lildisco

It collects exhaust gases, moisture & regurgitated oil from the PCV system. Our '16 is in a heated garage & it's around 45 degrees. In the summer months, i barely get anything. Below freezing, it collects much, much more. If you watch the videos in my 1st post, they should explain why you should put a catch can on asap. Remember, they have to prove that your catch can caused your radio to fail

It's a mixture of condensation/water, oil & gas. Been running Mobil 1 & do oil changes approximately every 5,000 miles. Note that i DON'T get nearly this much during the summer months (well, I've officially had the oil catch can a year now). I get very few drops, maybe 5 or so all summer long. Temps drop below freezing, i get what's in the pics above.

Always loved centric Rotors with that coating. You would be the test to see how long the coating will last with as much driving as you do.

Pics got boned by photobucket, let me see if i can find where I stuck them. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/page-1 My 2100 mile pic is at the end of thread.

Or you blew a brake line. Park it somewhere dry & pump the brakes a few times. Then walk around your edge & see if you can see fluid on the ground near your wheels.

I'm in the wifi business & understand the concerns. These are probably best case scenario, but i would imagine adding an additional minute or 2 wouldn't be out of the question. My point being, it's NOT going to take you hours to download 1 Gig of data. I'd say 20-30 minutes tops with an average internet connection.

About 2 minutes & 40 seconds with a 50Mpbs internet connection. 13 minutes & 20 seconds on a 10Mpbs internet connection.

Last i knew, Car Play wasn't compatible with Waze

Drained the catch can, about 2100 miles since I drained last. It's been below freezing for about a month & the last 2 weeks have been below 0 (some nights/mornings below 0) 2.0 Ecoboost FWD. I also washed it while it was hovering around freezing:

Just a tad below 2100 miles since it was last drained (11/2/17), i decided to drain my Catch Can. I was quite surprised by how much came out. The weather has been in the single digits the last few 2 weeks (some nights/mornings in the negative) & this was the result. Very glad that I have a can to catch this junk, 2.0 Ecoboost:

Just a tad below 2100 miles since it was last drained (11/2/17), i decided to drain my Catch Can. I was quite surprised by how much came out. The weather has been in the single digits the last few 2 weeks (some nights/mornings in the negative) & this was the result. Very glad that I have a can to catch this junk:

Wonder if the intake valves are coked over? Do you get any hesitation or missing when you take off? Has your mileage dropped in comparison to when you 1st got it? If you're semi mechanically inclined, I'd pop the intake manifold off & see if you can get a look at the intake valves. I took me under an hour to take my intake manifold off & back on again.

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Just drove from home (by Cleveland, Oh) to Dayton, Oh with some 'decent' snow on the ground. The FWD 2.0 Ecoboost performed well. Saw many 'southern ohio' drivers in the ditches & the edge just kept truckin. Fuel economy did suffer quite a bit, going to get gas later today, but the cluster says that we averaged 23.2mpg,horrible. We had a strong head wind on the way down & was in boost most of the way down. Had a slight headwind/crosswind on the way up as well. Not to mention single digits temps each way. Did see a fellow 1st gen edge owner. He refused to get out of the fast lane when there's cars piled up behind him & no one in front of him. Please don't be that guy people.....

Mine reset after i replaced the battery after my wife left the headlights on all night according to my OBDLink app, BUT i would expect Ford to have the ability to dig deeper into the ECU than a $80 adapter & app.

Doesn't have 2 different fuel maps. They just have adaptive tuning based on what octane you throw in it. It can advance or pull timing based on load, octane, knock etc.

Seems stupid to base it off ignition counter. I know that it resets when you unplug the battery. I think that my OBDLink app has an option for Ignition Counter, i don't recall seeing it in FORScan,but i haven't found/fiddled with all the features of FORScan.

