IWRBB

Just do it. It's not a big deal. Center-punch a flat spot, work your way up through the bit sizes, tap it, plug it. You can buy drain plug setups that'll work with a non-tapped hole as well. They use rubber seals. I was lucky enough to get our 2010 Edge in 2014, and by then the PTU was a known POS so I went with FWD. At some point they are going to have to start making them again- there's no way the junkyards can keep up with the failure rate of these things. All the manufacturers have issues- if the PTU is your only real problem, and you know how to fix it- just fix it and move on. Ford is not some big evil company that is out to produce vehicles that fail.

It's a major process. The engine needs to be supported from the top, then the exhaust y-pipe has to come off, then the front subframe has to come out. Then pull the passenger side wheel and wheel liner. After all that you get to strip the entire front of the engine. Then you take the timing cover off. You can then R&R the water pump. Might as well replace the drive chains and chain tensioners while you are in there too. Then clean up the timing cover/engine block and put everything back together. All that labor plus parts and shop supplies gets to $2000 pretty quick. If it were my car, I'd put the used engine in there, change the coolant, and roll. Drop the whole engine/trans and suspension out on the subframe and swap it outside of the car. So much easier.

It's out of warranty. You will have to pay to get it fixed. Just accept that and move on. You are correct that it's an internal pump (inside the timing cover), and it can damage the engine if it leaks. This type of packaging of the waterpump is not uncommon nowadays, unfortunately. The upside is the waterpump typically lasts much longer. The downside is your situation. I've not heard of that many leaking, so it's not common. It does happen though, and there are multiple instances just in this forum. Here's what you need to do. Find an independent mechanic who is willing to swap a used engine into your Edge. Have him locate an engine for you. You should be able to find one with 20K to 60K miles for less than $2000. Should be about $750 to $1000 to swap it out. You should be able to get it running again for less than $3000 in my opinion.

It's freezing up, plain and simple. When you travel at high speeds for long periods of time, the A/C is able to get a lot colder than it does sitting in a traffic jam. If Ford set the A/C system to where it's 100% impossible to freeze up, people would complain it's not cold enough. So under certain "ideal" conditions, it can get cold enough to freeze up the core when there is lots of humidity involved. I've seen it happen on our 08 Taurus (once), and my parent's 05 Cadillac CTS (multiple times). It happens during long drives at high speeds on really humid days. It took the Taurus about 3 hours to fully melt/drain the core after it was parked. The driveway had an area about 10'x10' square completely soaked from the melting ice. You can trick the computer to go colder by adding resistance to that thermistor circuit (F150foum.com has details on how to do it), but I don't think you can go "the other way" so to speak and make it run warmer/shut off the compressor at a higher temp.

I highly doubt it's a part sold by Ford. If a bunch start failing, then maybe 5 years from now Dorman might make a part to replace the LED only. Otherwise, you are likely stuck replacing the whole mirror assembly.

http://maestro.idatalink.com/

There is a torque spec on the plugs. Given all the different angles you are working at to tighten the plugs, I'd recommend using a torque wrench and properly torquing the plugs.

Because you aren't measuring ground clearance. You are measuring how much the body dropped in relation to the ground. I've never seen a vehicle scrape on it's rockers, so it's not a good location to use as a measurement of ground clearance anyways. The exhaust (or tranfer case on a 4WD) is typically the lowest point under the vehicle. Your location would come up with the same drop measurement of course, but it's not easily repeatable from car to car since it's not an easy location for everyone to exactly duplicate. All Edges of the same generation have the same wheelwell openings, not all have the same rocker treatment. It doesn't matter that the front and rear wheel wells are different. They both maintain the same relationship to the ground before and after. The measurement from ground the top of the wheel well is all that matters. If it was 32" in front and 31" in the rear, then went to 30" and 29", it dropped 2". Easy peasey.

