IWRBB

Hey everyone- I am looking for a part number for the white pins that secure the lower interior trim panel on the rear lift gate. They are white, and have a double head on them. One head slides into the panel and the other hits up against the metal. I can put a picture up if that'll help.

If you have a lift, I'd definitely take it out the bottom. Leave the subframe, suspension, trans, etc all intact and raise the body off of them.

Hmm, I always thought it was 55 W max for low beams and 65 W max for high beams.

That is odd. I just had our 2010 rear gate interior trim off to install a backup camera, and I took a good look at the lower seam from inside the gate, and it looked perfect. It's on it's 7th winter and has lived it's life in OH, KY, and PA.

Depends on how much was used, and in what locations. If you spray it inside your doors and the lower seam, you'll smell it for a good long while, especially in the summer.

You could just upgrade the lamps in the stock housing. I just changed my H11 low beams to H9s. Technically it's not legal since it's above 55W (65W) but they are not blinding in any way. I also changed the high beams from 9007s to 9011 HIRs. The 9011 HIRs have much better output, but a short life span. Not a big deal since I rarly run with the brights on. Both changes took a slight mod to the lamp base tabs, and the 9011 HIRs needed a rib trimmed out of the electric plug in area. Took about 2-3 min per bulb.

Physically, yes. Legally, no. Google GVWR, CGVWR, and payload. Understand what tongue weight is and that it counts as payload. You are limited by what numbers Ford assigned to the vehicle as it was delivered. Add anything you want, but those numbers will NEVER change. You could end up being sued if you are overloaded according to those numbers, despite any modifications to help improve things.

Do some research on tempered glass. It just happens sometimes. Glass is weird stuff, and tempered glass is highly stressed.

My John Deere lawn tractor has a digital hour meter.

The only engine failures I've personally witnessed in cars owned by family and friends in the last 25 years has come from turbo 4 cylinder engines. Sludged up oil pickups were the culprits. I'd only run full synthetic in a turbo engine to prevent oil sludging. On the 5w20 vs 5w30 thing- Ford powertrain engineers have said the 20 was used for CAFE fuel mileage gains only- and that they run 5w30 in their own vehicles for the most protection. I use 5W30 in all my Fords, and they all call for 5W20. Ford actually went back to a 5W30 recommendation on the 6.2L V8s this year, after years of recommending 5W20. As far as I know- they have been no changes to that engine at all.

I always replace rotors when I do brakes. They are only about $50 each max. I spend a lot of time cleaning and scraping the hub face with WD40 and a razor to make sure there are no high spots. After all that work- I'm not putting used rotors on there since you will never get the unevenly corroded rear face of a used rotor to sit flat on the hub like a new rotor will. That runout will be felt in the pedal. Not to brag, but any brake job I've ever done is always 100% smooth- never any pedal vibes at all. New rotors, clean hubs, new slide hardware, and pads that can easily move in the caliper slides are key to that. Sometimes you have to file off some "slag" from the backing plate ears to get the pads to easily slide in the caliper.

Saw online there is a class action suit against ford for these BAMRs. They are claiming Ford should have used laminated glass instead of a single layer of tempered glass. Tempered glass sometimes just breaks for no reason- our table on our porch shattered a month ago on a nice calm day. A co-worker had the same thing happen as well. I've read about the tempered glass shower enclosures just shattering for no reason as well. There's been a few posts here about the rear glass just shattering as well. The BAMR is one of the coolest features of the Edge. It seems stupid to NOT get it, even though I typically avoid sunroofs if possible. One really nice thing about it is there is practically no paint on the roof to maintain. Roof paint always gets beat by the sun. The only large horizontal panel is the hood and it's fairly small. Keep the hood waxed and overall the paint will look good for a long time. The sides always stay nice looking since they don't get the UV, standing water, ice, etc. like the hood and roof.

We just got them installed last fall on our 2010. Took off the 6 year old Pirellis that were rock hard and had practically no wet traction left. The Premiers are nice tires- quiet and smooth, no complaints. We actually have traction in wet conditions now. We haven't really tired them in snow or ice yet since we haven't had any, but given the siping on them, they should be fine.

