lildisco

& here i thought that paying $365 for a catch can was high. Just at a glance, it looks like a decent kit, but 20-30 install time seems a little far fetched.

Just a few miles over 400 since catch can was installed & decided to drain the can to see what was caught. I will admit that I spilled a little bit getting out from underneath the car, but still a decent amount for the mileage. We don't really beat on it & we mainly drive city/country roads with very little highway. Also have used full synthetic oil since around 2,000 miles.

Here's what my Catch Can has caught in 400+ miles on my 2.0 Ecoboost. Well worth the investment to not have this being regurgitated back into the engine. We usually don't beat on the car & usually city/country roads with very little highway & full synthetic oil since around 2,000 miles. Currently around 12,500 miles.

It's called coking & seems to be a problem with most ecoboost's due to direct injection. As stated above, it's a common issue with direct injection period as gasoline doesn't clean the valves anymore when fuel is injected directly into combustion chamber & not through the intake manifold. Check out my post about adding a catch can to a 2.0 Ecoboost: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/ You also might want to look at this to get a better understanding of ecoboost's & blowby: http://teamrxp.com/p/instructions I checked my catch can with about 70 or so miles with the catch can on & it gave me 3 or 4 drops of yellowish oil like liquid. I now have close to 500 miles with the catch can & very curious to see how much crap is in there now. A catch can on ANY forced induction vehicle is a must in my opinion.

I do know that the rears are different on a non-sport. I picked up my rear set from a member with a sport who said that they didn't fit. I believe that the fronts 'might be' the same. They look decent & have noticed a lot less debris on the front doors since i installed the OEM splash gaurds

If you ever get wax on the plastic parts, easiest thing to do is use an old school rubber eraser to get the wax off. My father in law decided to wax my mother in law's cx9 a few years ago because he was bored & ended up waxing EVERY THING. Took me some time, but eventually i was able to remove all the wax residue off all the textured body panels.

They might not be able to do as it's a liability & a safety issue. akirby's solution is probably the best way to handle the situation.

Pretty easy, but it's not something that can be done remotely, unless you have your laptop & obd2 adapter & forscan already & connected to the Internet

Definitely would check it. It may also help to note that neither of us smoke, but the wife doesn't like having the windows down while going over 55 due to the wind noise, so we do use the blower function a lot. Chef, never used a reusable cabin air filter. How do you tell if it's dirty or not or when it's time to clean?

It didn't line up with with anything. But i believe that the new filter had the same markings. Neither had FP-71 mentioned anywhere.

It hasn't been officially a year since we purchased our '16 Fwd 2.0 Ecoboost & i was curious about how dirty the cabin air filter was. Mind you, the car is in a garage most of its life & has a little over 12,200 miles. This thing was FILTHY. I mean nearly black. I don't know if it's a good thing, or a bad thing, since it kept all of that from entering further into the cabin. I believe it's supposed to be changed once a year according to the manual, but i may do twice a year by the looks of it. The filter is a Motorcraft FP-71.I purchased mine from Amazon for $14.44 +tax. Well worth the investment!

That's not a Ford Corporate issue, it's an Apple Ford issue

I don't understand how this is Fords fault? You purchased a part not directly from Ford dealership you went to, with the right part # on the box, but wrong part in the box. Then you basically paid a Ford dealership to troubleshoot the issue, which resulted in total of 5 hours labor,if i read your post correctly (2 trips). I really don't understand why you think Ford Corporate would reimburse you for anything, even though the part in question was from another Ford Dealer. If anything, Apple Ford should reimburse you for the part & possibly some labor associated with the wrong part being delivered.

About 3 or 4 drops of light brown liquid came out. Kinda looked like fresh oil. I wasn't expecting much as everything is still settling in (oil/stuff in the tubes making their way to the catch can). But, HEY, that's 3 or 4 drops not making back into the intake.

Extra long hoses might decrease the efficiency of the catch can. The the fluid/gases have much longer to travel to reach the catch can. There is space on the top passenger side rear of the engine, but residential fluid tends to go down with gravity, so we decided to mount it on the frame rail. Lower than the intake & PCV system. There is several installs that show the catch can mounted off the passenger side motor mount, but the bracket that came with my kit was much smaller. You still have to remove the bottom engine cover to drain the catch can, but you should be draining it every oil change anyways. We have nearly 100 miles on the car since the catch can install, so i was going to put it up on ramps & drain the can to see what has been caught. It hasn't been real cold, maybe in the 20's, since we installed it and this weekend it's supposed to be in the 50's - 60's. Should be interesting to see what, it anything has been caught. I also did an oil change a 100 miles or so before the catch can was installed, so that 'may' effect what was caught as the oil has been diluted yet.

