chefduane

WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a water displacement substance. If you do find a way to lube it, I would suggest a silicone spray of some type or white lithium if you can get it in there.

Mac, thanks for posting this in the group. I don't do Facebook so this is my only way of viewing them.

Yes, the only reason I go with M1 oil and filter is it gives me an enhanced feeling of well being. Placebo effect as such, and I psychologically rationalize the added expense by allowing myself to believe the M1+M1 filter is the best combo for my car. Is it >really< that much better than a blend with a good filter? Prolly not. But I feel better about doing it. Regular oil changes at reasonable intervals is the key, not necessarily the type of oil/filter used.

Here in Texas it can get 100+ in the summer and then snow a few times in the winter. Certainly not like Canada of course, but freezing temps none-the-less. I use 5w-20 Mobil-1 year round with a Mobil-1 Extended Performance filter changed at 5k intervals. No problems, leaks, etc.. here. I agree with the comments about changing from pure dino to a full synth can cause problems with some higher mileage engines (dislodge gunk, leaks, etc..) but if the engine has had regular oil changes with a good quality (dino, blend, or synth) oil you should have no problems. You also might check 'bobistheoilguy.com' for additional information. That site is pretty much the 'go to' net source for oil info. And this group of course.

My experience is the same as AK's. My 3.5 is a bit slow off the line but I have no problems accelerating from higher RPMs. As long as you stay in front of the power curve, the 3.5 is very responsive in all rpm bands except lower rpms. I have never tried the manual shift mode off the line so maybe that might help.

+1 on the heat. Texas heat can kill a battery right quick! Mine is 850CCA AGM.

Mac, new type of Filter Minder? I have the one that lays flat on the airbox and has the dial type read out. Is that one more accurate than the dial type? PS: You shoulda' bought the Lambo.

Got the Edge back this aft (that was quick!). From the Invoice "DTC U3000:41 present. Performed PMI on RCM and ABS Modules. Performed IVD Sequence and cleared codes. Test drive OK, Retest OK, Battery OK." Now, I don't know what all that means but everything seems to be back to normal now other than my wallet being $270.00 lighter.

Dropped the Edge off at the dealer today to diagnose above listed problems. I also p[roved a copy of the PCM flash TSB and he service rep seemed to know about it and was familiar with the issue. Hopefully that it all it is but we'll see. $135 'diagnostic' charge so I'm into it for that already.

Thanks AK. I just needed some assurance (second opinion). Prolly drop it at the dealer on Friday or Monday. Still off until end of Sept with knee rehab.

Any feedback on if it is ok to drive in this condition? I'm thinking yes, albeit the ABS and traction control is non-functional. I figure I'll just take it easy for a day or two 'till I can get it to the dealer.

I may try the battery disconnect test first just to see if that clears anything. In Re; low battery. I've already replaced the battery 2 months ago and when *that* battery was going out I got a "Low Charging" warning and no "Advance Trac" warning. If *this* battery was loosing charge would I not see a similar warning ie "Low Charge"? Also, can I not check the battery with a simple VOM? What is a BA7 going to tell me that a VOM won't?

I have the same setup as you, Mac. AEM Dryflo filter - no K&N, no oiled filter. I don't think it could be the MAF as I cleaned it when I purchased the vehicle at 65k miles. I'll check it tomorrow but I assume it is plugged in and functioning. Follow up question: Do you think it would be OK to drive it in this condition? Nothing seems amiss and it drives fine. I need to use it for a day or so until I can get it to the dealer but I don't want to risk any damage.

Reminds me of a story... if I may... Way back in the dark ages when I was but a lad, my cousin Carol (in high school) dated a garbage man. Not the kind that stays in the cab and the truck does all the work, but a bonafide riding the back of the truck throwing the cans garbage man. Honest work to-be-sure but nasty! Dude stunk all the time. But she loved the guy. My aunt and uncle did NOT approve. Well, 35 years later they have 3 great kids and the guy runs the whole region and is probably pulling down $150k+. Nice house, livin' the dream. My aunt and uncle now say that they knew he was a great guy right from the start! Go figure.

Replaced the battery in June with a BXT-65-850 AGM so I'm thinking its not that. I did read something about disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting. Have not done that as yet. I also came across TSB 13-1-15 that concerns exactly what my symptoms are. Requires a PCM update to IDS Release 83.01 or higher. If I do have to take to a dealer shop perhaps that might clear the issue. Anyone have an idea how much a PCM reflash co$t$? I am out of warranty.

Ok so I don't know what is going on.... the particlulars: 2011 AWD Limited, 75k miles, brake booster retro done at dealer 2 mos ago.. no other issues. Got in and started the car this morning and received a "Sync Update" message on the center screen. Ok, no problem, happy that Sync is being updated. All was well until the next shutdown and startup. Upon the second startup I got an "Advance Trac Warning" indicator on the left info screen. Simultaneous with that was the "ABS" indicator, the traction control indicator (the little vehicle with the squiggly lines underneath), and the traction control indicator (same as the one previous mentioned) with "OFF" underneath it. I cleared the "Adv Trac" warning but the other indicators have stayed on. The "Adv Trac" warning came on again after another shutdown and startup. The manual makes no mention of possible issues other than to inform the reader to 'have the system checked at a dealer' if those warning appear. I have checked the underhood fuses and all are ok - #5 ABS Pump, #43 ABS Valves, and #92 ABS Module. There are no fuses/relays listed that make mention of the 'Traction Control' or 'Advance Trac' systems. I tried to pull codes with my OBDII scanner and there are no codes. None. I even "Cleared All Codes" just to make sure and I still get the warning indicators. I don't know if the Sync Update has anything to do with the warnings appearing, maybe its just a coincidence. Before I take it in to the dealer and bend over, does anyone have any suggestions or feedback on any other diagnostics that I can do? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

Today I had the "oldies station" on. They played "One Less Bell to Answer" by Marilyn McCoo and the original 5th Dimension. I know y'all may give me a hard time about it, but I really liked it. Really a great tune.

I have a similar setup; AEM filter w/ the filter minder. I don't intend to let it go that many miles but now I know how far it CAN go without a cleaning. I'll probably clean it every other oil change or so. I'm currently doing 5k oil changes so 10k-15k sounds about right. It sure would be nice to get 150k-200k out of my Edge also!!

I plan my trips to make all right turns. Never had this issue.

Why didn't you just buy a newer Honda Element? Did you test drive the base Edge before you bought it? Sounds like a case of not doing your homework before you purchased leading to buyers remorse. Hope you get things fixed they way you like them.

...not sure if I'm completely comfortable reading a post with the words 'vaseline', 'sliding', and 'bed' used.

Buna ziua din Texas, USA!!

Dippity-Do.

Absolutely perfect and excellent choice. Well Done!!

I like that black hood accent on the silver! When I lived out there we would cruise up Angeles Crest Highway over to Wrightwood then down through San Berdo back to OC. Great fun until all the crotch rockets took over. (...bet those hinge covers looked good up on Mulholland!)