Maybe you do it that way, but I've never heard of ANYONE else ever doing it that way. Everyone who has lowered their cars measures from ground to the center of the wheelwell arch. It's an easily repeatable measurement from car to car. Your method, OK where exactly do we measure that again? The side skirt? What is that? I've never seen that term used by anyone before. The plastic? The metal? What if I have a sport vs a non-sport with different "skirts"? Where do I meausure? See what I'm getting at?

So taking it to the next logical step, what if you swapped the lower too?

I check all of my vehicles for proper drainage periodically. I've seen clogged A/C lines and clogged sunroof drains on family vehicles. All the doors/tailgates/hatches should be open/freely draining at the bottom holes. Sunroof drains should be located/cleaned/checked for drainage. A/C should leave wet spots under the car on a humid day after being parked. I replace the cabin air filter a lot on the Edge to keep the A/C box nice and clean.

If the connectors are the same but are pinned differently, you can typically disassemble the connector and re-pin it as needed, no cutting needed.

Buy the primered grille from Ford and get it painted by a body shop. Best way hands down.

I like the larger older mirrors. Much easier to see and use. Speaking of liking 08-10 sruff beyter than the 11-14 stuff- I thought the 11-14 dashboard looked terrible compared to the 08-10 models. Im takling about the top of the dash and the portion that shades the gauges. I was shocked at how cheap the 11-14s looked. We had a 10 and a 12 parked side by side and the 12 dash was just terrible in comparison. Oddly shaped, cheap looking materials ,and its so huge and in your face that it stands out evem more. Anyways back to your mirror discussion. Sorry for the hijack

Hold that K&N filter up to the sunlight. See all those "stars"? Dirt goes right through. Unless you are racing the thing- stick with a stock paper filter. A K&N only lets additional dirt into your engine.

I agree- well, with the exception of something like a roots style supercharged V8 that's been turned up from the factory boost levels. For an Edge, run the stock air box with a paper filter. Zero reason for anything else.

"Blue Water" would be a great name for a store brand of washer fluid. Maybe Walmart even...

You know if Dorman makes such a normally obscure and typically never replaced part- Ford screwed up the design. Most times, Dorman parts like this will fix what Ford screwed up in their original design. I didn't read all 11 pages to see if Ford has modified this part or not, but if not, I'd be tempted to get the Dorman part. I'm sure it's cheaper than the Ford part too.

https://detroitwheelandtire.com/ford/edge.html?limit=all

Cabin air filter is a straight up rip off. You can get the filter for $12 on Amazon and do it yourself in less than 5 minutes with no tools. Air Filter/MAF cleaning for $190 is also a rip off. The filter is maybe $30, plus ten cents worth of MAF cleaner spray. 15 mintues tops in labor. It's really pricey if they are doing the spark plugs too since all that comes off as part of the plug change. Sparkplugs aren't too crazy over the top considering they have to remove the upper intake manifold and replace it, but it's still about $100 too much IMO. Plugs are $40 or less, a new intake gasket might be $10. All the rest is easy labor that they've done before. Battery is probably $120 or so, so $75 additional to change it out is a rip off. No clue on the door ajar thing, but I'm sure they are very high on that as well. Time to find a good independent mechanic or start turning wrenches yourself.

Turbine speed sensor. Output shaft sensor. Common failures.

Lawn and garden equipment does not have complicated carbs with a bunch of small parts. Watch a few Youtube vids and tear into it. It's not difficult. You are typically just cleaning out jets/needles/orifices and replacing rubber seals and jets. I've done Tecumseh and Briggs carbs from my tiller and snowblower. No problems, both run perfect now. The tiller had a rusty gas tank. I used rust evaporator to kill the rust in the tank an re-built the carb. Runs like new with it's 40 year old points ignition.

I agree, if you can easily swap the LCA, do it. The new bushings are worth it.

Try switching keys if you have a backup key.

I forgot why I hated that feature as well until you reminded me of the salt spray issue. That is exactly why you want to be able to control when your wipers are on on not, and not have the vehicle's software deciding for you. If they put a feature like that in, they should always give you a way to turn it off. The engineers live in Michigan and have to drive in the winter and deal with salt spray- how did they miss that one?