lildisco

Did a pre-inspection/take the intake manifold off to a check for oil & deposits/accumulation, etc. I was very surprised to find very minimal oil accumulation on the valves & the throttle body. My 2.0 Ecoboost has 12,106 miles on it currently. Seeing an older video of a '14 Focus ST with 9,000 miles getting a catch can installed & when they removed the Intake Manifold, Everything was coated with oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6Uh3wEoNiM My 2.0 Ecoboost is a 2016 Version (Twin Scroll Version) & since about 2,000 miles, I've changed the Oil with Mobile1 Full Synthetic about every 4,000 (I know, over-kill, but with all the coking issues, I felt it was kinda extra insurance). Here's my Intake Manifold & Throttle Body after removing it from the engine, some oil accumulation, but not a lot: I then cleaned the Throttle Body & IM as a precaution: I'm interested to see what the OCC is going to catch. Still trying to find a good location to mount it.......

The catch can is universal & there really is no specific kit, with the exception of a few quick connectors for the 15+ Ecoboosts. The same principal applies to all vehicles. I've yet to see anything specifically for the 2.0 Ecoboost Edge. I can't figure out a good place to mount the can from above, will probably have to come from the bottom somewhere, just haven't investigated that far yet. I figured out that i can get the intake manifold off with a 1/4 inch ratchet & a small extension. The mounting point is my biggest hold up. I'm also interested in seeing if others have done this. Looking for tips/tricks if anyone has any

Same company i bought mine from. From the pictures/video, it looks easy, but the video is made for an f-150 v6 ecoboost & not a 2.0 edge. I've seen a couple videos to where you take off the intake manifold, but the most passenger bolt is a pain & can't get it off. I also can't figure out where to mount it either. The edge has considerably less room under the hood compared to the 150

I'm having very little success finding anyone that has installed one on a 2.0 Ecoboost Edge. I ordered one from teamrxp.com & it just came in this week. It's a little more complicated than the other ones you see online. It has 3 connections to it instead of 2. I'm having a hard time getting figuring out where to mount it as no one else has done it. I may have to pay a shop to install it & take pictures of the install process as i am no engineer & don't trust myself to make engineering decisions like that. Hopefully someone will chime in that has done this & offer some insight. I've been very interested in this & it seems that no one has posted up any information about it.

The twin scroll technology is designed for better fuel economy & power, but it's not a completely different engine. The 2.0 block is in many different platforms, such as the Focus ST & Fusion & Escape.

Where are you getting your information from? The 2.0 Ecoboost has been & is going to be around for a while. My '16 has the 2.0 & it's also available on the '17 as well. As long as you do regular maintenance & use quality products, it should last for a while. An oil catch can is a way to prolong engine life & performance.

Psst, there's up & down, left & right arrow buttons in the top left corner of the screen to let you know of more options available

No 2nd gen love?

Catch can shouldn't void the warranty, but depends on the dealership. Premium fuel can help, but the flaw with deposits is the design of the direct injection. The intake valves don't clean themselves like traditional engines because the fuel is added in the combustion chamber directly, not like the older engines. The other issue is blow-by, which is where the catch can comes into play. It keeps the oil vaper that gets past the rings, from entering the intake system. The type of oil you use & weight make a difference as well.

So the hour meter resets after 100 hours? I know that the trip meter will continue to roll as I've seen some with pretty much the factory mileage, not on an edge though.

You only have 1,353.7 miles & 24H & 24 minutes on trip 2 I basically do what you do macbwt, but i usually change the pump speed to the slowest setting towards the end of the 1st fill before the 1st click. I then let it rest a few more moments, maybe 15-20 seconds between clicks. Each station is different, so you have to kinda pay attention depending on where you're at.

There's really no replacement for displacement if you are towing a lot. The occasional tow is ok (as long as you're within spec) on either engine. I haven't had any issues with the 2.0 Ecoboost. It's a peppy little engine with little to no lag. It does seem pickier when it comes to the quality of the fuel as a performance & fuel economy. Only issue i have a concern with is the blow by & oil in the in the intake & coking issue. I plan on installing an Oil Catch Can to help combat the above issues. My fuel economy is on par with our old 2006 Mazda 6i with the 2.3L duratec, but the get up & go factor is vastly improved over the Mazda 6.

