IWRBB

A boosted engine sees higher peak cylinder pressures than a N/A engine, by far. That's bad on pistons, rings, blocks, and bearings- whether it's "designed for it" or not. A non-turbo diesel engine will always be way more reliable than a turbo diesel. Same goes for gas engines. However, since very few Ford engine problems are short block related these days, I'll give you that.

I've not heard a lot of bad things about the 2.0 engine. The 3.5L is a known quantity. It'll run a quarter million miles as long as a leaking water pump doesn't take out the bottom end. If I had to bet which would need less repairs- I'd pick the 3.5L. It's less stressed and has less parts/systems to go wrong. If you plan to keep it for 5 years and sell it, it doesn't matter. If you plan to keep it long term and drive the wheels off it, I'd get the 3.5L personally.

I'm guessing it's similar to the walnut shell blasting. You pull the intake manifold and go through the head port to clean the back of each valve. You clean the intake valves on the cylinders that are fully closed (vacuuming out the debris as you go) then rotate the engine and do the rest.

Hookin you up Rick... 6 new OEM Ford Coils, plugs and an intake manifold gasket kit for $145. You cannot beat this price anywhere. https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-kit-ba5z12259a Vids on how to do it.

I don't quite get what you are asking. All the pictures I've seen of rear bearings for a Gen 1 FWD Edge show no external tone ring- it looks like the ABS sensor plugs into the plastic on the back of the hub, so the tone ring must be internal. If it's an AWD Edge, then a shaft has to go through the bearing- so there's no room for the FWD style design. Therefore they press a tone ring on the halfshaft and mount a sensor to the spindle to read that. FWD Rear Hub: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2924862&cc=1434490&jsn=465 AWD Rear Hub: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2925744&cc=1434490&jsn=464 AWD Rear Halfshaft: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9125224&cc=1434490&jsn=537 I'll be replacing the rear hub/bearings on our 2010 Edge soon. Been making a growling noise for a while now that sounds like it's coming from the rear, and the MPGs are way down. Just short of 60K miles.

Shit man, you shoulda just scuffed, painted and cleared it if you had it off the car. Plastidip always starts looks like ass after a while.

I'm talking about a standard big wheel you rode around on. The one big wheel up front and two in back with the hand brake on one rear wheel. Flip that thing over and crank the pedals by hand. It was called making ice cream. No idea why, but everyone knew what it was when I was growing up.

Take a big wheel, flip it over...

2010-2012 Fusions have A/C condensate drains. They are on the firewall. There's no way a car could have a functioning A/C system without one.

Was at my parents house last week, they still have a nice Technics turntable, a JVC tape deck, and a Sony reel-to-reel machine as well. His A/V receiver has a phono input as well. Noting that plays wax though!

I ripped all of my CDs using my PC at least a decade ago. I encoded it all at 320 bitrate which generated files that were- at the time, huge. However, encoding at a 320 bitrate creates a nearly perfect sounding duplicate of the CD. All of my music (approx 2000 tracks) totals up close to 20 GB of data. At the time, that was a lot of space- but I knew how things went with storage. As expected, 10 years later, you can pick up compact 32GB flash drives all day long for $15. I did download a few things I couldn't find CDs for- for those tracks/albums I used an ID tag editor so they were tagged just like the items I ripped myself. Lastly, I used another program that would look at the levels of each album and track. It evened out the volume across all albums/tracks, while maintaining relative levels to each each other. Meaning, it would make all the albums pretty much the same as far as volume goes, but the quiet tracks remained quieter than the loud track within each album. It also looked for any track/album with clipping and corrected that. I forget the name of this piece of software but I could find it if someone is interested. This step is so important, and few ever do it, or even know they can do it. I can do a 'shuffle all' on my USB drive in the car and all the tracks are at the same volume level, no matter what it is. It was a lot of work up front to get hem all correctly ripped, encoded, tagged and volume leveled. However, you only have to do it once assuming you are old enough to not be buying a ton of new music. I just copy and paste form one flash drive to another whenever I need a source of music to use in a new device/car/computer.

I pulled the wires from the switch and twisted them together. Don't need the button anymore.

It's packaging to jam a large V6 into small FWD engine bays. It won't fit otherwise. The RWD versions of the 3.5L in F150s have a standard external water pump setup I believe.

I only bag when the leaves are falling.

I swear, you are describing the mower my neighbor had until last year. Same fuel line cut off, same busted hood, same worn out drive belts and tires. He just last year broke down and got a new JD from Lowes/HD. His bagger setup is not as good as mine. Just seems flimsy. Forgot to add, I made sure I bought a mower that had with anti-scalp wheels at all four corners.

I paid about $2800 from a dealer for a JD LT180 with the bagger setup and the 48" deck back in 2003. I've replaced a couple belts on it, and the seat is cracking in the corner, otherwise it's never had any issues. I see no reason I can't get another 15 years out of it given the shape it's in. If it goes 30 years, that's less than $100 a year to own it. If you are the one using it, get a good one. If it's your kid, they'll beat it up no matter what you buy. Buy once, cry once.

Had that happen on my old F150. They were good pads too, Raybestos Pro Grade stuff. Sometimes it just happens I guess.

If the seat has airbags, disconnect the battery before you take it out.

I'd bet it's the element. You gotta pull the seat out and start disassembling it enough to where you can pull the skin off. It'll have hog rings so you'll have to remove those and re-install new ones when it goes back on. It's just a bunch of labor.

Michelin.

Is it not SD card based like Sync 2 was?

Actually, the 2011-2014 wheels will not fit 2006-2010s. The lug pattern is the same, but the hub bore is smaller on the 11-14s. You could go the other way and run 2006-2010 wheels on 2011-2014 (hopefully with hub rings to center them).

It's not unnecessary for remote start. It's tied into the remote start to prevent the engine form being started remotely while someone is working under the hood. "That belt looks a bit cracke- vroom Shit, my finger!"

The hubs rings will be listed by both sizes, since both are applicable. It will have a 63.4mm inner diameter and a 72.6mm outer diameter. It's an 18" wheel, so I highly doubt your brakes will rub. You can always test fit it before you put tires on them to make sure. Here are some plastic ones for example. http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Centric-72-6mm-63-4mm-Yellow/dp/B01E3Q8S46/

Yea, the offset seems fine since the wheel is 1/2" wider. You need to see if you can find hubrings to take up the gap between the car's 63.4mm hub and the wheel's 72.6mm center bore. They are a PITA to use, but it'll get the wheel centered perfectly. I'd get metal ones if possible (as opposed to plastic) and throw a light coat of anti-seize on them.