ugoleftillgorite

Sorry for the late reply, the product page that I bought mine from now shows the part number you received.

To each their own. Feel free to link the other post here so that people that see this one see the route you took.

Thanks! I got mine from Amazon as well. I just went back to the product page and it now shows the part number that you got. It may be just different enough that it does require a dealer "configuration," but that's just speculation on my end. What was your original PN?

Mine was 99% plug and play. I did not have backup lines previously and they didn't show up with the new camera, but it doesn't bother me enough to have the dealer try to fix it. I would try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to force a full reboot on the system before taking it to the dealership. If you are especially cheap (like me! haha), maybe try a software update as well. Hopefully one of those things will help it see the camera!

I bought it used and it didn't have the lines to begin with. I need to get the master code for my keypad door locks anyways (which requires a dealer visit/computer plug in), so I will see what they think when I bring it in for that. Any details you can give me on the reprogram process would be appreciated as the service manager seemed baffled by my backup camera woes.

Thanks, in retrospect I wish I had taken better pictures but I think most people can figure it out from this. Not sure what you mean by "straight ahead," sorry if I didn't get the joke or something.

The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools. Tools needed: 7/16" open end wrench 7/16" socket #2 Phillips screwdriver T20 Torx screwdriver Thin common screwdriver for prying Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets Overview: To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera. Step 1: Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel. Step 2: On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside. Step 3: Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it. Step 4: Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud. Step 5: This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit. Step 6: Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera. Step 7: Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place. Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!