chefduane

Same exact symptoms I had. Notifications that things are 'shutting down to preserve charging system.' Eventually most systems start to shut down while driving or simply do not power up at all. Got a new 850CCA AGM - same symptoms. Yep, bad alternator. Got a new alternator and now everything is fine as of June.

This is great info and pretty much what I was looking for. Thanks roots! I just wanted to make sure I could reverse everything and go back to the as-built OEM config. But, can one built a configuration off-line and then do an upload to the vehicle? I am still unsure as to that capability.

A list would be helpful but not imperative. But do I have a few questions if you don't mind... 1) I have the forscan software downloaded but do not have a forscan/OBDII hardware device. I've seen them on Amazon and they have wireless, wired, and many different brands, etc.. any recommendation on which particular one to get? I use a desktop computer but my wife has a wireless enabled laptop that I could use. But I also understand that there is also an interface to Android. Just wondering if there were any advantages one over the other. 2) If you do a forscan mod I assume there is a way to go back to original config? Is there a methodology whereby you can have forscan changes saved as a module and then change them en masse? Meaning; Mod1 is 5 blinks+puddle light 10 sec delay+interior light delay.. etc, and Mod2 is 3 blinks+no puddle light delay... etc. Then you can just load each module and the changes are made wholesale. 3) Similarly to #2, can you save the default factory settings as an individual mod and then if you ever want to revert back to default settings (like selling or trading the vehicle) you just load that one up and everything is back to factory? 4) If you go overboard on mods and happen to change something you shouldn't is there the possibility of 'bricking the machine'? Meaning; can you really screw something up and not have a way to reverse it? 5) Lastly, if there is an issue with Sync/MFT that requires a dealer visit will a dealer give your grief about changes you have made. Might they refuse to work on the car? Thanks for any feedback. I am just getting interested in forscan modding and might like to implement some. Thanks! MODS: I do not want to hijack the thread and can start a new one elsewhere if needed. I just didn't know where to put this.

Welcome from Texas!!

Look, at some point you gotta' start helping yourself. So climb under the car and look for a petcock, drain the fluid, and put new in. After that, pull the oil pan plug and let the oil drain, then take the filter off and replace it with a new one. Refill with any oil you want, use 3-in-1 oil if you so desire. The go get some gas. You do know how to do that, right? And with that, I am done with this thread. And that ain't no joke.

There are numerous posts about doing coolant drain and fills. You can search here or on utoob and find them. It just involves pulling the cover off the reservoir and radiator and then opening the petcock below the radiator and letting the radiator drain. If your Edge doesn't have a petcock you just pull the lower radiator hose. It doesn't get ALL the coolant as there will still be some captured on the water jacket galleries and maybe the water pump. You could get one of those flush kits at a auto parts store if you like. DO NOT let the fluid drain on to the street or pavement. It is a pollutant and should be recycled the same as oil. It is also very toxic to animals and pets, especially dogs. It might be helpful to go an autoparts store and just look around to get yourself familiar with what's available. After a complete flush and fill, then simple drain and fills would be fine. But again, the key is regular changes. You are in the middle of the learning curve and some things you just have to start doing to learn them. I also might suggest buying a good manual for your car. Do you have one? Many questions can be answered there. Haynes or Chiltons are good ones for basic reference and they have pictures of most all procedure you want to do. English is my native language although I am also fluent in Spanish and speak some culinary French. PerfA: Thanks for the location of the blinker fluid tank (above the cranium.) Umm... so where might the cranium be located?

A coolant change is not something to agonize over. A simple drain and fill (with appropriate fluid of course) on a regular basis works wonders and is something that few car owners ever actually do. Hmmm... oil changes on a regular interval, coolant flush/fill on a regular interval. Transaxle/PTU drain/fill intervals very important for AWD's. Are we seeing a pattern here? Regular interval maintenance is the key to vehicle longevity. Heck, I even suck out my brake and PS fluid once a year and re-fill the reservoir just because. Still looking for the blinker fluid tank, tho.

