IWRBB

Just took out a K&N filter in my F150 that the previous owner had installed. Threw it away and put in a Ford OEM paper filter. I'm officially old.

No spinning. Of course, I'm not just flooring the pedal from a complete stop either. I'm sure I could easily get it to spin in the wet if I tried to do it. I get her moving and squeeze the gas more and more as needed to get in front of someone for example, and I have no tire spin issues. The old Pirellis had no chance of doing the same thing- they were just terrible after 6+ years and about 40K miles. They still had tons of tread since they were rock hard- just no grip. I'm sure the braking distance in a panic stop is vastly improved as well.

Just do a molly bolt or toggle bolt and you won't have to pull the panels.

You are going to have to provide details on your Edge. What year is it? Does it have the sport package? For instance, there are no custom fit mudflaps for the 08-10 sports due to the body kit. I've had good luck with the Ford splash guards on my other vehicles though.

Between the super dark tinted glass, dark grey trim panels and a black floor, I don't know how anyone can see cargo inside an Edge- unless its a base model without tint.

We swapped out the OE Pirelli tires around 40K miles- they were dry rotting and rock hard. Wet traction was horrible. Anything more than easy take offs would spin the tire(s). Now with the Michelin Premieres I can really get on it leaving a stoplight and it never spins.

Ours has worked fine since we've bought it 2 years ago.

Yea I know- was talking to someone while I typed that up. Didn't notice..

The booster just provides assist to the pedal. If the booster goes out, you should still be able to stand on the breaks and get decent stopping power. If it goes to the floor and provides little breaking power, I would also think it's the master cylinder.

Everyone freaks out about tinting lights, and i's obvious it can be taken too far- but Ford went from a clear headlight to a tinted headlight on the 99-04 Mustangs. Same lamp, same housing, but they used a tinted lens. If it's a reasonable amount of tint, it really makes no noticeable difference with the lights on.

I believe it's all done cold- meaning it's spun, but not actually fired on fuel.

You could just copy and paste that into Google. There aint no such thing as a free lunch.

You are looking for a unicorn.

I've never had much issues getting rotors off the hubs, a couple whacks with a hammer always gets them off no problem. The bigger issue I've run into is getting the wheel/tire off the hub. I tried to pull the front wheels off on my 2000 F150 one time and they would not budge. I had to crawl under a hold a 2x4 against the inner wheel lip while someone else beat it with a BFG. That got one side loose, but the other side still wouldn't budge. It took me laying on my back, holding onto the frame and kicking the wheel as hard as I could about a dozen times before it budged. I was almost to the point of leaving the lug nuts slightly loose and driving it in circles until it broke loose. I always put anti seize on hubs after all that BS.

Some people are just stuck in the past when it comes to turning rotors. My crotchety old neighbor (a former welder and heavy equipment mechanic) had a horrible pulsation in his F150 brakes- really, really bad. I rode in the truck and told him- just let me help you replace it all and it'll be like a new truck. I told him to buy either the top of the line Centric or Raybestos pads & rotors, and I'll help you swap them out. So instead, he proceeds to buy just a set of front pads and gets the old front rotors turned. He put it all back together- same problem, maybe a smidge better. I told him again- buy new rotors! A week later I see him out there with a wheel off. I see a new rotor on there, OK that's good. I see new brake pads sitting in the caliper, but with no hardware. No slides, no springs. I say WTF man? He tells me can't fit them in and doesn't need the hardware. I took over and disassembled what he had been working on. First I cleaned up the hub really well using a razor blade and WD40. Then I properly installed the new hardware kit along with the new pads in the caliper bracket. We made sure the pad "ears" slid easily back and forth in the channels (had to file down the rough edge from when the backing plate gets stamped out), properly lubed everything and put it all back together. I said, OK, now you do the other side exactly like I did this side. He did, and the brakes are now 100% perfect. Smooth, quiet, just like a brand new vehicle. I'm guessing he has a new outlook on how to do brakes next time, but unfortunately given his age and limited driving, that is likely the last brake job he'll ever need.

Was driving the Edge the other day in the rain and gave her some decent throttle off the line to get in front of a couple of cars in the other lane. No issues with wet traction anymore. With the old Pirellis it would have been spinning the tire, even if it was dry! Still haven't got to try them in any real snow or ice yet.

The 2010s did not have an OEM backup camera option. So I had to go aftermarket. Just pointing out that they are $25 to $30 all day long on the internet, and I can understand $100 for an OEM camera- probably a (slightly) better piece of hardware. But, $300+ is just crazy.

No chance of dropping the engine on the radiator support that way either!

That is not their standard warranty. It's an extended warranty. It's not available on all of the vehicles either. High dollar, repair prone vehicles are not eligible. Got a Hellcat? Sorry, not eligible. Diesel Grand Cherokee? Nope. Ram 1500 Diesel? Nope. SRT anything? Sorry. Everything that is eligible is total crap and I mean, really- who wants to drive a crappy Fiat product for "life"?

Seems like a lot of "popular" Ford parts have skyrocketed in price recently. Dorman will end up selling them if Ford keeps their prices ridiculously high. Soooo much profit there for the taking. I just installed a camera in our 2010. $30 from Amazon for the camera. Ford is likely paying less than $10 each for theirs and selling them for $300+.

It's "pad slapper", ie "slap a new set of pads on there", ya know what every Midas store advertises.

I don't know what a "rear drive unit (sealed)" is. I assume you are taking about the sealed unit bearings? N/M I see you are referring to the PTU. Co worker has the focus with the DCT. She had a new clutch put in under warranty and is around 90K miles without any further issues.

Love our power liftgate.

I would rather be blown... I have a car with a roots blower on it, and I just made up a user name that wasn't in use on every forum out there. Comes from t-shirts about babys and bottles (nitrous) and the preference of having a supercharger instead.

It's either this, or close to this. https://www.amazon.com/PartsSquare-Fastener-Retainer-Explorer-Transit/dp/B01B165Q28/ref=sr_1_25?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484928972&sr=1-25&keywords=ford I'll measure them up and compare since the listing has a bunch of size specs. Mac- I work all day, I don't have time to get to the Ford parts counter during their bankers hours. I don't know why they don't show up on the online part listings, they show all the other stuff on the gate, but not the trim clips. I can find the clips for the fender flares on my Raptor on the same online site.