chefduane

Yep, most likely alternator. Check to see if you have any codes. Mine did not throw any codes. But, after a short time my AC stopped blowing cold air and I understand that the system intelligence starts shutting down sub-systems so as not to use any additional current (not sure if explained that correctly, but you get the idea.) New battery for me still did not stop the 'check charging system.' Dealer diagnosed alternator. Also got a new serpentine while they had things apart, you might want to do that also. EDIT: Did you say the notification just goes away, or do you have clear it via the keypad?

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When I first started out I had to figure out which way to turn the crank to get the engine to turn over, it was that long ago.. (jes' kiddin') But MacT's videos are a great help and I suggest you subscribe to his channel. Also, just do a utoob search on something like 'changing brake pads on a ford edge limited' and all kinds of helpful videos will pop up. If you have a laptop, set the laptop next to the wheel and watch and do. You might want to invest in a few tools, a jack, and some jack stands. Safety First! Once you get proficient, a compressor and some air tools can really make jobs go quicker. But take your time, proceed at your own pace, and get to wrenchin!! And Welcome from Plano, TX!

Double scoop Blue Bell Mint & Chip w/ sugar cone. Accept No Substitutes! Next question.

AKirby and June make some good points. I use M1 oil and M1 filters exclusively in my vehicles. There is much debate about which is the best oil, the best filter, etc.. and is the M1 product better than OEM? Debatable. BUT, it makes ME feel better about MY vehicles and that is why > I < do it. And after all > I < am the only one > I < have to please, and yeah, > I < have the extra money to spend on MY vehicle. <harrumph> Now, you kids grab an extra ice cream and run go have some fun on this beautiful Independence Day!

I'll reiterate what June said - Damn good deal! Good job, you must have negotiated pretty well!

I use one of those for my motorcycle battery when I am not going to be riding for a period of time. Seems to work well on the Yuasa battery.

^+1 on that. First thing to do is get all systems (Sync/Nav) up to date and then change out ALL fluids and lubricants. Even though it may have been bought CPO I always change out oil with M-1 and a M-1 filter. Coolant drain/fill, transaxle drain/fill, PTU(if applicable) suck/fill, brake fluid suck/fill, and PS fluid suck/fill. You don't have to do brake or PS fluids complete drain unless they look particularly nasty. I just like to get a benchmark of where I am on all fluids. I use a spreadsheet to track everything and getting everything set from day 1 helps me to keep track. You can check the AC if you think its not cooling acceptably. Mods and upgrades come next, then the 'stuff I just gotta' have' next.

Welcome TFW. We both have '11s - BEST YEAR IMHO (!!!) so.. Tarheels or Wolfpack?

Detroit Axle has kinda' a spotty record IIRC. Some of the guys in the Explorer group really like their products, others said they were crap. (But I suppose that could be said of any product..) Just do your own due diligence on the particular part to see of there are any complaints about that specific unit. One guys said he used their CV axle and it snapped after a few months use. His feedback was that it was a cast axle and not a milled axle. I cannot verify either way but I would think that a milled axle should be standard on a CV axle. (Anyone with machining experience please chime in.) Also, a quick call to Detroit Axle asking them that question should put the issue to bed, eh? At any rate, I hope things turn out ok for you.

I bought my Duracell AGM at Sam's for $169.00. I have one of those battery disconnectors but not installed it as yet. Not really sure if I have a need for it.

Does look good! Also, the Chinese company that I bought the hinge covers from double shipped. So I have an extra set. If anyone is interested you can have them for shipping costs. I am in 75025. PM me here.

I put a set of Monroe coil overs on my Explorer only because I had the dreaded 'explorer butt-sag.' They worked fine but nothing to write home about. And again, I only put them on because they were the cheapest coil over I could find. For a long term DD non-coil over shock, I would not use Monroes.

I was usually getting 4-5 years out of batteries in my 2 previous Explorers. Here in Texas the heat will kill a battery quickly. I just replaced a battery in my Edge due to an alternator problem. I went with an BXT-65-860 AGM. Hopefully it will last a while. EDIT: He's got the same Harbor Freight Battery Charger I have. Nice little unit for about $29.00 w/ coupon, of course.

Installed the Door Hinge Protector/Cover that I described on post #1078. Also got the Edge back from a new alternator and serpentine install, and having new brake booster installed under the 13N02 CSP. All is well.

OK!!! FINALLY got the Edge back today. They did the alternator and serpentine, and a new brake booster that was completed under the 13N02 CSP Extended Warranty. There were also some misc materials charges, etc. The total came out to $944+$77.88tax=$1021.88. Very expensive, I know but as I mentioned previously I did not have the time to do it myself nor the time to wait for parts to come in. Everything is charging fine now and the brakes are excellent with consistent pressure on the pedal required to do a full stop. I did a quick test in a vacant parking lot and they are just peachy. Thanks for all the feedback and your patience during my rants!

I actually painted mine with Tuxedo Black (Color Code UH) and then laid on some clear coat. You can buy new panels already primed and ready for paint. I've never done the plasti-dip thing and just felt more comfortable painting them the exact matching color.

Hey man, I am about to have A LOT of time on my hands.. on Wed I'm going to have a left knee replacement. Already had the right one done. Banged up in college ball and gettin' too fat will do that to ya!! But I'm told that after both knees are bionic I'll be able to run 35mph! Prolly make the metal detector at airport security light up like a Christmas tree! 4 - 5 months of rehab, couch time, and Texas heat!

