lildisco

Just as an announcement, Amazon & Advanced Auto are having a sale on the 20oz Chevron Techron Fuel Cleaner. I picked up 4 bottles. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00092893E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=7da14438b5fb11e8966952891ca1aa110INT&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 https://slickdeals.net/f/12031871-amazon-com-has-20oz-chevron-techron-concentrate-plus-fuel-system-cleaner-on-sale-for-6-99

Wow, i got my winter set of wheels for like $800 2 years ago, now they're over $1,000, sheesh! I went with OEM 18 wheels (no chrome) & tires. I believe that it came from a company in Michigan & i live in Ohio. Only 'issue' i had was the tpms sensor learning process. I would drive around for a week & it wouldn't learn the new tpms/wheels. I ended up with FORScan and it helps to learn the new tpms. Maybe keep an eye out on ebay/Craigslist for a deal. They'll pop up around October/November.

Sync 3 is a much better interactive system over the previous versions. You also get the ability to run Android Auto & Apple Car play (apple has to have the usb hub swapped out to work). Having Android Auto gives you the ability to also use apps like Waze from your smart phone, even if you don't have built in Nav.

2016+ has Sync 3 & mainly the same options. Minimum i would go would be an SEL, but the Titanium is worth it if you can find 1 wit the options you want & a good price. I have the 2.0 & it's been a nice engine. Ours is FWD, so obviously not quite the same as your looking for, but the fuel economy is decent & power is great. Reliability hasn't been seen yet as the twin scroll 2.0 hasn't been out long enough, but I'd imagine that it's pretty good. Keep up on your oil changes & maintenance and it should last you a long time.

Possibly, but would be cheaper with FORScan. Just need a laptop & OBD2 adapter & download Forscan which is free.

That can be reprogrammed with FORScan if you want

Do you not have a rear power point between the front seats

Not sure what your point is? A little bit of Oil is supposed to go into the intake for lubrication? Adding AR6900-P MAX will neutralize the effects of this? This doesn't appear to be available in the US.

Yes i know seasonal changes can effect what the can catches. The can collects vapor from the crankcase/PCV, wether its oil/gas/water/combination of all, & then it condensates on materials in the can & collects it in the bottom portion of the can. So, I'm not 100% sure what you're trying to say with your above comment. Cars that are constantly in high rpm's or have a constant heavy load on the engine, will have blow by, which is vented back through the intake manifold & coke on the back of the valves because of the heat from combustion chamber. The purpose of the can is catch most/all of this before its injected back into the intake.

I know my 2016 SEL has configurable DRL's. I'm on mobile & can't see your location, but is DRL mandatory in your area? I believe that mine is on the left side menu under settings & lighting

A TSB is "Hey if this is the problem, this is likely the fix. Follow these procedures to verify" If you're not under warranty, then the cost is on you to fix. A Recall is where the dealership/Ford fixes the issue free of charge.

Kinda been discussed before. Ford did make you buy the whole entire panel at first, but now you can buy the individual clips. Can't remember where the threads are on this, but unfortunately, you're not the 1st.

i knew that the gas station thing would come up. believe it or not, i used the exact same gas stations on the way home, so that's not it. All Exxon gas stations till I got home then it was Sunoco. I understand what you're saying, but the computers have the ability to relearn all kinds of things, atmospheric conditions, shift points, driver input etc. If the computer would only be set once & adjust itself over a greater period of time, kinda like what you're implying, why does have it to relearn those parameters if say you change out the battery over a few miles? And yes, completely unscientific, but I have done this several times & have noticed an increase each time. (I just forget about doing it when i swap over my winter/summer wheels.) I also noticed that my LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) was around 8-9% on the way down to SC, but after the ECU Reset & several hours of driving, my LTFT were around 3-4%. Again, there's no ill effects if you do this, minus the possibility of harder shifts, throttle input, etc, for a few miles while the ECU re-learns driving patterns, even states this in the Owners Manual.

