IWRBB

It's hard to find even an '08 Edge in the yards around here. There was one '08 in our local yard for a week or so- a base model with no options at all. Haven't seen any other than that. They'll start turning up soon though.

I doubt it. A 2013 is too new to be in found in junkyards unless it wrecked bad. I'd just pay the $60 and be done with it.

Part #3? http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2013/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/exterior-trim-front-door-scat

How are you guys doing your coolant changes?

I hear ya, but it could be a good time to teach your kid about being careful with the finish on a vehicle. We've owned ours for over two years now and my wife loads groceries and a big heavy stroller in and out of it all the time and we have no scratches what so ever on the bumper. Like myself, she cares about how her vehicle looks and makes the effort to not damage it. There are downsides to having it installed as well, mainly when it comes to washing and waxing it. Dirt gets trapped under it and runs out with the drips, it's much harder to fully wax the bumper since you have to avoid it, and if you do get wax on it there's no getting it off. Like I said before, you can always leave it off for now, but install it later if it does get scratched. It's kind of like a bed liner, whether it's installed before or after the bed gets scratched up, it looks the same. Do what you want obviously, that's just my take on it. We thought about putting one on ours as well but never did. I'm glad we didn't. I just waxed it a month or so ago and it was much easier to do the bumper without that giant hunk of bare plastic in the way.

Another option is to leave the bumper protector off and not drop/drag stuff across your bumper. If you still end up damaging the paint, then put it on to cover the damage.

100% Disagree. Nearly all new cars are covered in all kinds of crap that clay will quickly remove. And why would you wait to wax a new car? The dealer is supposed to clean and wax it- but it's half assed at best with some illegal immigrant or a 14 year old kid doing it with the cheapest wax they can find.

The 2010 sport models had those 22" wheels as an option. When we were out shopping for one, we looked at about 6 of them with those wheels and *every* wheel on all of them was curbed, and curbed bad. Rash all the way around every wheel. I started looking more closely at it after about the 4th one with destroyed wheels, and noticed Ford put the narrowest tires possible on there from the factory- so much so that the lip of the wheel is the part that sticks out the furthest. The tire sidewall slopes slightly inward as you go up from the bead of the wheel. It actually looks really bad once you notice how narrow the tire is compared to the wheel. I'd recommend putting tires on there that are wider than OEM if you haven't already, or just don't get close to any curbs with it. We ended up buying one with the 20" wheels because all the 22"s were ruined by the previous owners.

Same here- I bought FWD specifically due to the PTU issue on AWDs.

They are there so the rotors don't fall off before the calipers go on as it goes down the line. Some Fords get a springy washer/star type washer that goes over the lug instead.

Just bought a 2010 today. Nice clean silver SEL. Hard to find a good used car- they are all beat to hell.

There's just something about the CD3 chassis I guess. We've been looking at buying a used Fusion, so I was checking out the Fusion forums and see both of you guys in there posting too.

Wheel size makes no difference. 18", 19"- those are wheel sizes. Tire height/diameter is what matters. If you put tires that are a different diameter than stock, it can mess with the nav.

And, what is this part number?

Tried that BG stuff and had no luck on an Escape. What did work was to get it up to normal temperature, turn the A/C on and with the temp control on high, then sprayed about a half a can of Lysol into the cowl where the air was being sucked in. I did it at a carwash so I could spray off the Lysol residue from the cowl plastic when I was finished. Got rid of the stank and it never came back. The lysol "linen scent" or whatever it was went away after a day or so.

It should never run with the vehicle off, no matter what the coolant temps are. It has to be an electrical issue with the power feed to the fan.

Does it light up the letters on the shifter? PRNDL?

I'd recommend an "impact screwdriver" for those bolts. They look like this. http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679 You hit it with a hammer, and that hammer strike does two things- it drives the bit tight into the bolt to prevent stripping it, and it also slightly turns it counterclockwise to loosen it. Once it's loose, you can take it out with any type of driver after that.

If you could find a u-pull it typre place, you could probably walk out with it for $25 or so. Find the cheapest part called "module" or "computer" on their price chatr and tell them that's what it is. The people checking you out have no clue what every little electric part is on every vehicle made. They sure as hell won't know what a FCIM is for a 2013 Edge! Problem is finding a 2013 in a yard- they are too new and worth too much to get totaled out. I've seen exactly one Edge at our local pull and pay yard- it was a 2008 and was a base model with no options to speak of.

That's pretty much a thing of the past IMO. Studs used to be pressed into the rotor and over-torquing was definitely an issue back then. Nowadays, the studs are pressed into the unit bearing/hub. The rotor just slides over the lugs and gets sandwiched between the hub face and back of the wheel. I just can't see how over-tightening would do anything but sandwich all that metal together even tighter. You'd really have to get *really* crazy with it to deform the hub itself, which would then deform the rotor hat. I think the studs would break or strip before that would happen.

Rotors probably aren't "warped". It's way more likely there are uneven layers of pad material on the rotors. You could try to remove it and re-bed the pads, but you'll never get it off. I'd put new rotors on and re-use the pads assuming there are no deep grooves in the old rotors. Make damn sure they clean that hub extremely well. If you couldn't get the rotor off, there's all kinds of rust back there. For your brakes to be smooth, the new rotor needs to sit against a clean flat hub, not a rough, rusted surface. It's damn tough to clean due to the studs. I use a razor blade and WD40 and scrape it as flat as possible. Every time I do brakes, I wish US made cars had wheel bolts instead of lugs- it'd be 100x easier to clean up the hub face. Lugs sure make it a lot easier to put the wheel and tire on though.

Watched the youtube vid on it. You are still taking an object about the size of your hand and rubbing it all over the entire vehicle. I still don't see how this is any "speedier". It's just rubber instead of clay.

You still gotta take a 5 inch square piece of clay and rub it over every inch of paint. I don't see how it could be any faster or slower than any other type of clay.

Most people never look under the hood of their car- ever. Ford knows their market. They clear coat the engine bay of Mustang Cobras- no other Mustangs got clear in the engine bay. They know the guys with the nice engine under the hood want a nice looking engine bay as well.

I gotta think there is a wiring harness going to the sensor under the bumper that could be unplugged.