chefduane

Nobody interested in a set of '11 brakes?

All, I have not been active for a while here due to unforeseen circumstances. Regardless, I have a new-in-box set of PowerStop Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber Ceramic Performance brake pads for the front and rear that fit a 2011 Edge Limited w/ the 3.5L. See attached pdf for the purchase info from Rock Auto. I paid $109.77 total with shipping for them. I just never got around to putting them on and I recently sold the vehicle. Shoot me a reasonable offer for the set and you pay the shipping. I'm in Plano, Texas, if you want to calculate shipping to your location. You can contact me here or at 'chefduane@twc.com' Thanks! Duane Edge Brakes.pdf

I've had them on for a few years now and have had no problems with them. No rust issues and they still hold the hood up just fine. No worries.

Hey thanks for the response. I went ahead and gently removed all the blue paint from the emblem with progressively finer steel wool but they are still some swirl marks there if you look closely. I like the idea of the overlay. Thanks!! Duane

2011 Edge Limited AWD 123,600 miles in great shape; I would like to completely remove the blue paint from my front grille badge and just go with an unfinished badge. All the clear plastic cover has chipped off and about 3/4 of the blue paint has eroded away. I have tried a number of chemicals to strip the rest of the paint (yes, I was careful not to spill on any other surfaces) to no avail. I have not yet tried acetone so maybe that will work. Short of that, and without resorting to using steel wool on it, anyone have any ideas on how to remove the paint? Maybe a Naval Jelly type actual paint remover?? I want to try to avoid removing the bumper/grill just to remove the badge. Having done it a few times before I just want to avoid the hassle and simply paint strip the badge. Thanks for any responses! Duane

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Didn't get the Wiper Arm Assy and Lisle Terminal Puller until today. But... worked like a charm. Got the broken arm off with the puller and the new one went on smoothly. Tightened down with new blade and all is well. I love it when a plan comes together! Thanks to all for the feedback and thanks to Omar for the advice on the puller. Duane

Omar, thanks. Yep, that's the ticket. Ordered one from Amazon Prime. Should be here on New Years Day! Thanks again and Happy New Year! Duane

2011 Limited AWD Is there some special trick I need to know about removing the rear wiper arm? I need to swap it out and have removed the shroud and the 13mm nut holding the arm on but it will NOT budge off the stud. Perhaps it is just seized on the stud and some break free is needed? I have tried to pry up the arm and it pulls up the whole stud assy that penetrates the window to the motor assy? Anybody got any tips? Should the arm just lift off the stud? What am I missing? Thanks for any feedback and Happy New Year! Chef Duane ]

Well I reset the Parking Aid Module and the reconfiguration passed. Unfortunately now when I go run a Forscan scan there is no option to Reset Backup Camera. It has disappeared. I guess I am destined for a $2000 dealer camera installation. Weird thing is that the camera works just fine, its just upside down. If I could find a way to rotate the camera lens 180 degrees, I would. Then be done with it. Also, I assume that I am on Sync 3 as I have an '11 Limited with all bells and whistles. It keeps asking me what Sync version I am on. Thanks again for any information/suggestions you might offer. Duane

Everything is stock. I'll try your suggestion. Thanks for responding!

Anyone, anyone? Bueller, Bueller??

2011 Edge LTD. So my backup cam has gone upside down again and I am (trying) to (once again) reset it with FORSCAN. However, now Forscan only gets to 8% and then says "Reconfiguration aborted. Please run Self-Test to reset trouble codes." Well, I have reset every freaking trouble code that I had multiple times. There are no DTC's in ANY modules, but I still get the same error message. What am I not doing correctly? Is there some other 'Self-Test' somewhere that I should be running?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Has anyone found a source for a camera that works that is not the $350 Ford OEM camera?

Wow. Thanks for the info on the key blanks! Just ordered a set!

OK, so I watched a MacT video and found out how to get into the car and get it started. THANK YOU MacT for the instructional vid. I guess I'll visit my dealer tomorrow and figure out what's going on. One other question... I noticed on one of my fobs the 'secret key' that is enclosed in the back of the fob is missing. Is that something that has to be replaced by the dealer or can one be found more easily? Thanks for any info!!

So I've got a problem here.... Seems that both keyfobs quit working but not at the same time. I was doing an oil change when one of them quit working. I figured it was the fob battery so I got the other keyfob and it worked fine. Got the oil changed and then did a few errands like buying new fob batteries. I get home and change the batteries in both fobs and now neither of them work! I know how to change a battery so that is not the issue. I even put back in the old battery so see if that was the issue. Nope. So now I have 2 non-functioning fobs with no way to get into my car. I have no clue as to what the digit code is in the door pad to open it up that way either. Any suggestions??

I used Timkens in my 4x Explorer. Changed them at about 100k and got another 113k. No problems. I've used Moog Problem Solver upper and lower Control Arms also on the Explorer with no problems but no experience with hub assy's. Good Luck.

So here is the response I got from K&N. A no answer answer. Looks likes it is a K&N filter just reconfigured. ====================================================================================== Hello, The filter you purchased is a true K&N. The differences in the amount of holes will not cause any performance concerns. All K&N oil filters are designed to meet or exceed OEM specs. Thank you, K&N Customer Service & Tech Support tech@knfilters.com http://www.knfilters.com Phone: (800) 858-3333

It worked well enough for me in the past in that my car did not blow up and I don't feel the need to tear the engine down to check for wear. So I'll continue to buy them.

Well of course my engine didn't blow up because then I would obviously not be posting about buying a new oil filter for it. Silly. "Worked well for me in the past" means that it performed as good as or better than any other similarly priced filter and my opinion is that it provides solid value for my money. And that is all that really matters. And yes, the easy on/off nut does play a part in my purchase decision.

Reasonable point. But K&N has worked well for me in the past, is highly rated (maybe not the best, but certainly not the worst) and I REALLY like the 1" nut that they put on the filter body. It makes screw on/off MUCH easier. K&N is probably as good as any out there given my oil change interval (5K miles) and the easy on/easy off is quite convenient. As I've said, my philosophy is using a quality oil (Mobil-1) with a quality filter (K&N) and (here's the important part) changing it at regular intervals is more important than any quest for the perfect oil and filter combination. (Did I mention that K&N has a 1" on the bottom of the filter for super easy changing?)

I can't really tell much by looking into the filter. I sent an email off to K&N to see if they might be able to provide some info on the differences. More than likely its what you mentioned (different manu locations) but I would still like to hear directly from K&N. Thanks for the response.

I posted this here because my Edge is a '11 AWD Limited but it doesn't necessarily have to do with the specific vehicle. I recently went to Walmart and bought a couple of K&N oil filters - same maker, same Part Number, to do an upcoming 100k oil/filter change on my Edge. See pix below. The filters have slightly different logos on them but the dimensions are the same. The thing that is interesting to me is the differing configurations of the base plate holes. Is this a standard thing that oil filter makers do? Should I be worried about getting a counterfeit filter? Anybody have any idea why there is a difference? Thanks for any info!