Beezz

Ive had the same kit sitting for 2 months in the garage, no damn time to install. Plan to do brake fluid, ss lines, rear swaybar, F/R links, caliper covers, and winter tire swap all at the same time. Any tips for the install? Any issues with the install? Did your pads have any chipping on them? I ordered 2 sets of front and rear pads and the fronts both have chipping. (ordered everything from rock auto) Thanks!

For anyone not in the United States purchase from here: https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/motors/collars/power-transmission-collars/metric-two-piece-clamping-collar-gm2c-30-ss or try out amazon in your region. Fastenal is also a good place to check. Since McMaster doesn't ship to international non business/ non school customers. global industrial also has black oxide steel collars, but if you're in Canada like me, you will be much better off with the stainless ones.

LOOL, I'm going on my 4th oil pan soon. Considering the 3rd one was done in a manor similar to described above, and it started leaking the same day I got the edge back, I feel like letting the engines sit for those 4 hours to cure the RTV may help. It could also be warpage from letting the engine run too soon after the pan is applied and/or heat warpage in general.

Found out no there was no adaptive cruise in the 15's after purchase, even though the sales sheets said the car would be equipped with it.

Can't say for sure, but a catch can couldn't hurt.

Checked the can after 5000km of winter driving. It had about 350 mL of liquid (more water than oil). So apparently it does work, but not very well in the summer. The front one remained empty, but the main rear can was fairly full. Also removed the stainless wool before the winter.

Haven't seen any available You can get that grille on ebay too now, a few sellers have it. It looks like the clips are the same as the stock and raptor grille.

1) Remove the under body shield on the oil pan side , bunch of torx heads and a few plastic clips. 2) The drain plug faces the ground, uses a torx bit I believe. Remove and drain. 3) Measure the fluid you got out, should be around 700 ml. Probably will be metallic looking from wear. 4) Clean the drain plug, should be some metal on the magnetic end of it. Re-install (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft) 4) The fill plug is directly under the rear turbo, same style as the drain plug (See 1004Ron's post). 5) Grab some 75W-140 gear oil, I recommend AMSOIL Severe Gear, or Motorcraft. 1 bottle per flush you plan on doing. 6) Fill with a hand pump, roughly 650 ml, at about 700 ml the fluid will start to spill out of the fill port. Total fill capacity is 700 ml. 7) After you get the roughly 700 ml in and it stops dripping, put the plug back in, clean any metal off the magnet. (2015 Torque spec is 33 lb.ft) 8) Re-install the under-body shield. 9) Drive it and then check for leaks, if you plan on doing multiple flushes drive enough to heat up the oil. The oil that comes out smells horrible, so enjoy! Depending on your mileage you might also want to get an oil analysis done. OAI Testing is pretty good.

If I dont have to pay for it........ then yes Everyone with the RX systems seems to be catching a good amount of fluid. RX is the way to go.

Hopefully I'll finally put 3 packs of Dynamat (36sqft each) and 50 lbs of poly-fill into the edge some point this month. Had them sitting in the basement for like 6 months now. Dynamat is on sale at Amazon for 220CAD right now, even cheaper in the states last time I checked. Poly-fill (on the inside) might help to fill in the trunk side panels and under floor, plus its easy to remove if you dont glue it in. Carpet underlay is another good option as well. For the outside a rubberized undercoating is the way to go!

UPR SUCKS BIG TIME. I'm at ~ 18 '000 km now. I drain both cans at least at each oil change which is ~ every 5000 km. They never have more than a thin coating of fluid in them, even added SS wool, it helped a little. As to driving habits, I drive the car hard, always getting into boost and its tuned. This was mainly in summer/spring conditions so that does impact what is collected. I'll be updating that topic thread after the winter. Also, I had the kit installed since the initial quote was cheaper than me buying it paying shipping, duties and taxes and wonderful handling fees. I had to buy the lms tuner, which would've been brutal to pay taxes and duties on. It was just cheaper to have everything done by lms. But after it was installed the labour cost was double of the quote, but nothing I could do. The kit is not meant to fit well in the edge, the lines bend far more than they should, the rear can is a PITA to remove and drain. Get another companies kit, they are cheaper, more compact, and overall better. UPR SUCKS.

I've got this one : aFe Power 31-10260 Magnum FLOW Performance Air Filter (Dry, 3-Layer) non-oiled, also fits the fusion sport i believe

That would've looked pretty nice, maybe she'll change her mind. Thanks, its some 3m gloss black vinyl. Used to have plastidip surrounding the perimeter of the hood