Bobs2015EdgeSport

UPDATE: My local Ford dealer took the pan off a second time, and this time, they actually followed the above bulletin and (a) let the open crankcase drain overnight, then (b) installed yet another oil pan and RTV sealer, and then (c) let it sit and cure for 24 hours before refilling it with new oil. (Total time in shop this second time around: 5 full days). As I've only driven it home (10 miles Tops) and then parked it (over a week ago now), I don't know if this is going to work or not. However, a follow-up "customer service survey" discussion with their service manager yielded no real hope of a future (and more permanent) fix for the problem! He said that, while Ford is obviously aware of the extent of the problem, he "doubted" that they were really working on a more permanent solution to it, and couldn't even begin to offer an explanation as to why Ford would not make this a priority to get resolved. In the meantime, my Extended Service Plan will likely continue to cost them the big bucks, at least until I might decide to trade it in on something that doesn't have the same engine in it!

jmr061... by any chance do you happen to have the TSB number (or other reference number) that Ford has associated/assigned to the statement that you first shared above? I was going through my AllData database, and cannot find this one in their TSB listing for my 2015 Sport. IF it applies to my vehicle, I wanted to print it out and take it in to the dealership next week... along with the actual TSB number, for their reference. Thanks!

Actually, you do make a point, as I have seen plastic valve covers on top of engines and they seem to do OK... so why not these? I do think that you're right, in that there are "so many questions" that apparently are still unanswered!

After only 18,000 miles on my 2015 Edge 2.7 Sport (all that time with a perfectly dry engine), my oil pan suddenly started to leak all over.... and only 3 months after my original warranty had expired! (Fortunately, I have a Ford ESP service contract, so they get to pay for everything going forward). Anyway, the dealer had it for 3 days, and followed the Ford repair manual to the letter; yet I just discovered only 3 days after having it back that it has once again started leaking again, this time from the area of one of the pan bolts (yes, it is tight)! I suspect that they were unaware of the "wait-time" recommendation given above here (but I will make it known to them)! You can imagine my frustration, since this is my only daily driver. My stepson is a Ford mechanic, and he says that the problem is that they're putting a plastic oil pan up against a metal alloy engine block, which results in different expansion and contraction rates, thereby causing the problem to reoccure over and over. He says that, until Ford wises-up and replaces it with an all-metal replacement part, we can all expect the issue to continue. I believe he is correct, as my previous Ford (a 2011 Escape) had a similar-looking oil pan on the engine in that car, but it was actually made out of cast aluminum, not plastic, and it NEVER had a single leak in the 4 years that I had it. I never imagined when I picked it up the other day, that I would now waiting for a callback from my Ford service writer, to make yet another appointment to have them take yet another look at their work... especially since this car has been great (and trouble-free) up until now!

They're original 20" alloy OEM rims from Ford, in black powdercoat finish...

I currently have a similar problem going on... Before, my 2015 Sport FWD would run dead-smooth, up to 100 mph... but then, I put together a set of winter tires, and there was soon a very subtle "shaking" around 50 to 55 mph (that would go away at 60+ mph. No feeling of shaking under 50 nor over 60... just within that 50-60 range. So, I had the winter tires and rims checked again for balance and no issues there. So, to prove to myself that it was indeed the steel rims and tires, I put my original 20" allow wheels back on... but now, the subtle "shaking" is still there (even though it was NOT present before trying on the winter set)! So, this is kinda leading me to think that it is something else that just conincidentally happened to start around the time I first changed-out the rims and tires... and now it continues where it was not present before (and does it while trying two different sets of wheels & tires). As I only have just under 19K miles on the thing, I am at a loss as to what the cause might be. I am always very easy on using the brakes, so there is no apparent issue (no pulsating at the pedal) with warping the rotors. Checking all four hubs show that they are smooth and quiet. My latest thought was if maybe one of the drive axles (front CV joints) might somehow now be out of balance (although they still look brand-new)? Otherwise, I am so far at a loss...

If anybody is interested, I WAS able to replace a stud on the front AND the back hubs, without doing anything more than temporarily moving the caliper assemblies aside, and rotating the hubs to a particular position... to a spot where Ford had actually put a little dimple in the hub area, to just barely give you enough room to pop-out the old one (a hammer removed the old one), and then I used open-ended "sacrificial" lug-nuts to pull and seat the new studs all the way into position. Pretty easy-peasey!

I was wondering if anybody has tried (successfully) to remove and replace a cross-threaded wheel stud on a 2015 Edge Sport... whether on the front or the rear... without completely disassembling the brakes and the hub parts, as instructed in the Alldata DIY information? I have a stud slightly cross-threaded on both the front and the rear, and rather than trying to rethread them, I would rather just insert brand new ones in their places... but without all the MAJOR disassembly steps that seem to be required in my Alldata research! I once successfully did this replacement on a '67 Camaro (with drum brakes) years ago, as there was just enough room to push a new stud back in from the rear... so I was hoping that the same potential for an "easier" way to replace one on my Edge was also possible. Has anybody had to do this on their 2015-forward Edge, and if so, could you do it without doing all the ridiculous (and major) disassembly? Thanks!

