junehhan

I honestly could not tell you, but the rotors do not appear to show signs of uneven pad wear. If there is a caliper piston issue, usually you can tell when you do a hard brake as well and I am getting no indication that is the case. The problem is that my work schedule is hectic and the dealer being 4 hours away does not help.

Here is what is written on the repair receipt. HEAR NOISE COMING FROM CALIPER. PERFORMED FRONT BRAKE INSPECTION, LUBRICATED PADS, SLIDES, AND RETAINER SPRING, TEST DROVE, VERIFIED REPAIR. Here is the problem is that 240 miles later, it is starting to do it again. It is quieter than it was, but that was how it started the first time. I made another appointment to take the car back in on August 14th. I noticed it doing it again as I was pulling into the Dairy Queen and heard it starting to click away as I was rounding the drive thru.

Ok, so the dealer called and said that they solved the noise by lubricating a brake caliper spindle. If this solves the issue, then my concern is whether it will pop up again.

I saw that thread too, but I just love it when people post a problem and never come back to give an update. I am heading back to my home in Cincinnati this weekend and will try whipping out the old Sears torque wrench and try tightening the lug nuts to see if that could be it. If I am not mistaken, the lug nuts on our Edge seem to need torqued higher than many vehicles typically are. Since I will be back in Eastern KY again, I cannot stop by the dealership while I am up there.

Thanks for the link. I took a look at that thread when it popped up during a Bing search. It is from way back in 2008 so I figured that it wouldn't apply to my 2016 and these 21's. The only thing relatively modern I could find was a similar issue on the Explorer related to issues with some sort of hub bearing between the hub and halfshaft.

Out of curiosity, has anyone here had any experience with this? Recently, my 2016 Sport has started making a clicking or clacking noise when turning. It makes no difference whether I am going forward or in reverse. It almost sounds like the type of clicking you get when a CV joint is going out, but I am currently convinced that it is not CV joint related. It is worse when turning sharp to the right but does it when turning left as well. The noise appears to be equal and bilateral in volume, intensity, and proportional to the speed. I have tried gunning it with the steering wheel turned sharp and the clicking/clacking is no worse which leads me to believe the CV joints are not involved. It would also be extremely rare that both CV joints would be having issues at the same time as CV joints are typically very reliable and durable these days. I have 23k miles and the factory 21's with the stock Pirellis. I am trying to determine whether I should be worried or not as my Ford dealer is 4 hours away. I now live in the mountains of Eastern KY.

Pretty much. The speed limit is 55 but the problem is the speed differential. You have these people who are hell bent on going 45-50 in a 55 and then you have nearly everyone else that is hell bent on going 70+. Even the semis and dump trucks scream through at the highest speeds they can manage which makes me nervous at times. I upset the balance because I try to go 60-62mph except for the downhill grades where I let gravity do the work. I have had people scream past me at the bottom of some of the grades even though gravity had gotten me to 80mph. The upside is that the scenery is absolutely beautiful no matter where you go here in Eastern KY and the people are so nice everywhere you go with that famous Appalachian hospitality. The people are why I have fallen in love with this region as it is so different from the city.

In response to running without a filter, Road and Track was testing a modified tuner Viper many years ago and the engine got ruined during testing because the tuner who supplied the Viper decided not to run a filter in it for the testing session. Likewise, this is why I am a huge critic of oiled filters like K&N's. They have really bad filtering efficiency which means that you are going to get larger particles making it through and more of them versus a standard paper filter. That is why many people here are running paper performance and paper conical filters instead of the oiled gauze filters like the K&N and S&B's While they won't let in anything big enough to destroy the engine immediately, it can take its toll on the engine and turbos over time. Numerous third party tests have been done and they show that those oiled filters actually have worse flow once they start accumulating dirt. K&N has also been busted before overstating HP gains. As Alan said, you may be lucky to even gain those couple hp. Just because the factory intake has all sorts of baffles and weirdness to silence induction noise does not mean that it is horribly restrictive. Noise is just noise.

You guys should come to Eastern KY. You would probably cry at how bad fuel economy can get as it is up and down really steep grades everywhere you go. Also no gentle acceleration as you are constantly nailing the hell out of your gas pedal in order to pass the next logging or dump truck before the uphill grade ends and the truck lane ends. I must go WOT at least 5-6 times a day. You also nail the gas going downhill at times to get out of the way of those same semis as they scream down using Georgia overdrive to build up speed for the next uphill climb. I can average 28.5mpg on flat highway travel going 68-72mph, but I have been seeing low teens lately. My paint job has also gone to hell as I am constantly getting blasted by gravel.

Would that be imperial mpg's or US gallon MPG's? In order to obtain that kind of fuel economy for that distance, drafting could help but you may have also had a slight downhill grade that cannot be perceived. Also drafting generally only works if you are following dangerously or even recklessly close to a semi so that you are inside the vacuum before the turbulence zone that is behind any large fast moving object. Not a very good place to be as you would be unable to see around the semi in order to anticipate evasive maneuvering and would also be a good place to pick up some good chips in the paint and window from rocks being thrown straight at you by the wheels. This is why many RV'ers with diesel pushers destroy the paint and windows on any vehicle they may be flat towing behind them.

I cannot remember, but doesn't a tune run a little more boost? I wonder if a pressure spike caused some sort of freak condition.

Correct. Ford only recently started switching to a twin scroll turbo on their new 2.0 and 2.3's. I do not even think a twin scroll twin turbo system is possible on a V6 configuration. There is probably more drive by wire electronic throttle body lag if anything for those of us who grew up on mechanical throttle bodies in everything.

That is a damn good deal! I paid $45k for mine last year when local demand for these Sports was very strong and they were flying off the lots.

Well then, it is a good thing that I cannot afford the $2.5M pricetag for the Bugatti Veyron. For a vehicle like the Edge Sport, the cost of 21's are pretty insane. I am getting ready to move to rural Eastern KY and am considering getting a set of 18's with all terrain tires. They are a fraction of the cost of replacement 21's which will continue to serve during the seasons when it isn't snowing or icing.

Glad you got it resolved! This adaptive ratio steering system is pretty neat once you get used to it versus the traditional fixed ratio system. Do you guys also get the 2.7 litre Ecoboost in the Sport in England?