I just re-read OP post and agree with Omar. I recently had a battery fail (Texas heat can kill a battery) and one of the symptoms was Sync displaying the shutdown message. Installed new battery and problem solved. I would do a quick check on your battery before doing anything about the APIM. Good catch Omar.

Were they talking about this? https://ford.oemdtc.com/1745/12m02-warranty-extension-covering-accessory-protocol-interface-module-apim-software-and-hardware-2011-2014-ford-lincoln

Sometimes it can make sense to take advantage of any financing incentives (rebates, low rates, etc) and >then< pay off the balance after 2 months or so.

I don't even know if the stuff is still around! I do know that my dad used it in old Chevy Apache 20 we had. I think a quart was like $1.25. After he drained it out of the truck I'd use it in my mini-bike. The Briggs & Stratton 3hp cord puller really ate it up!! http://raylube.com

^ +1 Just use a good quality oil and filter and change it regularly. Heck, if you changed them both every 3000 miles even RayLube might be ok.

Make sure you do your homework on the PTU if you decide to go with an AWD. There are numerous posts about what to look for.

Looking forward to the vid removing the power liftgate lift.

No, its not about you. It was an effort at humor. All I was trying to get across was that you can do homework until the cows come home but at some point you just gotta' make a choice. Information is a good thing but don't work yourself into 'analysis paralysis.' The general consensus is a blend or full synth 0w20 or 5w20, a good filter (recommendations above), with changes done regularly should be fine. PS Its an animated .gif. Click on it (if u have not) and it might clear things up.

^ Bad strut mount bearings? Tightening them up may ameliorate the sound but the problem would eventually return, I think.

What the heck is a 'brake caliper spindle'?

Thus speaketh The Wiz and doubt not His counsel.

I did not know that the turbo models HAD and intercooler. I learned something today! Thanks!

That site also states that the 0w20 meets or exceeds the Ford WSS-M2C947-A and has a pour point spec of -54C. The 5w20 lists a pour point spec of -42C. Unless winter temps are consistently below that for extended periods of time, I would think that 5w20 year round would be just fine. Or am I missing something?

Congrats on the new ride! I actually did have an Uncle Louie many years ago - my father's bother. Great guy, smoked a pipe. Drove a '58 Olds.

The Mobil-1 website explicitly states that their 5W20 Extended Performance it meets Ford's WSS-M2C945-A and WSS-M2C930-A specifications. Where did you see that it did not? https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-extended-performance

Yep, got the same kit on my '11. Have about 8500 miles on them so far and no problems or complaints whatsoever. I'd be interested to find out where you got them. I only paid $218 for the same setup from AutoAnything. $300 does not sound like a sale price. EDIT: Correction: You got the K5452 Z23 set. I went with the KOE5452 OEM set. I did not get the drilled/slotted rotors. PowerStop KOE5452 F+R Kit.ppt

Why have I never heard of Fluid Film before? Googled it - looks like pretty good stuff. Don't recall seeing it at my local O'Reilly's or AZ but I wasn't really looking for it. I'll have to check it out.

Ran a Vehicle Health Report just for the heck of it. Found out there was a Field Service Action on the APIM that extends the warranty period for MY's '11-'14. FSA #12M02. I just had my Edge in for service so I assume this was checked but probably not. Regardless, I've had no APIM issues but those that do may want to check this out. Also, got a weird "Brake Service Check" on the Brake Warning and Parking Brake Warning lights. Says to bring the car in for service or check brake fluid level. Level looks good and again, I just had it in for service (Trac Cntl, and Brake Service lights were lit) and all is well. Maybe they just didn't reset the warning flag. I did an OBDII and there are no codes. I think I'll just keep an eye on it as I have no brake issues and a quick underneath check shows no fluid anywhere. That is all.