IWRBB

Apparently, no. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/4815-courtesy-wipe/ My 2013 F150 has the option to turn it on or off, so Ford at least has addressed it in the newer models.

Good choice. The turbo cannot fail if it's not there. I'm not big on turbo engines- lots of heat, rough on the oil and eventually, all turbos fail. I've seen lots of naturally aspirated Ford engines go 300 to 400 thousand miles with nothing but routine maintenance. Simpler is better when it comes to durability.

Weird. We live in Ohio and our 2010 Edge has seen plenty of salt, but the hood looks perfect in that area. It may help that I always open all the doors, rear hatch and hood to wipe everything clean after a wash. I just sold my old 2000 F150 which had all kind of rust issues. I slowed the rust way down on that vehicle using anti-rust products a few years back. I plan to be way more aggressive early on with the anti-rust treatments on the replacement truck (2013 Raptor!) and on the Edge. Fluid Film, Amsoil HD metal protector, and Leer ACF-50 are all good for preventing rust. If it's already started, you need to hit it with rust converter first (I use a spray from Mar-Hyde), followed up with a good paint to seal the converted rust, then soak the surrounding area with one of the rust preventors. When it comes down to it, the hood is probably the best panel to have rusted if you are going to have anything rust. The paint gets torn up from rock chips, and it's very easy to replace. There are no electrical wires or mechanisms or any kind to deal with. Just paint the new panel, pop the hood liner and washer fluid nozzles in and bolt it on.

As mentioned above, you really should learn to use the parking brake to take the strain off the parking pawl. I've been parking cars on steep driveways for half of my life so I just do it without even thinking about it now. 1) Stop where you want to park. 2) Hold your foot on the brake pedal. 3) Push the parking brake pedal down as far as you reasonably can. 4) Put it in park. 5) Let go of the regular foot brake. When you leave: 1) Foot on brake to start it. 2) Put it in D or R. 3) Release the parking brake. 4) release foot brake and drive away. The goal is to have the parking brake hold majority of the vehicle's weight, not the parking pawl.

I've clay barred and waxed glass on many vehicles. Haven't done the BAMR on the Edge yet, but one day I likely will.

I've taken out a few Ford interiors over the years. The console will be the hardest part generally, especially with the vents being part of it. Typically I'll pull the seats first, then the sill plates, then the front outer panels in the foot well, then deal with the B pillar and rear seat plastics. Most times you can get th carpet out without completely removing the middle and rear plastics if youa re able to get them loose at the bottom. Take your time. Assume most things pull straight off since interior trim pieces normally do.

Sounds like the booster. It's a common failure on these vehicles. Search for brake booster and you'll find a ton of info on it.

Those NGK IX irriduims are great plugs. I put them in everything.

How much did the powdercoat cost you FedEdge? PVD costs Picturepro?

That's funny right there.

I'm too old for that stuff. I don't have Twitter, Facebook or Instagram It's interesting to read my first post again though. H&R springs are out- wife doesn't want it any lower. I think I'll stick with the stock chrome 20's for now. They have grown on me a bit. Still very glad I did the grill in gloss black. It looks much better than the chrome grille did and the paint has held up 100%.

You don't hook the cap itself, you hook the plastic tether line on there. I use it every time I fill up.

I've done it on my F150. All the door trim had to come off. The channel bolted to the door at the front and rear. The trick was to put the window down and it could move/slide forward and backwards in it's track giving you access to R&R the channel. It was much easier than I figured it would be.

You are starting to repeat yourself. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19645-2010-edge-sport-front-grille/

I have a 2010 Sport- no nav from the factory. We do have sync though. I looked into upgrading when we bought it, but the details are a bit fuzzy now. Would the OEM nav headunit be plug and play? I seem to recall the nav headunits have no amp in them like the standard radios do and I'd have to do my own amp setup to make it work.

