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We had a similar situation with a General Motors product a few years ago. Bought it new and It WOULD NOT tow (kept overheating) what the owners manual said! We kept it 11 miserable MONTHS, traded for a differant manufactures crossover, preformed perfectly. I highly recommend both of you do some Due Diligence (not the owners manual or manufactures brochures). Then trade for a Honda CRV or a Jeep, DD for BOTH of these!!!. We use a tow dolly behind our class A. After much DD I traded our F250 for a Mini Cooper :happy feet: . ab

I just clicked your link, 6:40AM Central. "Exhaust Quasi-Dual exhaust with polished round beveled-edge rolled tips and two catalytic converters " Somebody has been reading this forum at Ford. ab

The 3.7 is a V6 and the Ecoboost is a I4. The exhaust needs to be in 1 pipe to go into the turbo. But that still doesn’t answer the question of why Dingo (2011) has a true dual and you (2012) don’t. Anybody know if there is a HP/torque difference between the 10’s and 11’s? A single exhaust would be a little lighter??? ab

To have a true dual exhaust, you’ll probably have to go to a CUSTOM exhaust shop. They’ll have to split the exhaust at the Y pipe. A regular muffler shop might not want to build you one. It could get pretty expensive. You’ll need a second catalytic converter etc. A cat back system if not available now will be in the near future. I checked Borla and Magnaflow, neither show one for 2011 or 12. I did a search for “cat-back” and got 39 hits. ab

Glad you finally passed. Now back to the original problem. Im firm believer that electronics DO NOT heal themselves! Seen it happen TOO many times. Im thinking youll soon have a CES light. Question for FordGuru. Will a loose/defective gas cap cause a "Fuel, Heated O2, O2, Cat, EGR, Evap" "Not Ready?" ab

Try here http://www.wheelsamerica.com/Buy-OEM-Wheels.php ab

Not sure the text message problem is a sync problem. My provider provides voice mail and text messages that are a couple of hours/days old at least a couple of times a month. And I’m a very light user of both. ab

It’s a well kept secret that the price for an extended warranties is VERY negotiable! I googled “ford extended warranty” And randomly picked this site. http://www.zeiglerfordesp.com/ I would try this or another ford dealer on the internet BEFORE visiting your dealer! Then don’t get upset just hand them your quote from the internet dealer and ask if they can meet or beat it. If they can’t then walk, you’ve already got a GOOD offer that will be honored by any Ford dealer, even yours. ab

Yes But we bought it before the regular warranty ran out, got a quote from a dealer in Florida for a few hundred $’s. Took it to our dealer and asked him to meet or beat, he did. You would need to do some careful research to determine if an extended warranty (FORD) would be cost effective. ab

Here’s a picture of the transmission drain. The cases split vertically. The filter most be in the plastic tank on the side. Looks easy in the picture, go pop the hood and take a look :nonono: . I ordered a filter then researched changing it. As mentioned by akirby “If the filter is clogged then the tranny is already toast.” I took it back and got 5 qts of fluid. Removed the 11mm bolt and dropped almost 5 qts. I’m going to call that good, the fluid was clear and smelled good. Because we’re pulling a motorcycle trailer 500 lbs with a 600 lb motorcycle 675 miles. Then empty 675 miles back. I’m going to start changing 5 qts every other oil change. No tow package. ab

Transaxle... (Transmission) 1 11mm bolt drains about 5 quarts, 1/2 what it holds. If you want to change most of it. Go for a drive then do it again, then again to really get most of the fluid changed. We took ours in for a sever down shift at 60 mph for a pass on a 2 lane road. And a few other very random hard shifts. No codes, they can’t duplicate and I can’t either. But it will happen again. We solved the problem by buying an extended warranty . ab

Modelt I took the liberty of editing your post to read. “Has any one attempted to change serpentine belt, I have 08 edge and would like to see pictures to procedures taken to accomplish this .Also would like to know what a dealer would charge for this.” I just read the “scheduled maintenance guide” for our 08 MKX. I couldn’t find anything about the “drive belt” (serpentine belt) until 90,000 miles. It says to “Inspect drive belts.” Then inspect again at 120,000. At 150,000 miles it says “Replace drive belt(s) if not replaced in the last 100,000 miles” I looked under the hood…ouch! Looks like you change it from underneath. Hope this helps ab

