lildisco

Coking is the term you're looking for I'll have to look at my LTFT's one of these days. When my wife drives it for any length of time, mpg's go way down. Go way down

Looks like your parking brake assembly. That main line coming into it should go all the way up front to a lever. The other ends so go to manual levers on each rear brake caliper. Usually isn't an issue & shouldn't need replaced. Most people never use them & if they do, they're a 1 use item, especially with your vehicle age & looks like you're in an area that gets snow. If you wanted to change it out, might be a huge under-taking for someone who's just starting out. Might be better to take it a mechanic or if you have mechanical friends to give you a hand. I believe that piece w/ the spring is sold as 1 piece from your parking brake lever to that junction point in that picture, not 100% certain.

I got 45.99mpg from just north of Cincinnati, Oh to just just north of Columbus, Oh drafting a semi, in my mother in laws 2009 Mazda CX9 AWD. Used 2.11 gallons in 99 Miles. Speed limit was 65 & he was doing 70. I was 7-8 car lengths back from him & could feel the car shake if i got too far back. Best I've ever gotten drafting. In our '16 Edge SEL 2.0 Ecoboost, I've been trying to accelerate slowly down the hills & kinda coasting until i hit the speed limit then maintaining the speed limit. Using Cruise Control in area's the are even remotely hilly just tank MPG's. I also turn the A/C off going up hills & use recirculate to keep it cooler longer. with our instant fuel economy gauge, you can definitely see a difference when the A/C is on going up a hill in comparison to when it's not on going up a hill.

I thought that sync 3 came with the redesign in 2015,if not, kinda sucks for the people that have MFT

You wouldn't have MFT, you'd have Sync 3, if anything. I believe it'll pop up on the left screen towards the bottom by the door ajar icon. Not 100% sure as i hardly see it besides when i do oil changes

According to this video, you have to reset the charging system so that the pcm recognizes the new battery & adjusts the parameters accordingly:

I was underneath the Edge today draining the catch can & noticed this tiny hole. I believe it's on the transmission, but i was i was wondering if anyone else that's a 2.0 Ecoboost FWD has noticed this or could check to see if they have a similar hole. Should i be concerned? I really don't want to take it to the dealer if i can avoid it. Thoughts?

If you're not modded, you should be under warranty, just take it to the dealer

P04DB - CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM DISCONNECTED

Nick is correct. I thought that you could disable the LED Signature Lights, but you can't through the instrument cluster. I thought that i was able to disable them at one point. Maybe it was through FORScan, not sure

To my knowledge, the US doesn't have any fog lights. If you're referring to the Daytime Running Lights, the only way to turn them off is to go through the menu on the instrument cluster on the left side. I forget what exactly it's under, but that's the only way to turn the daytime running lights.

I've done the conversion & it's a drastic improvement over stock. Is it comparable to HID? Definitely not. Will it give you more usable light for under $30,yes. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=150621

I replaced the front pads & rotors & have yet to experience the issue. I had it a handful of times prior to the swap. My reasoning for changing them was the incredibly high amounts of brake dust accumulating on the wheels in all 4 corners. Currently have about 1,000 miles (maybe more) & haven't had the issue. I also just changed the rear pads only as i didn't feel changing the rotors was worth it. Centric Premium Rotors 12561118 & StopTech Z231818 for the fronts & Centric Posi-Quiet pads 105.16650 for the rear. Granted, spending money on this is not ideal, but i have much better stopping power & even more importantly, far less brake dust.

Get yourself some fluid film. Should prevent it from spreading more http://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/ I've been using it for years to prevent rust. The stuff works wonders. My work vehicles gets sprayed once a year & there's very little signs of rust, most likely developed prior to applying Fluid Film. Every time i work on any of our vehicles, i apply fluid film. Kinda like preventative maintenance. Here's a video that i really like that shows exactly what fluid film can do:

Centric Posi-Quiet pads part #10516650 were installed tonight on the rears. Less than $35 shipped for the pads. Didn't change the rotors, so hopefully won't have any issues later on.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21044-adaptive-steering-fault/?fromsearch=1

If it's a dry flow air filter, why does it come pre oiled from the factory? I don't have any experience with dry flow air filters. This one looks like a k&n: Pro 5R Factory-Oiled Media for Maximum Performance

So, you're upset that there's a boost leak at 118,000 miles & 2 mechanics can't pinpoint the problem? I can understand a little frustration, but at 118,000, there's going to be things needing to be replaced, regardless of how meticulous you've kept the vehicle maintained. It probably would be cheaper to repair your current edge than to buy a new vehicle, but i can also understand not wanting potential future problems too. Even new vehicles have bugs that need to be worked out, double edged sword i guess

Actually, no grabbiness to be had. The pads have performed as good if not better than the oems. There was the occasional grabbiness with all OEM stuff. In 6 days of driving, the wife hasn't said anything about grabbing. The handful of times I've driven it, it seems to brake like a normal vehicle. The Centric Rotors were delivered today & promptly installed this evening. Cleaned everything up with brake cleaner & bedded the pads. We'll see in the coming weeks if braking has 'improved', but so far, we have far less brake dust

Centric Rotor part #12561118 are the correct part # for the Fronts on A NON SPORT, not that it helps you any....

Working on my Centric Rotor at the moment & to see if they're the correct size

A boost leak is different than turbo failure/engine failure, it could be from many different things such as a bad Bypass Valve, or dry rotted line or coupler. Did you receive any other information than just a boost leak?

I want to say that i read somewhere that the 'RXP' Catch Cans, (There are several), catch over 90% of all blow by. I'm trying to find the article/video, but can't at the moment.

Well, the OP is a sport, 2.7L, I'm a 2.0L. I'm interested in how much he catches & how bad blow by is on the 2.7.

Congrats! How long has it been installed? It took mine about 3-4 weeks to catch enough to drain, (had a few drops come out prior). We also don't drive a lot, so your collection time may be shorter. My throttle body, intake manifold, intake valves thank me. I already had oil accumulation in the intake & throttle body with 12,000 miles. I 'believe' that i was the first 2.0 Edge to do this & post up installation pics & what not, glad to see others following suit! Here's my 2.0 Ecoboost FWD installation & few follow ups: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/page-2