chefduane

On my '11 3.5 I set my IOLM at 50% which represents 5000 miles. I think 3000 miles is excessive - Its ok to do, its just that oil formulations are designed nowdays to go well beyond that. Heck, even 5k miles might be a bit short. And 10k miles is too long IMO. At any rate, when it hits 50% I the notification and its time for an oil change.

Ditto. That diagram becomes part of my Spark Plug changeout project. Plugs, PCV, upper plenum gaskets, and purge valve are on the agenda. The diagram will help a lot. Tnx.

Larry asks a question about a fairly complex system within the 3.5 and WHAM! A color schematic three dimensional breakdown with a detailed description of the complete lubrication system with part numbers no less. Gotta' love this Forum!! Double ++ Happy Good Good to PerfA.

A&M!?? No Way!! Not no 'Texas' neither, Bubba!! The REAL "UT" is Tennessee!! (Just ask my wife - Tennessee '87) Go Vols!!

AWD or FWD?

Upon researching the Manual , an ajar hood condition will not allow the remote start function to work. Also, if the remote lock/alarm function is invoked while the hood is ajar the vehicle will not lock itself nor arm the alarm and a double chirp will serve as notification of the non-lock/non alarmed condition. That's great, but if the hood is ajar will the car start by someone depressing the ignition button? Dunno. And the Manual doesn't appear to make any mention of that. And, if one is simply driving down the road and the hood accidentally becomes ajar there apparently is no dash indicator for that.

High Mileage Club? Never heard of that. I put 213k on my Explorer and never got into any High Mileage Club. You sure it ain't the Mile High Club?

Yep, the listings stop at 2014. A 2015 query comes up with "No products found for your vehicle." Hopefully they are developing this one as you would think there would be a fairly significant market for them.

AEM DryFlow air filter here. Just take it out, clean it, pop it back in when doing and oil change. I use to take a company car to a Goodyear shop for service. Each time they'd come into the waiting area and tell me that the air filter needed changing. No thanks, I don't need a $35 air filter. NOT TO DISPARAGE GOODYEAR SERVICE - I've used them many times but you just need to be aware of what things actually cost.

Excellent! It's too bad to hear about bad sales experiences at car dealerships when all a customer wants is to be treated fairly, with a little courtesy, and to get a fair deal.

Pedro, hmmm.. good question. I've never noticed a hood ajar indicator on the dash. I'll check it out later today. EDIT: Just went through the manual and it makes no mention of a Hood Ajar indicator on my '11 Limited.

My '11 Limited has MFT with the 8" screen with nav. I don't have Sirius radio tho. Don't care for it as I don't listen to, nor need, that much content. The previous owner had Sirius and MAN, when they (Sirius) find out that the subscription has expired/lapsed they bug the livin' heck out of you to re-subscribe! Phone calls, email, texts, snail mail, jeez.. leave me alone! If I want your product I'll let you know!!

I used the same type of pin switch setup to install a glove box light. Someone asked about pix for that but I never got a round tewit. Should probably post those also.

I thought I had read somewhere that in some later MY Edges Ford had put an access door underneath one of the rear seats to get to the fuel pump. Again, I could be wrong on that. I do know that on the Gen II Explorers the fuel pump was directly below the driver side rear passenger seat and Ford procedure was to drop the tank if the fuel pump needed swapping. Some folks cut a 8" x 8" hole out rather that drop the tank. Then they just replaced the cut out and sealed it up with silicone. Luckily the fuel filter was along the frame rail underneath the drivers door.

If by 'traditional' you mean the canister kind mounted along the frame rail, then yes, Edges do not have a traditional filter. It is integral to the fuel pump which is in the fuel tank itself. I think you have to drop the tank to get to it. Someone correct me on that if a tank drop is not necessary.

Pix of the under hood light I installed today. Pic 1 (top) is of the engine compartment from the drivers side. The LED strip can be seen mounted on the underside of the hood. The plunger/pin switch can be seen on the lower right just in front of the fuse box and just behind one of the façade/shroud bolts. Pic 2 (middle) is of the engine compartment from the front. The LED wires are routed behind the heat shroud and down the right side. I put them through a cable management tube for some protection. It can be seen dropping down from below the heat shield. It runs below the fuse box then up to the pin switch. Pic 3 (bottom) is again of the engine compartment. My finger is on the pin switch. Hot from the LED strip is run through an inline blade fuse connector and directly to 12v. Ground is run to the back of the pin switch. When the pin is depressed (hood closed) the circuit is open and no light. When the hood is raised, the plunger spring raises the pin and is grounded and the circuit is completed. LET THERE BE LIGHT! I had to take some time to adjust the pin switch height to get the hood to close down on it. But I am pretty happy with the results for $25 with wiring, fuse connex and fuse, plunger switch and self adhesive LED strip.

I understand the up to date TSB thing, but I just don't care for subscription services. There are sometimes weeks or months that I don't look in a workshop manual (not the glove box manual, an actual technical manual) and I prefer not to pay a monthly fee for something I am not using at least a few times a month. But to each his own. And I can find recall and TSBs for free online. I paid about $100 for a .pdf Factory Workshop Manual for an '11 Edge. Darn thing is exactly 5166 pages long and covers things I will NEVER inquire about. But I have it when I need it and don't have to pay a monthly fee to use it. And I'll sell it eventually to whomever buys my car when I'm ready to sell it.

Got the under hood light installed today. Gotta' wait till it gets dark to check it out. Had to do a little ciphering on getting the wiring run and the position of the pin switch. The switch is a ground activated switch - when the switch makes a ground the light comes on. Most of the under hood shroud and interior panels are plastic (not complaining - they are pretty solid) and the pin needs to be mounted on a metal surface so when it closes it grounds. The other option was to actually mount a regular switch and just turn it ON when needed. I can always swap the switch out if I want but I think I'm going to like it as is. :happy feet:

PerfA, how would the engine know its been filled with 10w-30 and not 5w-20? Is there a sensor in the car that can detect differences in the viscosity index? And while the spec is 5w-20 would running 10w-30 for 3-5k milez cause significant damage? I wouldn't do it regularly (I run 5w-20 Mobil-1 and a M1 filter) but methinks 10w-30 could not be that damaging in the short term? Could be wrong, tho.

Yeah, probably licensing. Since they do advertise 'authorized' one might hope that Ford verified the content before allowing them to say 'authorized.' I would be interested in a review from Sierra. If it is legit and contains accurate illustrations and is procedurally correct, I might go for it. I have been using a Haynes hardcopy and it is hit or miss.

It says it is a factory authorized manual so one might figure it would be accurate, but you never know for sure. And it seems they've gone to a heck of a lot of trouble (building a website, offering sample pages, Ford authorization, etc..) only to be a bogus operation. Heck, I wish I had a dime for every Haynes or Chilton I've looked in only to find completely and totally inaccurate bs info. I did a cursory check on Google and they have a number of positive reviews so they are probably legit. When you buy a Snickers are you absolutely, positively, sure that there is a Snickers bar inside the wrapper? No. But one can be reasonably assured by representation, past experience, and customer feedback and reviews. EDIT: I posted this comment and then read Sierra's post. So unless Sierra is a factory-manuals.com shill, they are the 'real deal.'