I've used an electric blower, and I've used my gas backpack blower. The electric is weaker, but is light and maneuverable. Gas blowers, you have to make sure the exhaust is not run into the airstream- Stihl and Redmax blowers run the exhaust out the back of the blower. The main problem with the backpack blower is you are constrained by the tube and the fact it's on your back, so you can't get a good angle on the roof without standing on a ladder. You really need nice a nice layer of wax on the car for it to work on panels though. If not, it just spreads out into a sheet and dries instead of rolling off as beads of water. In that case, dry it normally, then come back with the blower to get all the crevices, then one last pass with the towel.

You cannot increase the tow rating of any vehicle. It's determined by the manufacturer and cannot ever be changed. If you exceed it, you are opening yourself to liability in an accident.

Going to need more info than that. Year, trim level, etc...

Schrader valve will depressurize the system, not much fuel will come out, just a quick spurt. The injectors will pop right out once the rail is off. The may pull out with the rail. I use Sil Glyde to lube the new orings, you can get it at any parts store. I'd at least replace all the o-rings even if you only replace one injector.

I guess when they are so crappy that they don't even make it out of the 3 year warranty period, and they become warranty claims- then they have to make them better. I'm sure they figure out a way to make them cheaper again. Kinda of sad how bad they've been given that it is "The Blue Oval" and represents the company brand.

None of them are stickers. It's probably the cheap ass paint or plastic they used for the blue lifting off the cheap chromed plastic base. Ford cheapened all of their emblems in the mid 2000's. Anything from about 2005 and up that sits outside will generally have a ruined blue oval in less than 10 years. My 2000 F150 front oval still looked brand new 15 years later. By brother's 2011 F150 oval is peeling. I can walk through the junkyard, and row after row of 1990s Ford products still have perfect Ford ovals on them. Too bad most are too small to re-use on any of the newer cars, given all of their gigantic everythingy-ness. I really think they cheapened them as an underhanded way to make more money selling parts. New blue ovals are NOT cheap. They know a lot of people can't stand to look at it and will buy a $40 replacement. If you can get 10,000 a year sold and make $33 on each one, bam- $330,000 profit per year. A million in profit every three years. Plus Ford was able to use a cheap crappy part to start with instead of something good, so millions more in profit before the replacements are even sold! Instead of playing their game and buying a POS $40 part that will soon fail again, I spent $10 on a vinyl sticker from Ebay. So far, so good- been on there over a year. It's black too, instead of blue. Goes good with the custom black grille I did.

You can take it to Lincoln dealers too. Typically better service anyways.

I don't know this for sure, but I'd assume that the Lincoln has different bushings in the control arms to provide more cush than the Ford. They probably wear out faster, but old people rarely put that many miles on anything. Yes, I'm saying only old people buy Lincolns (ducks). It likely has more noise cancelling materials as well, which helps out.

Electronic rust protection is BS. It would work fine if you had a path to ground. However, given that cars sit on rubber tires- all they do is separate you from your money. If they worked, everyone would have them. For the record, cathodic protection obviously does work- but those add on anti-rust boxes for your car DO NOT. 7 years is still a bit young for most Fords to show rust on the body panels themselves. You might see bubbles at the door seams though. I can guarantee there's all kinds of rust on your subframe, suspension parts, brakes, engine/suspension nuts and bolts, exhaust parts, heat shields, etc..

Loves me some fluid film, but it reeks. Takes a good few months to go away.

So can you use sync voice commands to access the USB drive? Meaning, if you have it selected as a source, can you tell it play track "x" or play album "x"? Can you use Sync voice commands to select it as a source or do you have to go through the head unit screens for that? Same question for the card slot in the headunit. Does voice commands work on those files?

You have Sync? Nothing is 100% plug and play if you want to keep your steering wheel control and voice control stuff. You need additional hardware for that. The idatalink Maestro will allow you to keep your Sync functions and steering wheel controls with the aftermarket head unit. http://maestro.idatalink.com/