Well after reading all that- it's probably just the pad compound. Didn't realize you drove it prior to bleeding and it felt "off" then as well. Try swapping the pads if it really bothers you. I like you use whatever the local (ie non Autozone, Advance, or Oreliieys) parts store recommends. The manager is a friend of mine. They sell tons of brake parts to small shops and mechanics and get plenty of feedback on what is good and what is crap. Mechanics do want to use the cheapest parts they can, but more importantly they don't want it coming back due to an unhappy customer. Things change over time, so what was good 2 years ago may be produced somewhere else and have issues now. I used to use Raybestos Pro grade parts per they recommendation and always had good luck with it. They've been recommending/stocking Centric the last couple of times I've done brake jobs. Both vehicles I put them on have extremely smooth brakes with plenty of initial bite and a good pedal feel. No complaints with either brand.

You didn't let the fluid level run low while bleeding did you? I'd try re-bleeding them. Keep it topped up and be patient. Tap the calipers before and during the bleed. I just did new front rotors and pads last weekend on our 2010. I used Centric premium rotors and Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads. I did some bedding afterwards as well, mostly 45~50 MPH to 5 MPH stops. Probably 6-7 stops then a nice cool down without touching them. The feel is just like before, but smoother. The old rotors had rusted from sitting on a car lot and although they improved with mileage/usage, they were never smooth like new brakes are. Something it could be that nobody has mentioned: Rarely does the pedal go to all the way to the floor with normal everyday driving. So there's a chance that some "crud" builds up on the MC rod at the end of normal everyday travel range. When you bleed the brakes, most of the time the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor and then the bleeder screw is closed. When you push that rod further than normal driving would during the bleeding process, there is a chance that "crud" can damage a seal in the MC. This is more typical on an older car with neglected brake fluid- but I'm just throwing it out as a possibility there if nothing else seems to fix your problem.

I painted my chrome grill black last year. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18447-chrome-grille-painted-gloss-black/ Still looks great. No rock chips or any other issues after 6K miles. Scuff the chrome really well and use quality paint. Use the 2K clear. I was not able to find any primered grilles for the 08-10s when I was looking. It'd would have cost a bit more, but it would have been so much easier to get a primered piece and let a paint shop spray it black/clear it.

I've never seen Gold in a 50/50 pre-mix. I just mix it myself with a gallon of distilled water. It is hard to find in parts stores- I don't think I've ever seen it at the big national chains, Autozone, Oreillys, Advance. I get mine from a local chain. If all else fails- http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-W0133-1922633-MTR-Engine-Coolant-Antifreeze/dp/B00CWFT4F8 Probably cheaper through Amazon anyways.

No cars have used v-belts for decades. Everything from the 80's upwards has serpentine belts with spring tensioners- until just very recently. Now there are the stretchy serpentine belts that have no tensioner. I thought maybe you knew something I didn't when you stated it needs to be re-tensioned. I don't think there is any way to "re-tension" a belt as you stated in your post from Nov 16th above.

How do you re-tension a belt? Do these cars have the new stretchy belts and there's some type of sliding/adjustable idler?

This is the cheapie battery terminal puller I use to pull wiper arms from the posts. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25121 You should be able to pick one up at any auto parts store. It works perfect. The hooks go under the arm and the threaded portion pushes against the post, lifting the arm off the post. If you think about it, the wiper arm on it's post is very similar in shape and size to a traditional lead battery terminal on it's post, so it makes sense the same tool works for both.

After the bolt is removed, I always use a battery terminal puller to pull wiper arms from the shafts. It just barely fits, but has always worked on all my Fords.

The only "2 layer" tires I've ever heard of were from Bridgestone. They were designed exactly opposite of what you are stating. In general, every time you drive your car, you heat cycle the tires, and the rubber gets a little bit harder. So by the time you are half way through a tire, it's quite a bit harder and has less traction than when new. Bridgestone had/has tires that used a second layer of softer rubber that gets exposed as the tires wear, so you still have good traction until you hit the wear bars. My truck had them (All Terrain Revos/Revo 2s) and the wet traction never dropped off like other tires as they aged.

They should bolt right up. 07-10 Edges have a 70.5 mm hub and 5x114.3 lug pattern. It appears the 2000 Explorer has the same hub and lug pattern.