lildisco

Better off to check the oil level after the car has sat overnight. Bet you're a little low.

All i get

Basically, you're going to cut/splice or add into the line going from the engine block to the intake manifold. You basically want to put it in between the engine block & intake manifold. The length of the lines going to the catch can doesn't really matter, so that you can mount it anywhere you have the space. The purpose of the 3 line system is to also catch blow by during boost & vacuum.

This may be helpful: Clicky Clicky

Your paint code should be on the sticker on the drivers side door

Several of us have been waiting since 2016 or earlier for map updates. They haven't come. Only way would be through a Ford Dealer or through here: https://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD

If you're interested in my brake swap, here's what i did: Clicky Clicky Car is doing fine, swapped out the rear rotors with the same style that are on the front, Centric Premium Rotors. From Centric's website: Centric premium rotors utilize an Electrocoating finish that provides long lasting corrosion protection. E-coating is a superior electro-statically applied finish designed to withstand 400 hours of salt water exposure without rusting. Phosphate finishes utilized by other manufacturers provide only minimal protection from the elements; these finishes are generally only effective for the shipping and storage portion of a rotor’s life. The addition of heat and moisture eliminates the effectiveness of phosphate finishes resulting in immediate corrosion once installed in the vehicle.

If those pic are of the rear caliper, I'm so glad i painted mine. I've changed all 4 corners out on my '16 SEL & didn't run into any problems. Went with Centric Rotors with the special black coating to keep the rust & flaking down.

Traction control can be disabled in the left side of your menu, i believe under settings. There's also a display on the instrument cluster that shows you how much power is being sent the rear wheels. I would also look to see what tires you have. If you have High Performance summer tires, then your winter traction will be next to nothing. My bet would have been traction control was going crazy because of the snow/ice under your car. There should have been a dash light indicator if abs/traction control was kicking in. If you have it, i would suggest reading the owners manual & get more familiar with your vehicle. If not available, you might be able to download a copy from fordowner.com

I've had something similar with my 2.0 Ecoboost if the oil isn't to the full mark. It usually would only last for a few seconds. The oil mark on the 2.0 Ecoboost is the top hole, not the line. Not sure if the 2.7 is similar or not

XTRA, that's horrible. I don't know what to say, except that i hope that everyone affected is evacuated safely. Property can be replaced. On a much lighter note, i reluctantly swapped over to my winter wheels today after several counties decided to coat the roads with salt like there's an endless supply ? Also added a good'ol coat of fluid film on the underbody. Ran out of fluid film & had to order more. Will get the doors, hinges & other areas later in the week.

Depending on the severity of the damage, i would get an alignment. Light curb rash usually doesn't require an alignment, but if she did enough damage to warrant a WHEEL replacement, then I would DEFINITELY get an alignment to cover all the bases. These newer vehicles are so tight within their specs, a big curb hit could knock it out of spec (which can also be said for pretty much every vehicle). I'd plan on, at minimum & based solely on your description, 1 wheel replace & 4 wheel alignment. You may possibly need 2 new front tires, depending on the severity of the damage, which a tire shop should be able to tell you whether or not you need one.

Says that they sucked it out & refilled. I'd check fluid with a white zip tie to co firm new fluid in there.

Do you have a voltage tester? See what the battery is doing when the vehicle is running? Should be around 14 volts running & around 12 volts not running. Obviously it isn't going to test amperage, but it 'almost' sounds like the motor for the power lift gate isn't working, weather it's not got enough power or the motor is bad. When you hit the button by the steering wheel & the hazards flash, that usually indicates that the lift gate should open, does on mine. Do you hear like a gear turning when you open & close the lift gate manually? I can usually hear it when it's opening & closing manually or automatically. It's not like the typical 'hissing' noise from the struts when you open or close the lift gate. BUT, i've heard if you slam the lift gate down too hard or force it to open or close, this could damage the gears in the lift motor. Whether or not this is true, i don't know. If all else fails, i would maybe try to pull the Negative Battery cable off for 5 minutes or so & reset the computer & things & see if that fixes it. IF that doesn't work & your car is still under warranty, it's off to the dealer.

True, lol. Based on your driving style, i'd not go too much over 5,000 miles between oil changes. If you're mostly highway cruising, you could probably stretch it another 1,000 miles or so, but if you're mostly in stop & go city traffic, i wouldn't go above 5,000 miles.

Mact's stuff is based on a 3.5V6 & not the 2.0, but yes, should have been done a long time ago. I use Mobil 1 & a motorcraft filter. You can can a motorcraft filter from Walmart for under $5 & 6qts of mobil 1 for under $35,so roughly $40 an oil change. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24236-diy-oil-changes/?fromsearch=1

Those fog lights look amazing. What all did you have to do to get them to work? Special parts from Europe?

You can use the H9 bulb, just need to modify 1 tab & the light output is much better than stock H11 output. Is it HID? No. Is the H9 conversion a good mod for under $30? Yes.

FWD vs AWD

Usually, if you're not sure what they are, you can click on them & it gives you a brief description of what it is.

When you read the codes, there should be an option on the bottom of that page that says to clear codes.

I ended up with the non chrome oem 18's on my SEL. Tires & TPMS sensors was like $800 shipped to my door. Pretty sure that you browse Craigslist or ebay & find a set. I'm pretty sure that the was also a slight bolt pattern change, not sure what year, so older edge wheels won't fit. If i was you, I'd look for 2015+ wheels. They usually show up around this time of year, just before winter.

Pretty sure if you search my username & catch can, you can find it quite easily, but here you go: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/page-2

Nearly 6 months to the day... Replacing the cabin air filter again..... Bought 3 from Tousely Ford Parts for cheaper than ebay or Amazon,$55 for 3 shipped to my door. $31 on Amazon & $20 on ebay for 1.