TourGuide

I know exactly what you mean about access on this - I completed this service myself and ordered this tool to finish the job. Sadly it came after I had finished the job so I didn't actually get to use it this go round - but next time I will. I am pretty sure it will get the job done in similar fashion to the breaker bar above.

The area of software support is an emerging area of concern with auto OEMs and Ford is not an exception. Whether it is plain slow development or dis-investment in the IT infrastructure surrounding the tech - the result is the same - long wait times and problems that sometimes end up in a que of other problems needing solutions. It is hard to say where the pipeline problem exists that holds these things up. Ford has changed sync development platforms a couple of times I think - and this splits development tracks I think into different paths. Some of which are closed loops presently (think original sync - no rhyme intended). With Ford - at least we still have access to Car Play and Android Auto. I refuse to get into a model of in car entertainment that contains a dash system with an ongoing service charge (I'm looking at YOU GM!). This is the direction GM and other OEMS are looking to go and it is just another way for us to become revenue streams. I for one am not excited about this idea.

I picked up my 19 today after having the front struts, mounts, and rubber isolators replaced as well as the right side control arm in order to service the ball joint on that side. Front end clunk noises are now gone and I'm happy with the results.

I had the work completed on the struts and strut mounts as well as also having the right side control arm replaced in order to service a bad ball joint on that side. Noises are gone and things are back to like new.

I have chased this noise on two Ford vehicles - an MKC (Escape) and this Edge I am driving now. Today I am having the parts cannon unloaded on my Edge and having the struts, mounts, strut bearings, and all related noise isolators replaced. I will let you know if this fixes the problem. I suspect that the culprit is really the mount bearings, but I am trying to get to a solution - so we shall see.

If I were you - I would seek out another dealership service department. Where I am - there are dealers I will not use unless I absolutely HAVE to do so - and even then it is no more than an oil change. My purchasing dealer owes me the first 3 - so I am using them for that. For the front suspension clunk I have been chasing I have ZERO faith that this same dealership would - a.) Be able to correctly diagnose this issue. - AND OR - b.) Advocate for me as a warranty item (they - as other dealers do I am sure - point to Ford as the denier of claims and say - hey nothing we can do here - shrug. So in attempting to solve this - I'm going to a dealer 20 miles away to replace the struts, mounts, and etc because of the trust factor. This second dealer has performed work with good results for me in the past - full boat retail - but fine by me for quality execution and customer service. I am salty about my local dealer's operation because I had an established relationship with one of the service advisors then he left for an independent shop - now it feels like a sales pitch cluster every time I walk in there. On the upside I did purchase from them so there is that.

Unfortunately no pictures - sorry. Yes - the plastic panels on the rear hatch are the ones I gave the treatment. I mostly followed the procedure found in this video. I did not add the sound mat material but that would have been even better - also I did use some 1 mm single sided foam tape between plastic to plastic and plastic to metal edges. It was more time, but was worth it I think. I used this tape. Surprises here were how loose the OE pins had become in their slots. The window weld really made a difference and was worth the effort.

Wow - that is a lot of shavings on that magnet. What model year do you drive?

I stand corrected again. I guess I should know that since I had formerly driven a 16.

I believe there ARE alternative - better - and less expensive alternatives for the PTU fliud. It doesn't take much - not even a full quart. I referred to what I used above - which complies with for spec for the PTU. The RDU is another matter and there is only Ford fluid for that. Suck out and refill is an imperfect solution - but I did find a local shop that only charged me .5 hour labor if I supplied the fluid - so I would suggest trying to find a shop you trust that would do that. Fair warning - you also may want to verify that the service was performed by looking for witness marks etc - which means some hassle for you. The value of this is in knowing your set for the next 20k or so on the clock. Important when no warranty coverage has your back.

