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Just for clarity sake mine went fine but I did sit in the car and open and close my door so the sync system did turn off first then waited the 6 minutes. I also used the bottom USB port if that matters.

AA requires a usb connection always. It uses USB for ui data and Bluetooth for audio, yeah it does seem dumb but it is probably to seemesly integrate the basic car functions into the stock head units.

Uploading... MEGA one too. Do you have a hash for this one to? EDIT: Link to NON nav https://mega.nz/#!6s4wnQLD!UlQUbjGYSNL9i7PSra32ousYioxFk6ivDoar_P4SQvg

1. Should not as it does not damage the car but of course if it goes wrong then they can say it was on you maybe but I think it would be hard pressed. 2. Probably eventually. 3. We are using it with AA after the update fine you need the new USB hub only if you want to also use CP. After the update you have to go to settings and enable AA that took me forever to figure out as my phone would connect but not show anything on the screen once that is toggled the phone will recognize the car.

Same.

Missed this post glad she is okay. I have made another mirror of the NAV version since it took forever to get it and the google ones are currently down. Make sure to check the Hash as on Jason's previous post. https://mega.nz/#!GhZRyDgb!AAM04HkOIQK4Rq89gUffnOB95vCSNvQOyyq5tubBUss Malcolm

So if we flash this one and ford releases it on the owners site to download and it is different can we flash their "official" one over it if needed? Also excellent idea with the hash's that is a much needed thing to display. This is the file the dealer would install if you went in correct? Thanks for your time and efforts on this update. Malcolm

does it look like the update will be dealer done only now, even if we just want it for aa?

She does it look like the update will be dealer done only now, even if we just want it for aa.

I do hope they keep their promise and the update can be done over wifi.

That number is for sure some internal thing, but this site with your vin can tell you the build date and everything else. http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.doMine is 24.02.2016 It is probably also on the window sticker at the bottom I bet.

How does one read this man date lol? I can't find a site breaking down how to parse it.

I have always had the car adaptive mode in sport under the menus since the first week I got it with 28 miles on it. I recently took a trip to Kansas from CA and then back through CO, WY, UT, and CA. I was visiting my relatives in CO and at night went to move the car off the street for the night and got the error then parked it on the driveway having to obviously turn the wheel way more then normal, preceded to turn off the car and start it again multiple times never making it turn off the light and no codes in engineering mode either. Went to bed, next morning it was okay (steering felt firm and ratio changed again) and no error and I drove the 500+ miles back to CA. Next day back I got it again starting the car to get gas and went and got gas then stopped off at the dealer to find that I was still on Mountain time (oops) and they were closed so I tried turning off the car and was like why not and while it was off tried to make the car lock the wheel and it felt like it got stiffer but never locked in place (Does it even lock?) and after the stiffer feel I started the car and I have not had the error since so it seems more software for me as the wheel never had any grinding or codes that it stored. Here are picks I took of it when I remembered to along with my manufacture date. Malcolm

So I have a MY16 edge sport and the backs of the front seats don't cool but my bottom of the seats got ice cold on just setting 2 now today my passenger and I noticed it doesn't seem to cool at all even on 3 now(1 used to be very cold by it self). Is this due to the same issue as the seat back? The ac of the car was ice cold though and it was only 84f outside.