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lildisco

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Everything posted by lildisco

  1. I can confirm that the above process DOES NOT work with my Winter Wheels (OEM Wheels & Tires, Aftermarket TPMS from Discount Tire). I swapped over to the winter wheels last night & I could get into the program portion listed above, but the 1st TPMS (LF) would not trigger. I got into FORScan & saw that there's a TPMS Procedure & tried that & it still didn't work. I did a reset of the Body Control Module (The same area that the TPMS Procedure is located) & took it for a drive. Within 10-15 minutes of driving, the new TPMS were learned. I then tried the TPMS Procedure in FORScan & it DID NOT work again. I then turned the car off for the night. Woke up & checked it this morning & the TPMS were learned this morning. Really weird that my trigger tool worked with my OEM wheels & TPMS, but not the after market ones. Either way, this was MUCH easier this year, than last year.
  2. be very careful & use a exacto knife & big slices of painters tape & i use plasti-dip. I've painted many emblems like this with very good results. It's very tedious, but it's a lot better than having the shiny chrome.
  3. The projectors are designed for a halogen bulb with a similar connector to the H9. You're not going to melt your wiring or have any issues with the dealer. If you're concerned & have done the swap, simply swap out the bulbs before any dealer visit. I've driven many consecutive hours at night with the lights on & have never smelled any burning electronic smell or melted the projector. This mod will give you more usable light & cost under $30. If you wanted to 'play it safe' you can buy something similar to Silver Stars that would give you more light over stock as the stock ones are Long Life. Some of your concerns were brought up in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21618-2016-edge-sel-dim-headlights/?fromsearch=1
  4. OEM spec is Long Life Bulbs. If you just change the buld to a regular bulb, you would notice a difference. The best bang for you buck is going to be a conversion from H11 to the H9. Main reasoning is for the coated tip on the H11's, the H9's don't have this. You get more usable light & don't effect your wiring or blind people with a HID conversion (or yourself with reflections in a projector housing). I've ran this setup for over 2 years without an issue. It just takes a slight modification on 1 of the tabs to complete & you're good to go. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/150621-how-headlight-bulb-conversion-h11-h9-9005-9011-a.html
  5. No one here ever said paddle shifters solve everything. If you read my post, with spirited driving, both your hands on the wheel is much safer than one on the wheel & one on the shifter. I don't consider turning from a stop sign or a light spirited driving. A manual transmission is going to give more power & acceleration than a automatic (things are getting better) BUT, how many Edge's made for the US Market have a manual trans? The American car market is geared towards Automatic Transmissions more so than manuals because most people don't want to learn to drive a manual. If you want to get real technical, you should always try to do your shifting, accelerating, braking in the straightest line possible. That way, it doesn't upset the vehicle with jerks or potential lock ups or wheel spins. Granted, LSD's will help with acceleration to put more power down than an open differential. I've never said that paddle shifters would replace a manual transmission, but for the occasional 'spirited drive' they work fine. I'd almost bet to say that over 98% of all Edge's sold never go into Sport or manual mode. A manual trans Edge would be nice to have, but they wouldn't sell enough in the US Market to justify their production costs. Paddle shifters or shifters with an up or down switch on them basically replace the older style shifters with, 1,2,D & OD. If these weren't in placr, there wouldn't be a way to manually select these gears. Again, 98%+ of these things produced will never be used, but it's there just incase.
  6. Both hands on the wheel is much safer than one on the shifter & one on the wheel. It's also much more comfortable for 'spirited' driving as you can downshift & upshift without taking your hands off the wheel. I've driven a manual for years & can relate, but you're talking about a lot of work & it may not even 'work' when completed because of all the electronics involved (fooling the computer & safety features, etc). Wish you luck, but i don't think it's economically feasible & more hazardous than the stock paddle shifters.
  7. You should have paddle shifters on the steering wheel for this. No need to change the shifter
  8. Sounds more like the 2.2 update & not the 2.3 update
  9. Do a continuity test on the wire you think is the ground to the chasis. Should let you know if it is the ground or not
  10. This reminds me of something a Driving Instructor told me once. Who can stop faster a Tractor Trailer or a BMW M3? The answer is the one who is paying attention. Apparently, his son wasn't paying attention in the M3 & rear-ended a Tractor Trailer. Always pay attention to your surroundings. Problem is now-a-days, vehicles are so comfortable, quiet & have so much technology, that people really forget what they're doing. I was just talking to a co-worker about autonomous vehicles & how for 99% of drivers would be wonderful. (Think about how many accidents, slow downs, traffic jams could be avoided if the human factor was virtually eliminated). I for one, couldn't stand autonomous cars, mainly because i like to drive. But, the vast majority of people 'cannot drive'. I partially think of their training, if any, & the ease of driving these newer vehicles, people don't realize the dangers of driving anymore.