*cough* ORLY? *cough* ;)

The teamrxp.com design is one of the best out there as it pretty much is catching things when it's boosting or in vacuum,hence the 3 ports on the can. Most catch cans go between the intake manifold & the PCV & only catches stuff when a vacuum is present, this catches more because of its design.

Rail dust from when it was transported on a rail car either from the factory or when it was transported around to it's designated dealer. http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-remove-rail-dust-with-carpro-ironx-and-a-clay-bar/

First off, I'm so very glad that i got this done, i would have preferred to this myself, but I'm not very technical when it comes to installing something that didn't come on the car. The Mechanic around the corner from my house, was very interested in this install because he hasn't heard of the issue on Ecoboosts (he's mainly a diesel mechanic, working on VW's & bigger trucks), but also does regular maintenance items on pretty much all vehicles. He was very awesome to deal with & if i have any issues in the future, he's a very nice person to deal with. He's also an independent, so he's always interested in learning more things to improve his business. This kit was purchased from teamrxp.com for around $350 http://teamrxp.com/products/rx-dual-valve-catch-can-kit-2013-2017-ford-escape-20 Here's some Video's/Links that may help you with your installation: 2.0 Focus ST RXP Catch Can Installation: Explain of the importance of a Catch Can & Installation of an RXP Catch Can on a F-150: Another F-150 RXP Catch Can Installation: Tracy Lewis Performance Channel (Multiple RXP Catch Can Installations) - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCedKzubM3TtjdFLS5Y0iU3A General Installation Instructions - http://teamrxp.com/p/instructions First we removed the intake manifold, There's plenty of videos of this online, with some slight variables, but is pretty easy to figure out. We reused the stock connections from the PCV & Intake Manifold: We then decided on a location for the Catch Can. Best place that we could fine, was on the sub frame pretty much right behind the oil drain plug. There's already a hole there & the bracket that came with the can, fit perfectly. With that mounted in it's permeate location, We 'roughly' routed the lines from the Intake Manifold & PCV back to the catch can. After that, we then ran the lines to what they called "in boost evacuation". The best location that we could find, was on the top of the engine & has a yellow connector next to the quick connect. Here's a pic with the Quick Connector removed: We then added the Check Valves & routed the lines back to the Catch can in a more permeate. Zip Tied the line from the "In Boost Evacuation" to the A/C lines so that it we be far enough away from the Turbo & Exhaust Manifold. Here's the pic of the other check valve. This located roughly between the air box & the engine. We had to do a little tinkering with the hose clamps & connectors on the valve cover to get the engine cover to fit. We then added the Clean Side Separator Cap. Now, I wasn't a fan of drilling a hole into the airbox to get filtered fresh air, so i added a simple breather filter on the end of the separator cap. I'm going to tinker with this over the next few weeks to get a better 'look', but as long as you're getting filtered air from somewhere, you're good. I hope this give people a general idea of where/how to mount their Catch Can. This particular catch can, has 3 connections on it, instead of the traditional 2. The traditional 2 connection catch can typically can go in between the intake manifold & the PCV, which may be easier, but it also might not offer the same amount of protection as the teamrxp.com as what was installed today.

More to come when i get to my laptop later tonight

If I'm allowed to be in the shop, i will try

I have an appointment Wednesday to get this catch can installed from a local independent car shop. He's going to see if he might need to fab up something to get the can mounted.

It's possible to, but this is the wife's DD & I'd like to keep it stock as possible. If the TB fails, then yes i would consider a bigger TB as a replacement. I was just really concerned over some of the coking/blow by issues on other ecoboost's. But, after seeing the good condition of mine with 12,100 miles, i feel a hell of a lot better. This car cost nearly double of what her Mazda 6i cost new back in 06 & we want it to last just as long, if not longer than it.

The idea of a catch can is to catch all that gunk & prevent coking occurring on the intake valves. The problem is finding a specific kit for each vehicle. It's next to impossible to build a kit specifically for every type of vehicle. While most installs are similar, the location/placement of the can is going to be different. Since the 'modding' market is slim on the Edge & specific kits are going to be hard to come by. I too, am looking for insight on where to place the can & routing of the lines, but it seems as though we're the innovators that the rest of the people will follow our lead.

I can tell you that while the intake manifold is similar, it is different on the Edge. Particularly, the vacuum line on the drivers side. Took me awhile get the damn thing off. I don't remember what the underneath looks like, but I wonder if that bracket is still there on an automatic. Also, the bracket i received a much smaller bracket in any of the video's i've seen.