Maybe we didn't see it in the right light & angle, but we've seen several driving down the road & car lots & they definitely were more green/gray with a hint of blue

Too good to be blue isn't even remotely close to blue, more green with a few hints of blue. Kona Blue is going to be your closest color

If manufacturered in Canada/USA, I'd imagine that they'd follow those specs & in the USA speed limits (in some areas are over 80 mph), I'd say it's around 95-100. But going through the inspections over in the middle east, they may impose a different speed limitation in the computer. But, usually it for what the oem tires are rated at. They don't want you to be traveling at 90 on tires rated 70mph (unlikely rated that low) & blow up while driving down the road. Remember that tires rated at 95 can go for a short while above 95 & not have a problem, but if you're traveling over 100 for an extended period of time (like 10+ minutes) the integrity of the tire will likely degrade & cause a pretty bad accident.

It is usually what the oem tires are rated for. Usually around 100mph

what type of engine do you have 2.0 Turbo or 3.5V6? Could be a number of things, like mentioned above, to cause the cat to fail.

In that million+ miles, how many major repairs have been done? Would you expect Toyota to pay for the repairs? All I'm saying is that maintenance is a thing with any vehicle. Preventative maintenance ranks up there as well. I'm not saying that new cars shouldn't last well beyond 200,000 miles, but complaining that a dealer won't warranty parts because the vehicle is 'babied' & only has 174,000 miles on it is just absurd. But, what i do understand is the fact that making serviceable parts not serviceable. If you look at it from the car manufacturers stand point, that's another way for them to make money. If they engineered a vehicle that would never have a problem in 300,000+ miles, it wouldn't cost $35-40,000.it would cost well beyond what anyone on here could afford, but it would never break down. How much money do you think the dealer, manufacturer, mechanics, aftermarket companies, etc.., would make? The simple fact is, the manufacturers of all of these vehicles are designing vehicles that 'shouldn't' need major repairs under 100,000 miles. But there are 100's if not 1000's of variables that they try to account for (aggressive driver, multiple panic stops, hard take offs, weather, road conditions, etc, etc), & i think they're doing a hell of a lot better job now, than what has been done in the past (above land cruiser is a diamond in the rough, but not all land cruisers are at the million mile mark. Semi's regularly hit the million mile mark, but ask them what their repair/maintenance bills are + cost of the Semi). The human factor is the biggest variable that cannot be accounted for. Goes all the way from design, materials used, quality of the materials used, assembly, care/maintenance, driving conditions, etc, etc.

wouldn't an Oil Catch Can work to catch this extra fuel & oil before it reaches the crank case?

So you have nearly 200,000 miles & a 10 year old vehicle (1st gen as well) & you're complaining of 3 components failing? I'd be very happy to only have 3 issues like that on a high mileage 10 year old vehicle Components fail, sometimes regardless of wailing or hot dogging it. Brake booster had an extended warranty on it i believe, PTU was/is known to puke some fluid out of a breather tube. Consensus here is to have a place suck out the old fluid & replace with new. I highly doubt that ANY manufacturer will honor any failed component much over 5 years (I've seen 7 with my CX7) from the original purchase date. Expecting NEVER to have any problem with a vehicle with close to 200,000 miles is pretty absurd, even for foreign cars.

So you filled up the car & it didn't reset? Or do you mean that you filled up your car & that's what the computer said you did? Did you manually calculate yoir tank?

I wish we could of been able to afford a Sport. Couldn't justify spending the extra money for one. Nice Pick Up!

I don't understand why most people think that going to the dealer is the top of the line place to be. Most oil changes & general maintenance are done by their lowest paid techs. Most of them are just there for a paycheck & don't care about anyones car. Should Dealers be held to a higher standard? Yes, absolutely! But, are they? No, not most of the time. Any good 'lube tech' isn't going to last long doing oil changes. They're going to move on to bigger & better (paying) things.

I went through the TPMS malfunction earlier. The problem should go away once sensors get put in their proper locations. If not immediately, will go off after a few miles. What irked me was there was the tires & wheels came off another edge, but the TPMS sensors were from an earlier vehicle & not compatible with my '16. My catch can is on order, so I'm VERY interested in what it'll grab. Better safe than sorry, i guess. I know that on the 15 & up, the turbo's were slightly redesigned with their twin scroll tech. Only time will tell

I'm also wondering if your intake valves are coated will un-burned oil. I'm looking getting a oil catch can. I'm really curious about what the can will catch. I'm approaching 12,000 miles & I've seen a video of a 9,000 mile 2.0 Ecoboost Focus ST where his intake valves are coated with unburned oil. This causes rough idle, hesitation & sluggish take offs. I'm very curious how long these intake valves will last before they need to be cleaned or replaced.