lildisco

Yes, done so for years. I put a bottle (20oz?, i can't remember) every 3,000 miles or so.

Direct Injection & boost (turbo). Most manufacturers will run a boosted vehicle more 'rich' to decrease the chances of Detonation. It's better to run a little rich than lean. When in boost, which you're nearly always in on take offs & passing, the engine requires more fuel. To lesson the chance of running lean & potentially destroying the engine, manufacturers run the cars more on the rich side to prevent this. A tune will help lesson this, but will not eliminate it. I myself went on a road trip & notice soot on the exhaust pipes, but not terrible. I recently got a tune from Livernois tuning & it's brought the soot down dramatically (my LTFT, Long Term Fuel Trim, was at 6% or under most of the trip. Saw a lot of 1's & 3's compared to 9's & 10's prior to the tune). Another factor is the fuel you use. All fuel isn't created equal. Check out TopTiergas.com & find a station that is certified with it, it will be beneficial in the long run. I do use Mothers Metal polish occasionally to brighten up the tips from time to time, but usually, they clean up nicely after going through the self car wash using a pressure washer.

Achieved this on a road trip. AFE dry flo filter & LMS 87 tune. Wasn't trying too hard, around 50 - 65 degrees with a/c off tires around 39psi. 2016 2.0 Ecoboost FWD:

Put the Summer Wheels on (OEM 18" Chromes), drained the Catch Can & added some Fluid Film to the underbody while the wheels were off.

Deadblow or blunt object & beat on the tire all around till it pops off. Wheels have 'welded' themselves to the hub. Probably been awhile since they've been rotated or off the vehicle. Dirt, debris, moisture, rust have made their way behind the wheel & hub. Just good old fashioned elbow grease & a dead blow hammer should help it off.

3+ years on our 2016 SEL & I've never torqued them over 105 ft/lbs. You'll be fine going lower than recommended spec. I believe that a lot of dealerships don't torque the wheels much past 110 ft/lbs either.

Newer cars, especially turbo'd vehicles, are very particular on the quality of the fuel they use. I have noticed a 5mpg decrease using lesser quality fuel in my 2.3L CX7 which is turbo'd, on Speedway gas. My 2.0 Edge gets better mileage with Exxon gas, than any other station around me. So yes, there is a difference in fuel standards across gas stations. You could try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes & then drive it for a few days & see if it makes a difference. You can also bring it up to your dealer & see if there's an TSB or update to the shifting tables.

Super doesn't mean Top Tier gas. What brand of fuel are you using? Only certain brands are rated Top Tier.

Depends on a couple of things. Are you sure it's a engine miss or the trans shifting? I know our 2016 2.0 EB when cold shifts funny till it's warm. What kind of fuel are you using. Top Tier is the way to go with EB engines (toptiergas.com). Maybe the lesser quality fuel isn't burning well when the engine is cold but does when the engine is at operating temp? I run Chevron Techron Complete Fuel Cleaner every few months to make sure things are as clean as possible. It also could be a winter fuel mix thing. I know that in Ohio, they don't start putting summer gas in till June.

I think AFE makes a dry flo drop in air filter that's pretty good. Having a cone style filter under the hood with out some sort of heat shield around it isn't going to help much. These things are hot under the hood & you'd suffer from heat soak in the summer months. An oil catch can is also a good thing to have, if your 2.0 Ecoboost doesn't have port injection witch cleans the intake valves. Coking will eventually cause you problems if you don't also have port injection, such as rough idling, bogging off take off & below average fuel economy. Livernois Motorsports is about your only tuning option available. Rumor has it that you don't notice much of an improvement if you dont run 91+ Octane. Shifting is definitely improved as well as throttle response. https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP631154 Exhausts are kinda a custom job as there really isn't much of a market for the 2.0 Edge. Probably better off to visit a muffler shop & get a custom cat back with whatever muffler(s) you want.

