JoeVic

2015 Ford Edge SEL These part numbers are listed on Eauto Repair: FT4Z-3F791-HC With Active Steering FT4Z-3F791-MB Without Active Steering

Is this what you are referring to:

First thing to check is to make sure you don't have the "Auto" setting on. That will usually run very high fan speeds until the desired, dialed in, temperature is reached.

Interesting. I find it very low in my 19 ST. I would like to update it from 3 flashes to 5 flashes for the lane change though.

I use: These are Mitchell DIY: https://eautorepair.net/VehicleSelector/Index?keyword=mitchell diy&matchtype=b&adposition=&device=c&creative=308697413972&utm_term=mitchell diy&utm_campaign=ProDemand&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=1492344622&hsa_cam=503859886&hsa_grp=2835581222&hsa_ad=308697413972&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=aud-475247788555:kwd-354207416367&hsa_kw=mitchell diy&hsa_mt=b&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy6aMs8SdhwMVhXJHAR1AHAXrEAAYASAAEgJxDfD_BwE They were the same as Ford OEM Manuals, but changed in the last year. I liked the older style better. I'll see what I do when my subscription is up.

GTEyes did you check the hood with a straight edge? My 2015 SEL bought new had an issue with a gap on the driver's side also. I never noticed at first. It was more noticeable looking straight in at the hood. Long story short, the hood was actually deformed. Probably a bad stamping. After jumping through some hoops, Ford approved a new hood. What I didn't like was the new hood was painted by the dealer, as compared to the baked on or whatever they do at the factory. It seems to have held up, but the whole issue didn't help with Ford Quality.

I don't believe that can be done with ForScan. I had TSB 20-2190 applied at my dealer. I don't think you can get the programming outside the dealer.

Wow. That stinks. They were about a third lower than my selling dealer.

Check Flood Ford also. I got a very good price from them.

I have a 19 ST. Over the last 4 years I have noticed a slight drop in the coolant level also. I had it pressure checked, with no issues. But I wondered where the coolant went. The newer yellow coolant definitely has a bright yellow fluorescent look to it. Compared to coolant in the tank which has lost some of its luster. I assume this is just the normal breakdown. I only have 26,000 miles on it, but will be doing a drain and refill this summer.

While I am not a fan of the auto stop/start and usually deactivate it, his issue with it not working is most likely because of a weak battery or other electrical issue.

Did you lease or buy the Edge? If bought, did you buy it outright or finance from the dealer? I have heard of some dealers installing GPS systems in case of default on the payments. Are you positive it is Low Jack system? Usually they are installed at the request of the customer and it is usually hidden so it can’t be found. That system is used by law enforcement to track stolen vehicles.

You are one of the few people commenting on this that is absolutely correct. I am seeing many people on different Face Book Edge Groups recommending the BMS reset. This is totally incorrect. One thing that people should look at is the Battery State of Charge. I have found that under 70% SOG my Auto Stop/Start will not engage. The battery and vehicle is otherwise satisfactory.

If you are talking about the tray that drops into the center console (not hinged) it looks like the part number is EM2Z-5804567-BA . I am seeing it priced at $79.61 from Ford Parts and $83.22 at Lakeland Ford.

Gotta agree with edjunior. Nice add ons, but removing the EDGE makes it look like the vehicle was damaged and it was not replaced. But it is your vehicle to do as you please.

That is how I did it. 2 fasteners and then two clips. Easy as could be. i bought the dual horn assembly already on the bracket for about $50. Plug and play. Part # FA1Z-13832-A There are some YouTube videos that show the entire easy process.

What do you recommended to avoid valve carbon build up?

I have a 19 ST. I am more concerned with the carbon build up on the valves due to the Direct Injection than the wet belt drive oil pump. Nick Halstead is correct the 2.7 in the Edge is not the 2nd Gen with dual injection.

I ended up getting McGard solid lugnuts. They had better reviews for rust resistance. Only thing is they are 22mm, so I had to put a 22mm socket in with a breaker bar. The OEM jack handle won't work now. They have been on almost a year with no issues.

Damn. Thats some pretty bad rust. What area of the country was that driven in?

I had the same sort of issue but with a 2004 Crown Vic. It had the same parking brake in a hat assembly with little brake shoes as your Edge. It would lock up in reverse only. Turns out one of the linings separated from the metal shoe from rust and luckily it only caught when in reverse. Working in that confined area between the hub and backing plate was not fun. Glad I had worked on ancient drum brakes decades ago, so i knew how they worked. You are probably going to have to open everything up.

I am not a rocket scientist or automotive engineer, but even I figured he meant passenger seat. ?

Wow, that is some rust. I have been meaning to order one of the "Hockey Pucks" online to use on the pinch weld. I always questioned that philosophy to use the weld. It didn't appear to spread the lifting forces out very far. I am used to a good flat frame position. Always wondered if the pinch weld could bend and there it is.

i seriously doubt the floor dimensions changed from MY 22 to 23. I would think you can safely buy your floor liners.

Haz using this method I assume does not reset the battery "days in service". I have used Forscan Lite to reset the Battery Minder when a new battery was installed and it reset the days in-service to zero. A paragraph in a 2019 service manual says that it is important to reset, when a new battery is installed, so all of the charging algorithms know it is a new battery and not one that has been in-service. Are these two different types of resets ?