lildisco

Good Ol' Fluid Film works for me

Highly doubt breaking the law will help with coking. If you understand what coking is, then no matter how many times you redline/max out your car, you can't clean oil/dirt/debris off the back of your intake valves.

Paddles work both in Drive & in Sport Mode

The turbo in the 2.0 is quick spooling & comes alive around 2K (i believe it reaches full boost around 2K), but it's gasping for air around 5.5-6K. Gives you the grunt you need to get going, but it's not a high revving performance engine. As long as you know this, passing/every day driving is pretty simple. Know your vehicles strengths weaknesses

It has to do with tuning & quality of fuel & oil & your right foot. The more you push the fun pedal, the turbo spools, which is a chain reaction of sorts. Turbo spools, which requires more fuel & the factory tune means it's going to run rich (better to run rich than lean) & expel out carbon & stuff down the exhaust. Higher quality fuel burns better than the lesser quality fuel (Stay with Top Tier Gas) & your tips will stay cleaner longer. I just consider cleaning the tips, part of my car wash procedure. Takes less than 5 minutes to do both tips. An Oil Catch Can is a good start to keep the extra junk from making it into the exhaust & engine. Will it stop it completely no, but your engine would be healthier not having all that blow by & coking developing on your intake valves.

Leaving it in Drive kills the responsiveness of the 2.0. If i need to get some pep off the line or pass someone, I'll throw it into Sport Mode. Once i get up to speed, I'll put it back into Drive. Leaving it in Drive is supposed to optimize fuel economy, so some performance is lost because of this.

It's nice to have to get you in the ballpark, but i primarily use Waze as the live traffic is much better than Sync. Google Maps is also a decent option

My OEM one was only 550CCA,so i hope this holds up better than the oem & can take an 'accidental' drain or 2 before being replaced

The last 2 Fords that i had, batteries failed under 3 years but over 1 year of ownership new. Dealership wouldn't replace either stating that is was over 12 months 12,000 miles & it's considered a wear item not covered under the 3/36,000 bumper to bumper. Didn't attempt to take it back to the dealership because it probably would have tested fine as i left it on the battery charger for 2 days prior to an hour & a half trip to the dealership (different dealership than the ones the denied the 2 previous claims, hence why i drive further for better service).

Last few times I've had issues with the battery under the warranty, it wasn't covered. But i would have an hour & half drive, so the car would also charge it on the way there. Just not worth the time & effort to try the dealer.

In the past dealings with Ford, they only honor certain things for the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty. A battery is considered a wear item & not covered under the 3/36. I recharged the battery & it probably would have tested fine & they wouldn't replace it even if it was covered. Then when it's the single digits or below outside the battery would probably fail, leaving myself or my wife stranded. Why take the chance? It's a fairly easy swap. The dealer that i trust to work on the car is an hour & a half away, 3 hour round trip + time off work + fuel. Cheaper & easier to replace it & have piece of mind instead of it being in limbo

Last I knew it was 12 months 12,000 miles for batteries, the car is 1 years & 6 months old & has just under 20,000 on it

If there's an Advance Auto around anyone, they're having a 20% off sale till tomorrow I believe. Saved me $35 off this sucker, 3 year warranty. The oem battery was 550CCA while this one is 760CCA & its a AGM, so kinda like a win win, lol

Wife left the parking lights on all night earlier in the week. My battery tender didn't have enough to wake it from the dead (didn't really expect it to), borrowed a battery charger from work & let it sit for a few days on a 12v 2A charge. That gave me time to think about it. With all the fuss about battery life lately, what were the odds that it would my battery would fail during the first cold snap (ohio). I didn't want to spend the money, but the original oem battery lasted 1.5 years. With everyone saying that batteries last about 2 years, I didn't want to take a chance. Brand new, 760CC AGM battery from Advance Auto installed & i have piece of mind. This sucker is massive compared to the oem one. I had to wiggle a few things around to get it to fit, but she's in.