  11. Fuel economy depends on the driver. When my wife is the primary driver, she gets around 21-22mpg & when I'm the primary driver i get around 25-26mpg in the same conditions. I get 28-30mpg on the highway & she usually gets 25-27. Throttle response is drastically improved when in Sport Mode when accelerating normally. You won't see much of a difference at WOT, except it won't go into Over Drive. When you're making boost, your fuel economy will suffer. OEM tires are geared towards fuel economy & not performance. The non-Sport Edges are more of a passenger vehicle A-B transportation. Sounds like you're an aggressive driver & sounds like you need an Edge Sport or another vehicle geared towards your driving style. People need to understand that you need to adjust your driving style to get the most out of the ecoboost's. You can't cruise at 80+ mph on the highway & expect to get 30+ mpg. You also can't wail on it off the line every time you take off & expect to get 25+mpg. Since your car is turbo'd, you're going to use more fuel while you're making boost in comparison to another Naturally Aspirated in the same category. The Ecoboosts shine when you're up to speed & you don't need to speed up. Constant speed ups & take offs kill mpg's in general, but more so in Forced Induction vehicles because more fuel is needed when in boost. Adjust your driving style or deal with the consequences.
  12. I'm still a mod over on Focus Fanatics, lol. We've had our Edge for a little over a year & a 1/2 now & really enjoy it. The stock Halogen headlights were one of the 1st things to go, followed by the horrendous amounts of brake dust (chrome wheels the wife had to have), plus some, LED touches inside & some modifications with FORScan. Overall good purchase imo. Sync 3 & Android Auto is pretty good combination too. I wouldn't consider the Edge a big vehicle. It's kinda on the same lines as a fusion. Ford definitely offers bigger vehicles too Enjoy the Edge! Very comfy & quiet with a lot of creature comforts.
  13. Try Sport Mode when taking off from a stand still. Really quickens the throttle response. You can switch back to drive when you're up to speed
  14. I know when my winter wheels for 1st installed on my 2016 SEL, it would emit an auditable alarm at least once, but sometimes would take around 50-100 miles to realize that there was a different tpms there. I had to manually exit the alert on the display every time i start the car & the light would stay on. I also had to do a tpms learn feature & tpms trigger tool for the vehicle to recognize the new winter wheels. I'd look for a different oem wheels/tires that have them in it. I paid around $600 for mine last year. May be helpful: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21556-2016-sel-winter-wheels/?fromsearch=1
  15. Doesn't mention anything about the DryFlow style. That way there's no oils to worry about to oil/dirty up the MAF or intake. I'm not looking for a performance increase or mpg increase (either would be nice if there were no decrease in either). I'm looking for a reusable, no oil type filter,mainly for cost savings. I thought that MacT was using something similar on his Edge & went like 40,000 before he cleaned the filter.
  16. That's fine by me. On a day trip last week, the computer said that we averaged 30.1 mpg, haven't actually calculated it yet. When the wife drives it, mpg's drop to 20 or under
  17. Understandable, not really due for an air filter change until February, just kinda looking around at the moment. Seems wasteful to throw the filters away every year. Also not looking for a performance increase, a mileage increase would be nice, but mainly because I'm lazy & would rather wash the filter out & reuse it. I've been waiting for an AEM Dry Flow to become available, but they haven't made anything official for the 2015+ yet. All i can find is this for the 2014 2.0 Ecoboost: https://www.aemintakes.com/mobile/product.aspx?prod=28-20395
  18. http://afepower.com/afe-power-31-10260-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter Ebay, Amazon says that this air filter doesn't fit the 2.0 Edge. However, it appears to fit other 2.0 Ecoboosts like the Fusion & the 2013-2016 MKX. I'm assuming that there is no difference between the MKX & Edge as far as the air filter, but does anyone know for sure? I'll probably just buy it & return it if it doesn't fit, but i'm fairly certain it will. Anyone have any experience with the air filters for the 2.0 Ecoboosts throughout the years?
  19. I think that you mean B instead of the A version. A version is cheaper than B. I doubt LED's are cheaper than non LED version.
  20. Found the part #: 13A565 bad side, they don't actually tell you which version has the LED's & which do not, you'll have to carefully read the description. Over $1,000 US http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=dPG%2fknE6Bnf9%2fiuv1ZuK4w%3d%3d&id=430702549&m=2&search=true&year=2016&make=Ford&model=Edge Ebay seems to be your friend is this case: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=6M2A13550AC+ford+edge&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X13A565+ford+edge.TRS0&_nkw=13A565+ford+edge&_sacat=0
  21. this might be of some help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Ford-Edge-Tail-Light-Reflector-Bar-w-Rear-Backup-Camera-OEM-/311974969715?hash=item48a3284173:g:b7sAAOSwFYxZ13f7&vxp=mtr To my knowledge, there's 2 different versions of this 'light'. On titanium's & sport's, they actually light up. On SEL's & lower, they do not
  22. No issues with the rotors or pads except maybe better stopping power & far less brake dust. Pretty happy with the purchase & would recommend them to any Gen 2 Owners that can't stand the vast amounts of oem brake dust. The wife took a trip up to Michigan a few months ago & had to make a few 75-0 stops & was very happy with the performance. Would recommend the Centric Blanks & Z231818 pads for someone looking for better stopping power & far less brake dust than oem.
  23. I've been happy with the Z231818 pads & centric blank rotors on my '16 SEL. Way way way less brake dust & better stopping power. My wife had to make several emergency stops (75-0) on a few occasions in Michigan on a trip & she was very happy with the brake pads/rotor combo. No vibration & nice & quiet.
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