IWRBB

Does anyone have issues with the sunroof shade making noise over bumps? Our does it a lot. It sound like the fabric is smacking the center cross piece between the two pieces of glass. It's not very taut and being one long piece, it's plenty flappy enough to move up and down and hit the cross piece. Open it up and there is no noise. The shade on our 2010 was made of more substantial material and didn't move around at all. It was also split into two parts which totally prevented it from hitting the middle cross beam as well. It also blocked the heat better. Seems like the 2019 shade is vastly inferior to the 2010 IMO. It's neat in that it's all one piece as it rolls back, and there is no fat headliner material over the crossbar so it seems more open- but man, everything else about it seems so cheap and flimsy.

I don't even see how that's possible on ours- there is no way to lift the arms/wipers up when they are in the down/off position. You can lift them very slightly, but any more than like an inch and the arms hit the back edge of the hood. Maybe that's a change in the hood on the 2019 vs earlier models? They only way to do it is to turn off the ignition with them at the top of the swipe, in a vertical orientation on the glass. It's a really crappy design IMO. I've had cars that have to go down in a particular order like you said, but never that you couldn't lift them when they are in the off position.

Yes. My wife has been complaining of this. We have the latest software on there from the original TSB.

So I changed out the wiper blades on my wife's 2019 ST yesterday. It sat on the lot for months and the blades were not in great shape. I turned on the ignition and wipers, then turned it off with them "up" since you cannot raise the wiper arms with them down without the arms hitting the hood. Nice design BTW Ford. I then replaced the wiper blades without issue. Both came right off and the new ones snapped right in. I didn't rotate the arms or put any undue stress on them. So I then go back in and hit the ignition button and turn off the wipers. They go down, then the driver's side does some weird, jerky two-step park maneuver. It actually lifts the center portion of the blade completely off the glass for a half second then goes back down. It's really weird and never did that before. Not only that, they do it every time you turn on the ignition now, even with the wipers off. Has anyone ran into this before? I assume it's an issue with the wiper motor itself and will need to go to the dealer for replacement- but I figured I'd ask here before we go through all of that. I have Forscan, so if there's some type of re-calibration in one of the modules, I'd rather try that first than have the dealer tear into it. It just seems weird it happened right after the blades were changed. I did swap the blades from side to side a month or so ago without any issues though. It's one of the few vehicles I've ever seen with the same sized wiper blades on both sides. That's nice and all, but the whole "center out" swipe thing- meh. Do not like.

We produce the most oil and gas now too. The one thing I really look back on as a disappointment in my public schooling is the lack of acknowledgment of American exceptionalism. USA is by far the most powerful country both financially and militarily in the history of the world- all in just over 200 years. In addition, no country has ever amassed this level of power and used it in such a positive manner. Not to say we've been perfect, but we've never tired to take over the world either. Looking at you Germany. Japan. England. Spain. Romans. Huns. In fact quite the opposite. Two of those were defeated in part or primarily by the USA. My teachers never acknowledged that we are the ONLY country in the world where people have inalienable rights enshrined in the constitution. They were more interested in pointing out that Sweden takes care of their citizens from cradle to grave. 30 years later- that's not working out so well for them. Sorry for the political rant- the patriotic talk gets me going!

Grille needs a blue oval. To much of a whale shark look going on without something to break up that huge maw.

Nice style and color choice on the wheels. Not a fan of gloss black, IMO the wheels should be lighter in color than the tire.

That plate holder is hideous. I carefully drilled out the rivets and pulled it from ours before it could damage the paint. I plugged the three holes with some small plastic plugs from Lowes after I painted them.

Sticky tires are the best solution to wheel hop in general. If they don't spin, there is no hop.

Ford can wipe the old keys and add the ones you have back as "approved" keys/fobs. You can do also it yourself with a program called Forscan. Those are your only options.

Who cares about the next owner? Those things are ugly.

Freedom units please.

I'd change it, do your long trip, then change it again. Should be good for a while after that.

