lildisco

Year & Model? I find that mine, not factory setup 2020 SEL AWD, comes on when parking lights are on when the doors open or close & stay on for a few seconds after the doors close then go off. That's probably due to the aftermarket trailer wiring kit, Curt, that ties into the the drivers side Taillight with a plug & play harness. I'm not sure about the OEM setup, but I imagine that it's similar.

Stayed home from work to not spread the germs. Worked from home till about 2 & then decided to throw the winter rubber on our 2020 SEL AWD. Had some free time time to undercoat or touch up the undercoating with Fluid Film. Oil life monitor is at 55%, so it's teasing me. If the weather is decent enough tomorrow, I'll clean the summer rubber & then hit it with McKee's 37 Hydro Blue before storage.

Winter Rubber installed on our 2016 SEL. General Tire Altimax 365. Rides about the same as the summer rubber, maybe a little softer ride, only have ~15 miles on them. Also did an oil change while I was at it & drained the Catch Can. OLM was at 49%. Also touched up the winter Undercoating. Only took about 3 cans since there's already a build up of the stuff now. Battling a cold, so it took me a bit longer than normal to complete.

Bought these last year & have 1 mild Ohio winter on them with my 2020 AWD. General Tire Altimax 365. Local tire store recommended them & they've never sold me a bad set, in 15+ years of using them. Didn't get much snow last year so I didn't have the ability to really try them out. The OEMs left me stuck in my mom's driveway when it was below 0 out & I decided that's the last winter for them after 2 years & under 20,000 miles. Don't really have a complaint, except for the price $190/tire. They do have a $100 rebate right now till the 31st. It was also time for winter wheels on our 2016 SEL Fwd this year, so the local tire store also recommended these. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=AltiMAX+365+AW&partnum=46HR8AM365&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2016&autoModel=Edge FWD&autoModClar=SEL

They're sensitive. Assuming that you're referring to 14v while running? What's the battery like when the car isn't running for awhile? You're also checking 1/2 the battery, voltage is 1 thing, but amps are another. Assuming that your car hasn't had the battery changed since new, you're fast approaching a replacement. My 2020 started showing signs of a weak battery when the start / stop function quit working. I've now been putting it on a trickle charger when not in use & everything has been working fine on the original battery. I suggest replacing the battery as well as resetting the Battery Monitoring System. Sounds like you're not too far away from being stranded.

Home Depot having a sale on Fluid Film cans for under $6/can. Just bought out my local Home Depot. In store ONLY https://www.homedepot.com/p/FLUID-FILM-Long-Lasting-Rust-and-Corrosion-Protectant-Lubricant-and-Penetrant-Solvent-Free-Non-Toxic-Non-Hazardous-Lanolin-Based-AS11/311803920?emt_ppq_vfpd

It's sitting ~74,5xx currently, so ~5,500 miles. Shifting seems to be the same, if not a little smother. I don't have any complaints yet. I'd like to see what color it is after another 20k & possibly get an analysis, but that's going to take awhile.

Sounds pretty normal to me. I bought an engine cover to lessen the noise

I have 2 baby blinds in the back to get the Sun out of the kid's eyes. So it makes the back look darker than what it actually is

Pretty sure the rears are 35%, but I could be wrong. I have 35% on my front 2 windows.

What's an aftermarket OEM licensed product? I don't see many manufacturers endorsing another product than OEM, unless it's made by a different company, like Mobil1 & then rebranded as OEM. If you think that I'm arguing with you, I'm not. I'm genuinely curious.

Oh I agree that they're different specs, but I've seen other companies do the same thing

It says Mercon V/LV on the jugs, but are you saying that they didn't actually do the testing to say that?

Booo that stinks. It pops up from time to time. I believe that MacT has reviewed it, but I'm not sure if he's done an analyst of the fluid or not.