You can adjust the accessory delay in FORScan

THANK YOU!!!! Been waiting on that one for awhile!!!

Man this thread is hopin! 2016 SEL FWD F2GA-14C204-BSB

My teamrxp catch can in my 2.0 edge & my james barone catch can on my cx7 barely catches anything during the summer months where it's frequently above 60 degrees, all day every day. I find a lot more in my Catch Cans when the temp is below 40 degrees. I haven't checked my Edge's can in a couple thousand of miles so it may be worth a check. The last few times i checked, happened to be after long road trips & a few drops came out each time. Maybe it's something to do with how much boost we use & when we use it? Definitely get more with our daily short drives than our longer vacation trips

Basically every time you take off, you're in boost. These turbos spool at such a low rpm & when they start to make boost, you use more fuel. The biggest factor is how you drive. You cannot drive a boosted car the same as a n/a car & expect the same mileage. When my wife drives our 2.0 Edge, she gets around 20 city driving. She must love the torque or something, i don't know. But when i drive the same conditions, i get around 25. Planning ahead for stops to limit idle time & not accelerating to stop are keys. Tailgating & jerking the gas pedal also don't help fuel economy. Cruising at 80+ miles an hour will most likely mean that you're in boost, using more fuel if you weren't in boost. Cruise control isn't always the best option for optimum fuel economy. Any little grade & it mashes the gas to get back to the mph it was det for. Our Edge will coast damn near forever if you let it. I've gotten over 33mpg in our Edge, but then we started getting into mountains & that went down to 28mpg. Before you start to complain about the mileage, maybe rethink your driving habits.

Finally!!! Waze is available for Android Auto! https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.engadget.com/amp/2017/07/26/waze-android-auto-hands-on/

Not sure if this helps or not but here's my experience on my '16 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21556-2016-sel-winter-wheels/?fromsearch=1 A quick search indicates that i have some tpms that might work from my winter wheels DE8T-1A180-AA http://www.tpms.com/2011_Ford_Edge_TPMS_s/5256.htm According to that, the ones i have 'should' work. I can't assume any responsibility if they don't.

I guess i should have mentioned that when the shade is back or the panoramic is tilted up in the back. We rarely have the it all the way back

I tinted the panoramic roof, one of the best things I've done. Doesn't burn your neck & head when you have it open. I believe that i have 5% on there. It's been over a year since i had it done.

Not trying to sound mean or trying to be an prick, but dealers aren't always the best place to trust for service. Especially if you don't know jack about cars. Most oil changes/maintenance items at the dealership are done by the lowest of the low techs. You're not going to have your top tech doing an oil change or rotating tires at $30/hr (or whatever) when you can get a noob to do it for $8 or less. They're going to put enough oil in to get in the middle of the dipstick. They usually don't fill it up to the top. 1 Reason being that to properly check the oil in a ecoboost, you need to let it sit for 15-20 minutes to get an accurate reading. 2, it cuts into their profits. Lets just say that your car takes 5 qts & they put in 4.5 qts. Over 30 cars, that adds up. It's still not technically a problem, but that's just 1 example. My mom took her '12 fusion all the time to do tire rotations, etc & pretty much 75% of her lugs need to be replaced as they have been over torqued with an impact gun without a torque stick. I only trust a few people/places to work on my vehicles.' Usually' small independent shops are going to care more than dealerships because they want to retain their customer base. Obviously, you can argue both sides, but more often than not, people who don't know the basics about their vehicles, get taken advantage of. Oil changes are quite simple & once you see what is involved, you'll wonder why you haven't been doing them yourself. Dealerships/Service Centers are there to make money & maximize profits wherever they can.

Have you checked your engine oil? If it's not to the 2nd hole, it's not full & can cause some noises like you describe. Let the car sit for 20-30 minutes & then check it, most places just check it nearly immediately after shut down & doesn't give an accurate reading. Let the oil pool back to the pan from the turbo & cooler & such.