even if I don't I'll have a new set of boots/seals in there. I'm just interested in some feedback from the group. Thanks!

The founder of Mercy Girl Productions makes an appearance!! She's known to be reclusive and shy about her public persona. (Mac, you know she's gonna' want to get paid scale for this!!)

Installed these backup LEDs today: www.theretrofitsource.com/brand/acme/921-t15-acme-x.html Have to wait till it gets dark to actually check them out but I tested them during install and they seem MUCH brighter than stock. Direct fit and no hassle install. The only caveat is that they can get hot so you have to be aware of extended backing up. We have a circle driveway so it shouldn't be an issue. EDIT: 9:48pm CDT - nice and dark. Wow, for a direct replacement LED these things are really bright! Very happy with them.

Way back when in the days of my yute, I worked at Knott's Berry Farm. My '72 Maverick had slotted and vented brakes. OK, not really.

I checked out the site you mentioned an ESP's are only offered on autos with 41k miles or less. I've got 74k on my '11 Limited AWD. In doing some research I've found that most of the ESP's for higher mileage Edges like mine cost a fortune!