IWRBB

I think the question is how to and why should you use a wetting solution to install a rear bumper protector. My answer to that would be so you don't screw up and have it permanently stuck in the wrong position. The fluid lets you move it around some, then when you are happy with the position, you press out the fluid starting from the center working you way out.

Lots of guys are having no-start issues with these on F150s. I guess I don't understand why you can't just give it more throttle yourself if you want it to go faster. ????

The benefit of iridium plugs is not necessarily longer life than platinum plugs- it's that you can run a fine point electrode AND still get long life. The iridium plug will perform better from idle to redline than the platinum plug with it's larger diameter electrode. I run NGK Iridium IX plugs in everything, from my weed eater to my 600 HP supercharged Cobra. The Ford iridium plugs are good too.

Maybe the condensate drain line is clogged and changing speeds makes the pooled water move and uncover the stuff that is generating the funky smell?

So I couldn't find my tread depth gauge, so I used the part on my caliper that you can extend like a depth gauge. It was hard to get a repeatable reading, but it looked like 0.21" up front and 0.225" in back after 10,000 miles. That's puts the front right at 7/32". TireRack shows the starting tread depth as 8.5/32" (not 9 as max stated above). So in approx 10K miles, our tires have worn 1.5/32". If they are done at 3/32, then prorating it out, they should last for 5.5/1.5*10000=36,700 miles. I'm guessing the rubber will harden slightly over time which will help, and the wear rate will also drop some simply due to shorter tread blocks/less squirm. I'm going to say 40K should not be a problem. If I get 40K on a set of tires- I'm OK with that. I'd not be happy if they are done at 25K or 30K as Mac is thinking. If they are warrantied for 60K, I'll just get a new set and take the warranty reimbursement. Love them for traction, noise, handling and ride.

OK, I plan to actually measure the depth tonight. The tires should be close to 9K miles already and have not been rotated yet. I'll figure the exact mileage and post up tread depths for both front and rear. If I can't find my tread depth gauge, I'll break out the caliper and get it that way.

Seems to make sense to me. I'd do it.

Pretty sure we have those same tires on our Edge for the last year or so. I'll see if I can find my tread depth measuring thingy tonight and see what type of wear we've seen so far.

NOOOOO! Do not drive it without coolant. You will destroy the engine. Autom8r- thanks for posting that about the weep hole. It's been said on here it exists, but I've never seen it documented. I'm going to find it and mark it with a paint pen at the next oil change.

The new 3.5 Gen II Ecoboost engines have the plastic pans and have oil leak issues as well.

Whatever you do, the final clearcoat has to be a 2 part (2K) paint or it will never last.

Chrome can be painted. I did it myself with rattle cans in my backyard and it looks great two years later.

Just don't have the time for all that anymore. I'm lucky if I can get one good claybar/wax per year per vehicle. My garage

I can find stuff that is close- but nothing is the same. I really hate having to drive all the way to a dealer to have them look up some stupid clips, but to keep that panel from rattling, it looks like that's what I'm going to have to do. I did find that POM makes them, but again no luck finding it using POM or WD 15 as search terms. Ford, your parts lookup system online sucks. Mazda has all the pins called out for their trim panels, you have none. Mazda even goes as far as showing a side profile drawing of each clip. This isn't 1982 anymore- I should be able to look up every single part that is available for purchase and see a clear picture.drawing of what that part is. Hell- I can do that for a 1977 Ariens rototiller, but not for a 2010 Ford Edge.

OK I pulled the trim panel off again to get at the backup camera wiring so I'd like to get the clips before it goes back on. First pic shows what it looks like, this one has a broken tab. Second pic shows the head diameter. 19mm/0.75 in. Third pic shows the stem diameter where it slides into the plastic trim panel. 6mm/0.25in. Fourth pic shows the stem diameter for the portion that goes into the holen in the metal. 8mm/0.33 in. Hole in the metal body panel measures at 9mm. Last pic shows how it mounts in the trim panel. The head of it says WD 15 and >POM< whatever that means.

If you can't afford to fix your moonroof, don't open it. Simple as that.

The water pump is inside the timing cover for packaging into FWD platforms. Upside is it generally lasts much longer than an external setup since it's not on the front engine accessory drive (FEAD), which is much easier on the bearings and seals. It's also protected from moisture and dirt inside the cover. Downside is, well, it's pretty obvious. What I'd love to see is how it weeps out of the cover and onto the ground as Paul mentioned. Is there an opening in the cover or what? Maybe someone getting their fixed could post some pics of where it would leak out so that area could be visually inspected while under the vechicle.

Can confirm, my brother is a service writer for a VW/Mini/BMW dealer. VWs are junk. BMW and Minis are just as bad, but at least they drive nice.

Get Forscan and turn off hyperflash in the body control module.

Getting the coolant flushed in our 2010 is on my short list. What type did they put in it? I typically run the gold stuff in everything, but I think the Edge came with green.

Only downside that I know of with the 3.5L is the waterpump inside the timing cover. If it starts to leak, you can trash the main bearings. Otherwise, it should run forever.

Wow, we get about 18 to 18.5 in a 2010 Edge with the 3.5L V6 with all city driving. Figured a 2.0L would do better, but it probably has to get into boost a lot in stop and go traffic. Should do better then the V6 at slower highway speeds, but you may do worse at 80+ MPH as it may need boost to steady cruise at those speeds. I'd guess the 2.0L does really well from about 40 to 70 MPH.

Both of the ones on our Sport tailights only have one cover. The other is just bare metal. I think the receiving holes in the body are different as well.

Who has? The OP mentioned nothing about replacing an alternator.

Could be the alternator going out as well. I've had them go intermittent before they failed completely.