Greetings and welcome akirby is our ONLY moderator and is a little stressed, we’re being attacked by spammers (Age archetype….)! I did a search on the “Ford Truck Enthusiasts” forum. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/search.php?searchid=6112998 Doesn’t seem to be much info. The 3.5 uses a timing chain which lasts MUCH longer than a timing belt. Are you having problems or just trying to do some preventative maintenance? I'm sure a dealer would charge SEVERAL $,$$$.00. ab

Are the cams gear/chain/belt driven? ab

Then change the fluid, it's easy. ab

I diddnnt understand you. Have they fixed that glaring little problem, such a simple word DIDN’T. Seriously I was hoping the OEM’s were catching up with the handhelds, maybe next decade??? Garmin has a 7” BUT I use a Toshiba NB305 with “Street and Trips.” It doesn’t talk to me (unless I want it to) AND I DO NOT talk to it. My wife makes changes when/wherever she wants, etc. ab

I guess that answers a FEW question. And brings up a couple of new ones. Will this upgrade be free (free NEW maps)? Can I still get navigation for my motorcycleand both carsWITH life time map upgrades for the LESS than the price of factory navigation? ab

Sorry about your problem, looks like a “Toad Charger” would be the answer. We did a LOT of research when we switched from a 5th wheel to our MH. Which is why we tow a Mini Cooper S automatic on a tow dolly. So far we haven’t ruined the transmission or run the battery down. Some of our research indicated that either could happen to our MKX. The price wasn’t an issue, +/- $1500, 4 down, dolly or trailer. Takes me a little less than: 30 minutes (1st time took 2 hours, I had help ) to get everything attached. Just go ahead and get a “Toad Charger”, if anything happens (it wont) just take the charger off. I just checked on rv.net for “2011 ford edge” and found several dead batteries, but no dead transmissions. My wife is a legal secretary . I DON’T EVER LET HER TOUCH the owners manual or warranty book . ab

I upgraded to 1.2 years ago??? I haven’t checked in a while but I thought we (older) can’t upgrade past 1.3??? When I log in and go to the update page I get this??? Sync Version 1.3 Update available Dealer-Installed Updates For your 2008 Lincoln MKX This SYNC update requires a visit to your authorized local dealership. Please print the Request for SYNC Update form and then make a service appointment. Be sure to bring the printed form with you to your dealership. A dealer service fee may apply. ab

Gas expands quite a bit from the 50+* when you fill. To 100+* or so sitting in you parking spot. There is a large expansion area in the tank. You filled this area when you turned the nozzle upside down. You can accomplish the same by SLOWLY adding gas after the nozzle kicks off. I do this when we’re traveling. THIS IS not recommended if you’re not going to burn those few gals right now. ab

Greetings Welcome and Happy New Year You probably have version 1.2 and can only go to 1.3. You have to pay for it. And take your Edge/MKX to a dealer. You get 911 and Vehicle Health Report. Check your version by registering (you'll need your VIN) @ Syncmyride you also get the form to take to the dealer. http://www.syncmyride.com and another forum http://fordsyncforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=global&section=login We're still running 1.2 ab

Sold our hub caps on Craigslist for $500.00. Added a few hundred??? Can’t remember exactly how much, BUT a whole lot less than Ford wanted for ONE hub cap. ab

Where do those pesky swirl marks come from? I haven't had any in a few years, hhmm. ab

I challenge anyone with any buffer to do as good as I do by hand with “clay bar.” I’ve been using Mothers http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html?productid=motcalgolcla&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE and Meguiar’s http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-detail-clay.html Here’s a YouTube, well worth the watch. Or just go to YouTube and type in clay bar. This is SO much easer than hand or machine buffing! I just did my “new to me“ 05 Mini Cooper. Wash, clay bar, wax and I guaranty it’s smoother now than it was for the first owner :happy feet: . ab PS: I donated my orbital buffer!

Did you say the battery HAS been replaced? This does not mean “i.e. additional power source was added via jump start cables” you took the old battery out of the car? Do you have a volt meter? You should have more than 12.0 volts! 12.4 would be about right. ab