"The 7.3-liter V8 features an overhead valve architecture that generates power low in the rev range to help get heavier loads moving sooner and with greater confidence" Marketing wank! Overhead valves? Wow. All the flathead owners will be so jealous.

Meh, it's not bad IMO, just different. The 2015+ Edges almost look like they are trying a bit to hard with the super slanted rear window. That severely angled window leaves less room in the rear before cargo hits the glass compared to the first gen Edges that had the more upright glass like the Chinese one.

The wheelbase isn't any longer. The change is the rear hatch/window and c-pillar is way more upright, and it has more rear overhang from the rear tire back.

I've removed lug nuts that were WAY over 162 ft-lbs on smaller diameter 1/2" studs and they didn't break or stretch. By the way, I'm talking about YOU Tire Discounters. We bought a used Fusion that the dealer had new tires put on at TD before we bought it. Tire Discounters just ran em down with an impact it seemed like. They were crazy tight, and made all kinds of tinking noises as they loosened up. Lugs were still fine though. Every 15+ F150 has had the same lug size and threads as the 15+ Edges, and the the F150s are specified at 150 Ft-Lbs. Nobody seems to think that's too high. The Edge has one less lug, so I can understand why Ford upped it slightly over the F150. I don't see another 12 ft-lbs causing the lugs to strip/stretch/break, especially if Ford is telling you it's the required torque value. I'm kind of shocked a tire shop would send out a vehicle with it's lug nuts torqued to less than factory specifications. Seems like a lot of liability on their end for no reason.

For anyone who may purchase RTV to do this fix, I'd highly recommend buying The Right Stuff. It's a Permatex product, it's black, and is pretty much the best RTV available. https://www.permatex.com/our-brands/the-right-stuff/ https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/the-right-stuff-gasket-makers/

Nope. It doesn't work that way. The people who are not flooring it from every stop also spend the majority of their time cruising. You are not outweighing anything. Every hard acceleration drives your average MPG down, it's that simple. Accelerating lightly and avoiding using the brakes are critical for getting good MPG. Your poor mileage is 100% due to your driving style. I've averaged 26 MPG (hand calculated) for the last month in a Taurus SHO. I could easily average 15 MPG if I launched it from every stop and was always in the fast lane passing everything in sight. With my Mustang, I've seen 23 MPG (all highway) and I've seen 11 MPG (all fun). "You gotta pay to play", and "Your mileage may vary" are not just sayings. Our ST has been averaging over 20 MPG with about 1/3 highway and 2/3 city with my wife driving it. She drives it like a normal person drives a normal vehicle. I would probably be able to eek out another MPG or two compared to her after my years of practice at maximizing MPG while driving thirsty full size V8 trucks. She stays on the gas way too long approaching red lights etc, but whatever- she doesn't wreck cars or curb the wheels and parks far enough out to avoid door dings, so I don't complain about a MPG or two.

I'm saying it's not there to keep water out of the inside of the car. It's there for further noise/wind reduction at speed. Ford didn't put it there to keep dirt out of your door jambs- they put it there because their competitors did and their NVH benchmarks where not up to par without it. No, you won't hear "wind noise" with it not in place, but remove them all and it'll be slightly louder at highway speeds than one that has them in place.

It's not a game- it's just math. It costs more to get the lower deductible. You have to visit the dealer for warranty service a certain number of times to re-coup that extra money paid up front. The number depends on the ESP plan type and deductible you chose. It's still 100% predictable and planned- you pay the deductible and Ford pays the rest.

It's just for wind noise. The older Edges did not have that extra seal.

Depends on what caused them (ie what was in the water). I've seen spots that will never come out without resorting to wetsanding the clearcoat.

Grip it and rip it. Might need to pull the metal clips off the body and put them back on the trim piece before you reinstall, they tend to bite into the metal and not stay on the plastic as it's removed, no matter how careful you are.

If you do the math, you are better off with a deductible until you get to like 4 visits or so. Given most people do the 100K warranty, and the power train is good until 60K miles, I don't see more than 3 or 4 visits being needed in the last 40K miles for most people. Maybe one or two, and in that case you'c come out ahead with the lower upfront ESP price and higher deductible.