chefduane

Well I noticed that the backup warning indicator lines have suddenly disappeared from my backup cam view. I did the "home-tools-camera-rear warning lines-on/off" toggle to no avail. Not sure what the deal is. It doesn't bother me that much but it would be nice to have everything functioning properly. Hmph.

Roots, I doubted your post of a 2+ ton vehicle then I looked up the GVCW for the Gen II and you are correct, Sir. The FWD goes 3912lbs and the AWD is 4060lbs. I had no idea that the Gen II's were that heavy! Putting a few groceries and my butt in the seat definitely brings it way past 2 tons.

I live in the 'burbs and commute into Dallas. About 50 miles round trip. So far about 25k miles on my set of new rotors and brakes and everything seems solid with xlnt stopping power. But I really don't think I'll get 100k out of them.

When I lived in SF (on Franklin btw Washington and Jackson) I had a '92 Explorer and I used to go to a little shop out on the Avenues. Probly no longer there as it was 20 years ago. Don't know where you are exactly where you are located but South City has a lot of independent auto shops, maybe you could find one around there. Best of Luck!!

Yikes!! That would be a PITA!

I changed an oil pan on my '98 after the original started leaking. It was a metal one but by all references I read it is very important to torque to bolts down equally and in proper sequence. The gasket has to seat appropriately and not bulge out on one side or t'other. My bet is that the techs at Ford just torque down each bolt to whatever the airgun is set to and simply around clockwise (or counter-clockwise) and don't care too much about sequence or snugging it up gently. Remember, techs get a bump on how many cars they process through the service department. And with a plastic (or whatever) oil pan, I'm thinking a hasty install can lead to over-torque cracking, stripped bolt holes, and all kinds of gasket leak issues. My Edge Limited AWD so far has runs, drips, or errors. If at some point I have to change out an oil pan, I'm doing it myself. Just my $.02. Take it for what its worth.

I had my local Goodyear Service Center do a suck and refill (been going there for years) for $80. I brought in Motorcraft 75w-140 Synth and they had no problem changing it. I'm going 20k intervals.

Shouldn't everything that you had turned on before you shut the ignition off come back on when you start the car. IE: turn the heated mirrors on before you shut down and they come on at next start up. Maybe I am missing something but I thought that's how remote start works. I've never really checked if the side mirror heaters come on. This is Texas, don't really need them.

So he can post utoob vids blasting it when driving through mall parking lots and scaring cute girls!! C'mon! Why >else< would you want a train horn!?

Good point about Texas, also MacT's point about the condensation drain is worth checking out. I blew out mine some months ago and was surprised at the amount of yuck gets trapped in there. I do have a K+N re-usable cabin filter and I really can't say if it works any better that any AutoZone, Motorcarft, or O'Reilly filter. I paid $40 for it and a replaceable filter is, what, $12-$14? So prolly after 4 changes or so it pays for itself. I just like the re-usablility and if you use the correct cleaning solution you get a nice, fresh, smell after cleaning it. I also use an AEM re-usable air filter. I'm just a re-usable filter kinda' guy!

^ Actually not bad at all. Much better that some of the garage crap that passes as rock-n-roll these days. Great solo.

A gas cap (locking or not) would keep most, but not all, dust and debris out of the filler neck. A locking cap accomplishes that and locks also. The cap I have completely covers the filler neck and tube flap. Best of both worlds. Plus I have the sense of well being that some young whippersnapper won't pee or put sugar in my tank, gollygarshdadgummit!

^ This is correct. My '11 Limited has heating but no cooling and has the traditional 'heating pad' type warming device.

If the filler neck isn't sealing properly that may throw a code. I also have a locking cap on the capless filler. I'm an old school guy - I gotta' have a locking gas cap. Just feels weird not to have one.

No screws in my '11. Just drop the box with the side tabs. Re: dash squeaks - check the glove box rubber stops. My glove box was rattling and I finally narrowed it down to the rubber door stoppers. Replaced them and now nice and quiet. You probably could add an additional rubber 'foot' on the door also to make it seat a little tighter.

Had the issue on my '11. Did some research here, got a copy of the TSB, and informed them I was having the exact symptoms as described in the TSB. Booster was swapped out and problem solved. It pays to go to the dealer armed with valid information.

The AVS secures from underneath the hood lip with self-tapping screws, and I suppose you could remove it but kind of a PITA.

AVS on my '11. Not a '15+ but still.....

I have found just the opposite on my '11 Limited. No low end but once she's spun up and ahead of the power curve, plenty of passing power. She actually winds out pretty good for non-turbo'd engine.

Changed oil and filter. Mobil-1 5w20 and a K&N Performance filter. I usually go with a M-1 filter but I liked the idea of the 1" wrench off design. Easy on, easy off. Also cleaned the AEM DryFlo air filter. MAKE SURE IT DRIES WELL BEFORE RE-INSTALLING IT!!

After all the initial fluid/maintenance items listed above, here are the intervals that I follow: 5k miles: oil/filter, rotate tires, check/top fluid levels, clean air filter (I have a K&N). 20k miles: change PTU oil, clean cabin air filter (also a K&N), 30k miles: coolant flush/fill, ATF flush/fill, 50k miles: rear differential (RDU) flush/fill, PS fluid suck/refill, Brake fluid suck/refill. Oil and filter are Mobil-1. This might be a little overkill but it's what works for me and what I an comfortable with.

I had an UltraGauge on my Explorer. It will provide trans temps. A WiFi OBD link to an app sounds like a lot more convenient, tho!

I live in Plano, TX. and on a trip to see the in-laws I had some warranty work done in a dealership in Knoxville, TN. No questions, no problems. Once they verified I was still under warranty they took care of it.

I had that in my previous Explorer and it was very cool.

Pedro, I have not found any later supplement that would extend coverage. I have not been having any APIM issues and I hope I never do. Keeping my fingers crossed.