Today I buttoned up the work on the rear hatch body panels. They were really rattling and chattering going down the road. After pulling everything apart it was clear why that was happening. The push pins were just sloppy and worn. My fix for this problem (which did work) was to replace the clips and wrap each re-inserted replacement base in a bit of 3M window weld. I also did get just a bit of window weld on the push pin side at the insertion point which I think will help long term. Yes this was a pain and did take a few minutes to accomplish. The result was well worth the effort I can confirm. Now the only noise I get from the cabin really is the BAMR - which I think is perhaps just how it will be given body flex and so forth. I will look at it - but I think that is just what it is. Very happy I did this.

I completed the drain and fill on the RDU today. Allow me to cast my vote at this time for physically coercing all engineers (if necessary) into removing the fasteners and plugs they design and place. Furthermore - they should be allowed only a standard set of tools when having to do this. I think this idea could be big - as in a new reality show... Can I get an AMEN?!

In this case - this will be a full drain then refill with the OE fluid - which is a sucker punch at ~$50 per quart.

Thanks for your reply - I think I will be making the switch and doing the job myself. Appreciate the feedback. My research was incomplete on this and have always trusted Red Line products - they have never failed me.

My 2019 ST has a PTU cooler and no drain plug - THANKS Ford! So the suck out and replace was as far as I felt like taking it expense wise for now. Red line does make compatible fluids for both of the applications. I used this for the RDU - and - this for the PTU Ester base stock (even if in name barely) I consider better options than OE. This unit is past warranty, but I do have an extended warranty to cover anything big.

Recently had my 19 rustproofed and had the paint high speed buffed then waxed. Came out nice. In addition I had the RDU and P"TU serviced (PTU as much as could be sucked out then refilled). I used Red Line fluids for this. Also replaced the cabin air filter with a WIX mutilayer - the OE was pretty dirty. Going to handle the rattles from the rear lift gate when I have time to pull the body panels and give it the treatment.

That sounds like the standard corporate line from Ford. I wouldn't believe it if I were you. Then again - it may be unimportant to YOU - if you are not planning on keeping this ride long term. Since I am planning to buy my Edge out at the end of the lease - I put this oil in the PTU at around 12,000 miles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPI5YG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It also may be unimportant to you if you are planning to purchase a Ford ESP warranty. In either of those cases - pfft - who cares?

A lawsuit probably isn't the way to deal with this - but adjusting the retail value of a NAV system that comes with a STATIC map database would be better. I'd like to suggest a more appropriate price of say $49.99 for the entire system.

Would this be an action against Ford or the map provider for the sync 3 system? It really makes the system more of a 'backup' type option - and a pretty poor one at that given the coverage of the base maps. They should have just gone with Google maps as other OEMs have done. None of these similar systems is perfect in spite of what some people will say. They all have their routing snafu moments baked in - based on the database and the routing engine.

For me the V3.0 update (there was another that appeared since then) brought the home screen heated steering button. I think for some builds certain features are rolled out in different revisions - which seems strange to me - but then I don't really know much about the inner workings of the sync interface. My comments here do not apply to the ST by the way - I have a 16 sport.

The heated steering button is a sync3 update - which you can get via a wifi download or a dealer install I imagine (I did the wifi option on mine). After the update is appears on the home screen of sync. For the life of me I cannot understand how that made it through qa testing as it most certainly should have come out that way from the start.

Curious here Mac about the choice of Royal Purple over the Redline Lightweight Shockproof. While the Royal Purple is certainly better than the Motorcraft - isn't the Redline an even better still choice?

Nope.

Hate isn't the right word - three things I wish were true about my 16. 1.) More control over sound (more equalizer settings) ought to be a given in a supposedly 'premium audio' package. 2.) I enjoy the auto-dimming driver side mirror, but come on - how about both sides instead of just one?! 3.) Seat comfort in this vehicle isn't that great. I personally would like for the driver seat to be a bit more firm. It feels like I'm going to have to have that worked on before the Edge and I part ways.

Where money is no object these tires are great in climates that get snow. They will most likely be my next set.