Great deal on a 3 pack of LV Fluid. With tax, comes out to ~$18 per jug for me from Amazon: https://a.co/d/1wADj8f

If you did a blind test between the 2.0L Ecoboost, 3.5L Duratec & 2.7L Ecoboost, 99.999% of people wouldn't be able to tell the difference, if not more. The 2.7L Ecoboost would have much more pick up compared to the other 2,but I highly doubt most people would know the difference between the 2.0L Ecoboost or the 3.5L Duratec. It's the old stigmata that people stick to that make them think they need the V6 because of how heavy it is. I bet if you hoped into any edge with the 2.0L or V6 with the same drive train you would not be able to know which engine it has.

Just keep your foot off the brake when you push the start/stop button & you'll be able to have the car on, but not running.

They're usually in the back under specifications. Mine was under rear axle

Not specific for the ST, but should be similar:

I'd check your Owners Manual & verify. Most of the horror stories are from the previous gens that didn't have 'serviceable' components. I believe that you're stuck with only 1 manufacturer, Motorcraft, that makes the RDU fluid, Motorcraft XY-75W-QL disconnect fluid. The PTU has more options available. Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140, aka Smurf Blood, is what I & many others use. Others prefer Amsoil. However, I'm not a Sport/ST so I don't know if they're different or not. I can tell you that I've changed both twice in 31,000 miles. The first fluid change on both had the most material in the oil. When I did the second time, things were much nicer. Both fluid changes are relatively cheap if you do them by yourself. The Motorcraft RDU fluid is ~$40/qt & Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140 is ~$25. Here's my thread on it, but I believe things are going to be slightly different on the ST.

Nearly 13,000 (12,726) mile update. Fluid came out a nice light brown color. Magnet had some dark material on it (which still could have been leftovers from the first drain & fill), but the fluid wasn't nearly has nasty as the 1st time. I did by a cheap Amazon special nearly flat 3/8 wrench that made the job much easier. It was $10 so wasn't too bad. Cleaned off both plugs & refilled. Still had some left from the 1st time I did it as well as a full fresh quart. Nearly took all of the fresh quart, but she's clean & ready to go. I saw on the Maverick forums that they were changing theirs every 5,000 miles, which seems to be extreme, but maybe they haul more than me? Dunno. 'Cheap' insurance at ~$40 quart & 30 minutes of your time.

Not too bad of a deal if you can get it in stock https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-FS-European-Car-Formula-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5W-40-5-Quart-Pack-of-3/389304923?athbdg=L1800&adsRedirect=true

Depends on your driving style. I tow a ZTR Mower in a 5x8 trailer almost every week during the summer months. This year I hauled about ~3,500lbs of mulch twice (about 10 miles one way) from Lowe's. Not very smart, but it was over a short distance & I didn't go over 35mph the entire way. I also haul random other things a few times a year, but towing also shortens the service intervals. The Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is located up by the transmission. Usually gets hot because of the engine bay & heats up the fluid & the fluid breaks down faster. I changed that out to Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140 (Smurf Blood) & it appears to handle the heat & beating I do when towing. I believe that I swapped it out ~18,000 miles & then again ~8,000 miles later & still looked new blue with way less shavings on the drain plug. Rear Drive Unit, RDU, I've only changed once with Motorcraft 75W Disconnect Fluid (only brand compatible with the RDU that I'm aware of). It was pretty nasty & I should probably do it again soon. Transmission has already been discussed, but all depends on usage. I wouldn't go above 30,000 on either of the 3. As far as changing the fluids compared to the previous vehicles you've driven, there's probably a lot more electronics in your steering wheel compared to your entire car of your youths. These electronics have a finer tolerance than your previous vehicles. Tiny amounts of dirt & debris can create havoc on these electronics. Better to have fresh clean fluid, than dirty old broken down fluid.

Preventative maintenance. To my knowledge, there's no filter on these transmissions. Best to change the fluid every 30,000 or before instead of waiting & causing more harm than good. It's relatively easy & cheap for ST's & non ST's to do. Especially for piece of mind. I may do my next flush sooner to get the Valvoline in there instead of the Motorcraft fluid.

Ordered some for my 2020 SEL AWD. Roughly the same cost as Motorcraft, but for whatever reason I prefer Valvoline for transmission fluid. You also need to order in quantities of 6 if you do free shipping.