Why did the chicken cross the road? How could he not? The adrenaline rush he got from dodging all the trucks blew the cholesterol out of his arteries and, for a few intense seconds, he forgot everything else, all his petty troubles. It was a scary moment, but pulling it off for the first time left him with a thrilling memory that would bring him pleasure for years to come. Oh, he'd trained for it, learning about trucks and cars, and the air currents underneath them... why they changed course or speed, and how they worked. And he'd watched for a while, talked to the other road dashers and then made the first crossing facing a slow moving truck on a narrow road. He'd progressed to wider roads and faster trucks and eventually groups of trucks. Some of the old chickens said he was crazy, risking his neck on the bare scorching asphalt, but he knew that some of the young ones secretly dug it, and admired him for his courage. But that was not the main appeal of the dash. It was assessing the risk properly, training and preparing for it, dealing with unexpected problems, and making it to the other side with his feathers intact. The old chickens could never understand this, but he could never understand how they could live a life so devoid of the pure thrill of conquering fears, and overcoming the risk. And that is why the chicken crossed the road. Have a good week everybody! Chef Duane

I will get the Edge back on Monday and I intend to do a thorough investigation of the so-called 'high pressure hose leak.' I am really skeptical about that. As I mentioned I am pretty aware of what's going on as I have my head in the engine compartment fairly regularly. I have never seen or seen evidence of any PS fluid leak. But we'll see.

I will check into the Lucas product once I get the car back and take a look at where this 'leak' is occurring. I'm a bit leery of additives and 'stop leak' products as they sometimes can gum up the works and cause more headaches than the original leak. Although I do know that Lucas products have a good rep and some folks swear by them. I'll see if I can locate some reviews to check out and calm my additive paranoia. Will be nice to get the car back and have everything functioning, especially the rock hard then spongy brake pedal.

Do a search for the thread "Struts - plus what else?" and you should get all the info you need about struts and rear shocks. If you are going to do pads only for brakes you are looking at probably less than $75. I might suggest rotors also but that probably will run about $250 all told. But still a bargain if you do it yourself. As for as part numbers go, that you'll have to research yourself. I have all the info on my 2011 but that might not be exactly the same on your '10 as (I think) 2011 was the year the Gen2 refresh was done. Best of luck!

PerfA, thanks for the comments. I talked to the rep this morning and have authorized the alternator and belts. Also he did confirm that the brake booster will be taken care of under the extended warranty. He stated that the power steering hose was not really leaking that bad and there was only minor seepage from a high pressure connection but that when the service tech sees something like that they recommend the repair (job security, I guess). I do intend to take a look at the Hazard Switch and the PRNDL light myself. As I mentioned, I have some time off coming up. I did not know about Repairpal that you mentioned. Thanks! I will have to check them out. At any rate, I should have the car back probably tomorrow and all should be fine mechanically. The PRNDL light I can probably live without for a while but I do intend to address the Hazard light myself.

Omar, I think you are exactly correct in this case. I sure they saw me as a sucker and clueless as to how the car functions and operates and would readily go along with $3700 in so called 'needed' repairs. Yes, I also think that $680 in labor is extremely high for the alternator and belts. But as I said, I not in a position to do them myself at the moment and I consider it a convenience issue for me. I readily admit that it is simply convenient for me to have the dealer do the repairs. Expensive, but convenient. Having their repairs warranteed is also a cost consideration, but that still does not ameliorate a $944 hit.

Ok, so I dropped the car off at the dealer yesterday for a diagnosis and it did, in fact, turn out to be a bad alternator. I figured it was the alternator but unfortunately I simply do not have the time to do it myself. In a message left for me today the Service Rep stated that the serpentine belt also showed signs of wear and after 76k miles I can understand that. Total for alternator and new serpentine comes to $944. I also requested them to check out the non-functioning hazard switch and PRNDL indicator (yes, it IS supposed to light up.) This is where it gets interesting. The hazard light switch (per his 'service professional and technician's diagnostics') requires the complete dash center fascia to be replaced (including the Sync screen) for a cost of $779. The PRNDL light requires (per the techs assessment) a complete new shifter assembly and center console ("You can't just swap out a bulb, you have to have the complete assembly changed") for a cost of $1121. Then when the tech was under the hood he states he found "a power steering high pressure hose that's leaking." Now, I spend a goodly amount of time underneath my Edge as I do all fluid and filter changes, did a coolant flush and some months ago did a complete brake job with rotors. I am VERY cognizant of ANY fluids leaking anywhere and have not noticed ANY kind of fluid leaks at all. That 'repair' comes to $489. Now, of course his 'service professional's recommendation' based on mileage and year is for ALL fluid changes (coolant, oil, transaxle...) plus throttle and fuel injector service and other miscellaneous BS service. That comes to $352. So the total is a mind bending $3685 that I am just supposed to give the ok for and "they'll get right on it!!" AND, I have been having some of the faulty brake booster issues so I brought in the paperwork for the repair under the extended warranty CPS that was posted here (Thanks Guys!) In his phone message he did not even mention that. I hope that that means it will be covered by extended warranty at no charge. In a return phone message about an hour ago (it is now about 1am in Dallas, and I'm a Chef...I work late hours...) I made it VERY CLEAR that they are NOT authorized to complete ANY work until I get a definitive answer on the brake booster repair, and I emphasized that they will not be authorized to do ANY fluid services, flush/fills, throttle body/fuel injector service, etc. I have not as yet, but will most likely authorize the new alternator and serpentine work as I simply do not have the time to do them myself. (I am also about to have a new knee installed in a few days and most likely will not be in the mood to be doing any auto repairs!!) I have purchased cars from this dealership (5 Star Ford of Plano, TX) and felt I've gotten a good deal. I've had service done and never felt I've been ripped off. But this time I am astounded by the temerity of the Service Rep, the Technician, and the Service Department in general. After the alternator, serpentine, and brake booster repairs are completed, I will NEVER set foot in their service bay again. Comments and feedback welcomed.