Eeeeeh, what type of mechanics were they? Oil changers? The side effects of coking have been seen on many different vehicles. Audi's, Ford, Volkswagen, etc. Coking is an issue with Direct Injection as there is no 'recommended' way to clean the intake valves. The back side of the valves catch all the oil & 'junk' spit out from the pcv system & then get baked onto the back of the valve. Using a Top Tier gas station is DEFINITELY recommended. I do think that the Top Tier term isn't as 'elite' as it used to be,but the benefits of using a Top Tier gas station has been proven. A catch can isn't going to void your warranty. If purchased from a reputable source (not ebay knockoffs), installed & mounted properly, the can shouldn't even be noticed by the average person. Also, they have to PROVE that the catch caused something to fail. Like for example, the sun roof failed to open, welp you have a catch can installed, sorry, your warranty is voided. Nope, isn't going to happen. Having said that, I've seen warranties voided before, but it was quite obvious that the component in question did cause a particular part to fail. The occasional "Italian Tune Up" also doesn't hurt, but you have to realize that these ecoboost turbos are being used a lot more than what you might think. Pretty much every take off (when not driving like a granny) you're in boost. Going up a hill, you're in boost. Passing someone, yep, you guessed it, in boost. These smaller engines with turbos work harder because they're designed to. It's just that pesky PVC & emission systems that regurgitate all that nasty stuff back into the intake to be burned off & it gets baked onto the intake valves. Changing your oil before the car recommends it OR around 5,000-7,000 miles also helps as also with Direct Injection, there's oil dilution. Some unburnt fuel makes it to the oil with compounds with the other coking issues. Fresh oil, preferably a reputable company such as Mobil 1,also keeps things 'fresh & clean(er)'. What all of this boils down to is personal preference. If you plan on keeping the car for years passed the factory warranty, i would recommend installing a catch can. If you're going to trade it in at or around the time the warranty expires, then i wouldn't worry about installing one. I had a friend trade in her 2.0 Ecoboost Escape around 60,000 miles because it was stuttering under light acceleration & would hesitate on take offs. Both known issues related to coking. She didn't want to pay to have the intake taken apart & the intake valves cleaned. I'm 99% certain that the dealership cleaned up the exterior & sent it out to be sold within a week & didn't address those issues. The issues are there, it's up to you on how you want to proceed.

My lugs are torqued to ~95 ft/lbs, probably at 100. I've had 0 issues with vibration or wheel wobble. 165ft/lbs seems very excessive. I use a torque stick on my impact & then a torque wrench to get around 95 ft/lbs. Re checked after a few hundred miles, still at/above 95 ft/lbs. The stock chrome lugs did bend/flatten out the when i tried to torque them down with a impact. Had to pound a socket on with a Dead Blow hammer & replaced with an aftermarket brand. Have 0 issues with them. 2016 SEL FWD with Chrome 18's.(Wife loves them,i HATE them,you know how it is)

You can save POI's along your route. The Nav System will automatically route you to the fastest route, unless you choose differently in its settings. Such as avoiding tolls, ferries, & highways. I don't think there's a way to program a specific way, unless you program way points/stops prior to leaving. To my knowledge, the Nav System can save the address, not necessarily the route, but you can change the route by adding way points/stops. To knowledge, there is no way to export the route to a thumb drive/laptop.

They wanted $100 to change the cabin air filter & engine air filter in my mom's 2012 fusion. Both can be had for under $25 with Motorcraft parts on Amazon. $75 to install 2 components that take less than 5 minutes to change out total. Can't remember if it requires tools to pop open the cabin air filter or not, but i don't think so.

I believe that Ford used Low friction rings for better fuel economy, which allows oil to get passed the rings much easier. I've had several people who had ecoboosts with over 50,000 miles begin to experience hesitation & stuttering on take offs. Ford doesn't want to admit that there is a problem with Direct Injection & have to pay for valve cleaning as, to my knowledge, haven't come up with a solution for this yet.

$900 USD is quite high. I forget the exact numbers, but i want to say that i was under $500 including installation. I find that i accumulate more in the winter than in the summer months. Between my wife & i, we don't usually drive like a-holes, so maybe that's why we don't accumulate much. My CX7 2.3L Direct Injection picks up A LOT of blow by & junk, but i tend to drive like an a-hole driving it, but it's 'quick' to me.

Several threads on this: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17376-direct-injection-and-carbon-buildup/?fromsearch=1 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22636-2016-edge-sport-catch-can-installed/?fromsearch=1 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/?fromsearch=1 Tuned or not, blow by, coking, carbon build up are issues with direct injection. A oil catch can will reduce the effects of this. Constant flogging with exasperate the effects of the above issues.

2.0 Has more TQ than the 3.5, the 3.5 has more HP than the 2.0. 2.0 has 245 bhp @5500 & 275 lb·ft @3000 & the 3.5 has 280 bhp @6500 & 250 lb·ft @4000. Both have their 'issue's, 3.5 has the throttle body issues, 2.0 has coking issues. If you're going to tow a lot, i'd look into the 3.5, but the 2.0 can tow as well, just you'll be in boost more. You'd have to see which one suits your lifestyle.