It's never really learned the waterpro's driving style, it has 37k+ miles of the previous owners driving style. There is really no harm in reseting the ecu. It just has to re-learn a few parameters & adjust a few things accordingly. I have to do it every spring because my mpg is worse because of winter blend & my wife's driving style (long periods of idling to warm up, etc) Why on a 1,800 mile road trip all highway, could i only get 26-27mpg in 65 degree weather & no a/c running going down to sea level , but got 29mpg+ coming back up to Ohio while running the A/C? The only difference being resetting the ECU. There's no catastrophic things that happen when you reset the ECU. It just forces the computer to re-learn the now instead of the previous period. Are there a few inconveniences? Sure, like slightly harder shifting for a few miles & not being able to pass echeck (if you still have that in your area) for a day or 2.

If you haven't already done so, check your tire pressures, i usually keep mine around 37-38psi. Also disconnect your positive battery cable for 30-40 minutes to reset the ecu. I could barely achieve 26-27mpg on a trip down to south carolina from ohio. I reset the ecu about 3/4 of the way back up to ohio & my mpg went up about 3-4mpg. I was averaging 32mpg in the hills of West Virginia, but hit rain & traffic in Ohio & brought it down to 29.7, manually calculated. When you reset the ecu, your edge will take a few miles to relearn its shift points & other variables (basically learns your driving style). I'd recommend that you do this on a good solid highway run, like an 1-2 hours straight highway run. But, realistically, 20-40 minutes on the highway should be fine.

My 2.0 Ecoboost SEL gets close to 600 miles (965 km) to a tank all highway. It averages around 25.6mpg overall, but on all highway it's 28-29mpg. Right now, i have nearly 200 miles to a 1/4 tank

Not sure if i can/could justify the 70/cent + a gallon for 93. Don't get me wrong, i understand that 93 will give me the best gains, but our Edge is really only a to/from work & travel car. Drive ability would be nice as i often find myself in sport mode for quick maneuvers. Did you notice if boost was increased? I believe that I've seen a 21psi spike before. I'm slightly more interested in the LTFT. The edge sits around 8-9% (been awhile since I've looked) which is a bit high IMO. The exhaust tips also say that it's running a bit rich as well.

I've been waiting for a tuning option to become available, i don't see any information on their website for the 2.0 Ecoboost. Do you have any information? Cost? Ease of install? 87, 91, 93 octane tune? Mpg increase? Throttle response?

Pads & rotors are different from a regular edge. I'd imagine that 19's might be the minimum, but not 100%

If you're looking at what it says under fuel economy, then it averages every tank since the car came off the assembly line. I typically reset trip 1 every fill up & don't touch trip 2 to get an average. Also, as i recently found out during a trip to South Carolina & back to Ohio, it helps to reset the ECU when the season changes. I couldn't get much over 26mpg. Reset the the ecu & my mpg went up to around 29. I'm now getting around 27-28mpg to where i was getting maybe 24-25. The temps have been around 70-80 for the last month or so & the my average mpg's has also gone up. Assuming that your from Texas, so you don't usually get summer & winter mix. You can also try to increase your psi in your tires 3-4psi might also help your mileage (assuming that you don't exceed your tires max psi). I should also mention that I have a 2016 2.0 Ecoboost FWD.

Never get exhaust smell inside on any acceleration & recirculating. 1st pic is drivers side 2nd is passenger side. Both are approximately same location on each side of the hatch

I'd say normal. 2016 SEL

This times Eleventybillion! NOBODY at a dealership will wash ANY of our cars. No way! It always cracks me out when people toss in free car washes. IF (that's a HUGE IF) they offered a touchless w/ underbody wash, i might consider it. I've seen these tools drop rags on the floor, & just grind the dirt/debris into paint. Absoluetly not & hope other people take notice & refuse the wash, unless they're touchless & have competent people operating it.

It'd probably be cheaper too! My wife noticed the difference right away, she knew i wasn't going to go OEM. There's also the added bonus of much much less brake dust. On my SEL, there was no need to take the caliper bracket off. The caliper just rests on it. I believe that the front rotors & pads were under $200 & they have a black coating on them that resists corrosion. But to each their own

If you're going to do it, why not go with a quality brand like Centric for Rotors & either Hawk or another quality ceramic pads? If you're already replacing the brakes, then the OEM isn't for you. I replaced the OEM rotors & pads on my non sport 2nd gen with Centric Rotors & Z23 Evolution pads & i have much less brake dust & better stopping power. Unless you damage the caliper bracket when you remove it, there's no need to replace it.