lildisco

Not too bad of a deal if you can get it in stock https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-FS-European-Car-Formula-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5W-40-5-Quart-Pack-of-3/389304923?athbdg=L1800&adsRedirect=true

Depends on your driving style. I tow a ZTR Mower in a 5x8 trailer almost every week during the summer months. This year I hauled about ~3,500lbs of mulch twice (about 10 miles one way) from Lowe's. Not very smart, but it was over a short distance & I didn't go over 35mph the entire way. I also haul random other things a few times a year, but towing also shortens the service intervals. The Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is located up by the transmission. Usually gets hot because of the engine bay & heats up the fluid & the fluid breaks down faster. I changed that out to Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140 (Smurf Blood) & it appears to handle the heat & beating I do when towing. I believe that I swapped it out ~18,000 miles & then again ~8,000 miles later & still looked new blue with way less shavings on the drain plug. Rear Drive Unit, RDU, I've only changed once with Motorcraft 75W Disconnect Fluid (only brand compatible with the RDU that I'm aware of). It was pretty nasty & I should probably do it again soon. Transmission has already been discussed, but all depends on usage. I wouldn't go above 30,000 on either of the 3. As far as changing the fluids compared to the previous vehicles you've driven, there's probably a lot more electronics in your steering wheel compared to your entire car of your youths. These electronics have a finer tolerance than your previous vehicles. Tiny amounts of dirt & debris can create havoc on these electronics. Better to have fresh clean fluid, than dirty old broken down fluid.

Preventative maintenance. To my knowledge, there's no filter on these transmissions. Best to change the fluid every 30,000 or before instead of waiting & causing more harm than good. It's relatively easy & cheap for ST's & non ST's to do. Especially for piece of mind. I may do my next flush sooner to get the Valvoline in there instead of the Motorcraft fluid.

Ordered some for my 2020 SEL AWD. Roughly the same cost as Motorcraft, but for whatever reason I prefer Valvoline for transmission fluid. You also need to order in quantities of 6 if you do free shipping.

I don't remember what version I installed, maybe 2 tone, but it's from the 2015-2018 version edge & I'm quite pleased with it. Moar better than the whimpy beep beep OEM horn. Install took less than 10 minutes. I went in through the drivers front wheel liner with the wheel turned all the way to the right & popped it out. Plug & play. Let me see if I can find the thread. https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/32355-change-single-note-horn-to-dual-note-horn/#comment-233940

Summer rubber installed on our 2016 SEL Fwd. Kumho Crugen HP71's & new TPMS's installed. TPMS's were still good, but we just crossed over 8 years on the OEMs. Didn't want to unmount them & replace them in the next year or so. Spring me didn't screw fall me this time. Winters, which probably need to be replaced as well, are cleaned & ceramic coated. Now to hopefully enjoy Mother's Day this weekend with the wife & a family.

Got around to putting the summer wheels & tires on our 2020. This year, spring me won't screw fall me. I cleaned & 'ceramic' coated the wheels with Mekee's 37 Hydro Blue. Second year I've used it. Makes cleaning the wheels really easy. There's something about water beading off the wheels that makes you feel like the wheels are really clean. The 2016 is getting new summer rubber, the OEMs lasted till now. Now to repeat the tire cleaning process so spring me doesn't screw fall me.

I know that the non ST's take ULV fluid. Not sure about the ST's. I just did my 2020 SEL's with OEM Mercon ULV fluid a few months ago. Doubt it's helpful. Owners manual says Mercon ULV for the 2.7L :

I'm wondering if some sort of debris from the pads? I've had 4 or 5 sets of these over the years on different vehicles & have never had an issue. Maybe this was just a fluke. Surely it's odd, but relatively cheap repair.

I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premiums & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything last week, but no change. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it was ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premium rotors & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.

That's how I always have done it as the negative side of the battery isn't easy to get to. Start-stop still works for ~ 2 months so far after resetting the BMS. I haven't looked at the battery state of charge, but I can if the issue pops up again.

I posted this in another thread, but: I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal. The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged. Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal. As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since

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I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal. The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged. Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal. As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since

3 times drain & fill on our 2016 SEL Fwd 2.0 w/ 69,083 miles. 2nd time we've done it on the 2016. Got anywhere between 4 & 4.5 quarts out each time. This time we used Valvoline Maxlife instead of OEM 🤞

I was able to take part of the fender liner off & installed a 2015-2018 OEM Ford edge horn. Plug & play, less than 10 minutes on our 2020 SEL AWD.

They should have with the volume button. I'd read the owners manual & if that doesn't work, I'd make a trip to the dealership.

Thanks. I guess it is serviceable when you split the trans open, lol. Here's MacT talking about the ULV fluids: https://youtu.be/kJQW6wXS0qg?si=e4Hbwa7tYkCXaygT

To my knowledge, there's no filter in these transmissions, so any wear from the transmission just sits in the coolant & cycled through everything. When I do another 3x drain & fill I'll probably switch to Valvoline. Probably by that time MacT will have changed his 2019 fluid a couple of times & report on the results.

I also swapped the PTU Fluid to Redline Lightweight Shockproof (AKA Smurf Blood, because it's blue). After ~8,000 miles, there's way less gunk in it, compared to OEM, but with ~8,000 miles, that's nothing on new fluid, but I wanted to make sure that I got as much of the OEM fluid out of there. The 1st pic is the 1st drain with the OEM fluid & this is the most recent drain with Redline Lightweight Shockproof

This is from the 2nd drain & fill, slightly more red, but not a lot. It is my understanding that the OEM ULV fluid turns dark pretty quick. Someone suggested Valvoline makes a ULV fluid that stays red much longer than the OEM.

Here's the 1st drain & fill I did on our 2020 SEL a few weeks ago just under 27,000.

Ziebart traps in moisture & rots metal from the inside out. Use a breathable undercoating like fluid film, unless you don't plan on keeping your vehicle for an extended period of time.

Also decided to do a transmission Drain & fill x3, touch up my undercoating with Fluid Film & swap over to my winter rubber on our 2020 SEL AWD. Spring me screwed fall me & didn't clean the winter wheels when the weather was nicer & warmer. So that took some extra time & nice hot bucket of water. Besides touching up the door hinges & the bottom of the doors & hatch, I should be ready for winter. The 1st drain & fill got about 4.2 qts out & the other 2 got 3.5 qts out. Motorcraft Ulv fluid was $3/qt cheaper than Valvoline equivalent. Fluid was quite dark & a tiny hint of red in it. On the 3rd drain, there was more red in it. Currently ~26,000, but I did a lot of hauling with a small utility trailer & ztr this year & wanted to be extra cautious. A friend of mine who owns a transmission shop said that I should be fine till next year, but was shocked at how dark the fluid was. It was getting late & I was tired & forgot to snap a Pic of the 3rd drain, but it was more red than the first 2.