I actually found a place within 45 minutes of my home, that does custom redrilling of ALLOY wheels, to the extreme! However, when I told him my wheels were actually steel wheels, he refused to take on the job, saying that he couldn't duplicate the "chamfered" (beveled) edges around where the new holes would be, and it would somehow weaken the whole rim. I found this odd, since I was examples of his work online, and some of his alloy-wheel work had holes all over the place, including the 60-degree beveled edges... far extensive work than I was asking him to consider doing. I just think he didn't want to deal with a steel wheel, that's all...

I have a set of wheels that I want to use on my 2015 Sport, that use a 5x4-1/2" (5 x 114.3mm) hole pattern... but for some unknown reason, Ford decided to change the previous model years' hole pattern going into the 2015 model year, to instead use a 5x4-1/4" (5 x 108mm) pattern! While I could use an adapter, doing so would move the wheel assembly out an extra (and unnecessary) inch, which I would like to avoid if at all possible. I therefore started wondering if if might be easier to just replace my hubs with a set of hubs from the 2014 model year... IF that is at all possible? IF there are no other changes in the front and rear hubs (other than the change in wheel hole pattern), it would convert my hubs to 5 x 4-1/2" wheels, without any further modifications. Has anybody ever tried that yet, or know if the hubs are otherwise interchangeable? If not, another alternative would be to have the existing hubs redrilled with a second set of holes, using the older pattern, and putting in new studs of course. I just don't know who might do that kind of work. Does anybody have any experience in this kind of modification?

It's a 2015 Edge Sport. Here are my notes on the programming changes I made, for this one feature-change: BdyCM Module: “POWER-POINT TIMEOUT LIMITS” Feature: Changes time limit on how long the Power Point sockets remain “hot” “As Built” (Original programming string): 726-39-01 1194 0101 000E (Default time: 1 Hour, 15 Mins) Programming string CHANGED as follows: 726-39-01 0001 0101 006A (Changed to turn off immediately, with ignition turn-off) (NOTE that the last two digits in each of the changed strings in these examples above were automatically changed by the system during the “Write” process… not by me. Such as, the “72” changed by itself to “70”; the “70” changed to “72”, etc… as well as that the “000E” in the Power-Point string changed by itself to “006A”. These seemed to be some sort of automatic requirement inputted by the system or software, after I made the initial change. All I know is that, in the end, all of the changes worked, and my power points now shut-off immediately.

For my dashcam, I ran my wiring down inside the A-pillar, and then over to the center console, where I tapped into the 12-volt power outlet that is visible on the passenger side of the console. Under the original "as built" software settings, that power outlet would stay "hot" for up to an hour after exiting the vehicle (thereby leaving my dashcam continuing to record needlessly), but I then used ForScan to change the settings on my power outlets to turn-off immediately, as you turn off the ignition, and it's worked great ever since!

No problem! To add the "Average Speed" display function into your Fuel/Trip menu, here are the default settings that I found, and then what I did to add this function into the menu choices: IPC Module: As Built: 720-01-01 0C26 1064 7645 (Default / NO "Average Speed" display visible in the menu) Changed to: 720-01-01 0C26 1464 7649 (Now allows this function to be visible in the menu) NOTE that I only actually changed the "0" to a "4" (in the second field)... but then discovered that the system had automatically changed the "5" to a "9" in the last field, just after I had saved the changes (via the "Write" button)! I've had this happen on a couple of other programming changes I've made as well. Anyway, good luck with your own changes!

As "Ben" did above, I, too, have also been able to disable that annoying/startling double honk, using the 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth unit and the FORScan extended-license software (as he suggested). I was also able to make it impossible to shift the car into Drive while left running and unattended (unless the key fob is back in the car), which seems like a basic, "should-have-been-the-default" choice. (As a fire dept. volunteer, this is ideal for me when I need to leave my car and lights operating out on a roadway, at a fire scene). A feature like this could also be something that might help thwart carjackings, I guess. Another feature I was able to change were the Power Point settings, to now turn-off with the ignition (my dashcam is permanently wired-in to a PowerPoint circuit, and would continue running for 1-1/4 hours after the car was parked... it now turns off when the ignition is turned off, thus saving unnecessary drain on the battery). I was also easily able to add the "Average Speed" display to now show-up as you toggle through the Fuel menu (something that was never originally activated "as built", for some reason). I also experimented with enabling the "Dark Mode" (which is used on police vehicles to disable internal courtesy lights, and external parking and tailight flashing during entry/exit). While I was able to get this mode to work, I decided against using it, as I like having a few seconds of interior lights when first getting in, in the dark. I guess the bottom line is that, while you must be careful in what you mess with, there do seem to be many hidden options and features that, for whatever reason, are not readily changeable without some minor equipment (and the brains to go along with it).

I'm in Livermore... and, I haven't had to take my car into Livermore Ford for any warranty work (so far); I do my own oil changes.