Oil & Filter change as well as drained the catch can.... Nasty

Understand, but didn't have any issues with my mom's 04 explorer, my 03 focus, my 08 cx7, my mother in laws 09 cx9. Her 2012 Fusion was only worked on at a dealer until it was out of warranty & that's when i noticed that about 75% of her lugs were destroyed. Naturally, the Ford dealer didn't admit any fault & refused to replace destroyed lug nuts & wanted full price for replacement lugs. 1 of the many reasons i don't dealers.

My Mom's 2012 Fusion & our '16 Edge had these issues. Found a different lug nut set on ebay/Amazon & haven't looked back. I used a torque stick & they still messed up. What a way to continue to get money from people.

6 month update, still crappy looking. Guess I'll stick with 6 month replacement schedule.

Common problem, but not anything I'd never buy another Ford issue. Easiest thing to do is to get a set of splash gaurds on the front to help keep debris out of there...

I think I've seen mine spike 19 & settle to around 17, but if you're going to get a tune, the higher the psi doesn't necessarily mean a better tune. Many different factors come into play with a tune other than boost. Load based tuning is what I use my CX7 & has served me pretty well with temperature changes, air density changes, etc. Soley using psi to tune can give you issues if you're not careful.

Most drilled rotors aren't going to give you more stopping power. The heat dissipation is going to be better with a quality blank rotor than most drilled rotors. You're better off getting a good blank rotor & decent set of pads. I'm a huge fan of Centric Premium Blanks (many auto x's & road races with no warpage). Pads, i usually go with hawk pads. HPS's are good, but you'll get a lof of brake dust. If you're fine with that, they're a really good pad. PowerStop also makes a decent ceramic pad that i had no complaints with either.

Never cut 1 in 1/2 at the bushing, but it'd imagine that its some sort of mechanism that allows that bolt to swivel a little bit as you usually need an allen key to remove it.

sway bar endlinks

Change battery & check if problem is fixed. With everything being sensitive to battery voltage, that's where i would start. Yes, the vehicle is running, but doesn't mean that the battery can support running electronics. There's also a parameter in forscan than resets the battery parameters. Meaning, when the battery is replaced, you reset this so the ecu knows you have a new battery & it changes the charging parameters & whatnot.

All gas isn't created equal. Look for top tier gas stations. Make sure your current on oil changes. How many miles are on the car? If higher, closer to 100,000,id change your plugs. Actually, I'd change them out anyways because you don't know how the other person drove. Another thing would be to try resetting the ecu. Just disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes. Hook it up then let it idle for a few minutes & then drive like normal. The ecu is a learning ecu. If it hasn't been reset since you bought it, it probably has thousands of miles learned from the previous owner(s). Once it learns your driving style, shift points, etc., you should she a few more mpg's. Especially if you're all highway & drive UNDER 70 - 75 mph. Biggest thing is driving style. Medium to hard accelerations are going to be in boost. Boost = more fuel = bag mpg's. Crusing above 70-75 is going to be in boost. But if you cover the basics as i said or stated above, you should see some sort of improvement

It could be a HD Radio thing. I've never heard 1 in my area. I know that they're around, just i live so far from a major city that i don't think i get good reception.

Similar to this minus the oil cap

My 2.0 doesn't sound nearly as loud as that, but to each their own. It usually goes away after a few seconds. I know that when the oil is lower than the full hole, it makes the noises like what you have. Has nothing to do with the Turbo. You only have 1 turbo btw. The only twin turbo edge is the ST & the 2nd gen Sports. You have a twin scroll turbo. Completely different than a twin turbo set up. The only time the turbo really spools up is when you're making boost & you have to be driving to do that. It kinda 'free wheels' when you're not spooling up the turbo making boost, especially at idle. I know multiple people with 2.0's, 2.3's, 6.0's & 7.3's, etc., with turbo's & have never heard of the turbo(s) spooling up at idle or startup. I have heard them kinda air themselves down after the engine is off & that's only been with the 7.3's & 6.0's, never with a 4 cylinder turbo.

Has the car sat overnight? The 2.0 Ecoboost takes some time to get all the oil back to pan. Also, unless they changed it... The full line is the 2nd hole, not the top of lines on the dipstick