chefduane

Does it matter if it is Helm or Ford as long as it is an accurate and easily used manual? That said, I have no experience with that supplier. The website does say that it is an authorized factory repair manual and looks pretty comprehensive. And for $60 might be a bargain.

That sounds like the next logical step. However, when you say you 'cleaned fuel inlet' does that mean the capless gas filler? Perhaps that might be the issue? But best to proceed with better and more information. I have sometimes fallen into the trap of swapping out parts hoping that the next part will be the solution and ending up spending $100 on a fix that really only was a $10 part. Hope you find the issue.

IIRC the Moog has a zerc so it is greaseable. The Motorcraft doesn't. Also, the Moogs tend to be a bit beefier.

Agree. Prolly can't go wrong with either one. I bought a set of KYB's from a member here for $90 new still in the box. I probably won't need them for another 50k miles or so but it was too good a price to pass up. I'm not sure if I should go with Motorcraft shocks on the rear or buy a pair of KYB's and stay KYB all around. If money is the issue, I agree with PerfA. Go with the Motorcrafts. Can't go wrong.

I feel your pain brother enigma. Changed the oil/filter/coolant/airfilter in my wife's Trailblazer today. Major PITA. Had to remove the right front wheel to get to the filter. I'm on my back under the beast and she steps into the garage and says "Aren't you DONE with that yet!?" Finished up and then mowed the grass. No joke. 24 years - every minute bliss!!

..well, ..I feel somewhat strongly ambivalent about both perspectives, yet upon cursory reflection certainly feel it warrants further study.

Heh, well I'm in Dallas so not too many worries about winter temps! I wonder if it might melt, tho!

Hey I like that idea. I just have one of those square REESE hitch covers on my receiver. But I noted on the listing on Amazon they state "Not a Step." That would be one of the things I WOULD like to use it for. I'd still consider it tho. Have you tested it by stepping up on it at all?

I would give them another call and mention specifically "lemon law" and the words "contacting the Zone Manager." I bet you'll have your car back and fixed within 24 hours.

I stuck one of the bumper protectors on without wetting the suface. You just need to be careful and take your time about placing it. The wetting solution allows you to move it around a bit (as IWRBB suggested) before squeegeeing out the water. Nice bumper protector and looks great, but definitely NOT worth the $$ I paid for it. It might be ok at half the price.

The reason I responded suggesting he go over the blueoval and research it there was >because< I had seen him ask here a few times without a specific answer. But I agree that Uncle Google usually has the answer if you drill down a few pages.

How about going over to www.blueovalfourms.com and asking there? It seems to be populated with some folks that actually work at Ford in Dearborn. Someone there might know.

... trade it in for a Limited.

Bought one of these today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/b017saa78o/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=utf8&psc=1 Car makers have quit putting under hood lights on their cars. Mostly because folks never look under their hoods anymore especially when its dark. I gotta' have a under hood light. Looks pretty bright in the pix. We'll see. Even though it specifies its for a Tacoma its just a led strip with a fused pin switch - should be pretty easy to install.

My wife had a lease on a Lexus LS430 for a while. It held its value so well (and she didn't put a lot of miles on it) that at the end of the lease and after the wear/tear charges, blah, blah, the dealership cut us a check for $1200. No Joke. And, it was the dealership that I bought my Edge from. Park Place Lexus of Plano, TX. Really have no complaints about them.

I have had to use my homeowners insurance 4 times in the last 20 or so years. Each time because I needed a new roof, windows, fence, etc.. due to extensive hail damage. We get NASTY hail here in NTX. Like golfball, walnut size hail, sometimes bigger. It'll actually kill you if you get hit in the head. And the last roof I put on my house was about $25k (I've got different elevations on a big single story). And I probably could come up with $25k if I REALLY needed to, but that's a big chunk of change. So, yes, homeowners is the case where insurance is positively needed. Besides, unless you put up a bond equal to or of great value than your assessed value, isn't homeowners insurance required by law? (don't mean to hijack, just commenting..)

Ingenious little device! Why don't they put one of those on at the factory? Sure would make a lot of things easier. I might consider putting one of those on just because. Great info Enigma.

Perhaps, yes. But I >think< that power to the OBD port keeps SYNC alive and does not affect the servos or electro-mechanicals that control trans operations. I could be wrong on that and more research would be necessary before I'd consider a 4 down tow, but that is how I understand it. With the battery disconnected the drive train system intelligence is non-functioning and therefore a 4 wheel freewheeling tow is safe, but the minder would keep all the SYNC settings. Maybe someone who is better versed on this can provide a better explanation. As I said, I think that's how it operates but I could be wrong.

I bought my previous Explorer after I had it on a Ford Red Carpet lease. It really brought down the purchase payment (in effect, the lease was just long term down payment paid out over 36 mos) and you know the mechanical and service history of the vehicle. You will save the most if you don't finance the remaining balance and pay it off with the money you saved by leasing it in the first place.

Even if it did, you could use a battery system minder with an OBDII cable plugged in and keep the electronics alive.

I don't know if I would tackle actually taking the thing apart and cleaning it out. Too big of a job for me expertise-wise. I've gone the drain, re-fill, drive, drain, re-fill, drive... etc routine until I knew I got clean fluid in there. The plan is to then change out fluid every 20k miles. Maybe overkill on the interval but its easy enough to do.

OK, so this is not an actual TSB, right? This is just a memo to dealer service departments letting them know the possible symptoms and course of action for a 'ticking and/or knocking noise'. Darn, I was hoping to get my PTU overhauled for free. Not that my Edge has developed a ticking or knocking noise.... but if you listen reeeeaaall close....

You'd only be ahead $500 if you >actually< incurred a $2k repair bill. If that never happened, you'd still be $1500 behind. I have purchased probably 8 or so new cars in my life and only once have I incurred a repair bill of $2k. $2300 in fact, for a warranteed 5r55e trans for my Explorer that eventually went 213k miles (and still is going for the new owner). $1500 ESP for 8 cars = $12k - $2300 major repair = $9700 not spent for not buying an ESP. Simplified example sure, but that is why I never buy an extended warranty. Overwhelmingly most of the time you'll never need it. But if you do, you do. I'll take the gamble and save the $12k for IF I have to spend $2300k of it and still am $9700 ahead. But I agree that it basically comes down to personal choice. ADDENDUM: Why do you think that car dealers/manufacturers/service plan companies OFFER Extended Service Plans? Because people need them all the time? No. Because people DON'T need them all the time. Sure, they will pay off a claim when someone files one. But for the one that files a service claim there are thousands that don't, and never will. That's why insurance companies make so much money - because the majority of people DON'T need the insurance they buy, but have been convinced by the insurance company that they do. Just MHO. Of course, my example only is applicable to voluntary purchases of insurance and not insurance required by law.

Just Google "2013 Ford Edge lighted door sills"

Yes.