IWRBB

I meant quantity wise- was it a pint or two gallons?

How much did you put in?

I bought this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY Works fine with Forscan. I reprogrammed a few things on my truck and my brothers truck.

I couldn't run the camera wiring through the stock wire loom/rubber boot, so I drilled a new hole and run it through there. I put a rubber grommet on it to prevent chafing of the wires. The hole is up top, just above the weatherstripping.

https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/make-driving-fun/michelin-latitude-tour-hp-vs-michelin-premier-ltx

I agree. I would not crack open a 30K mile engine unless I suspected issues with it. An impact gun will take that crank bolt out no problem if you still want to get in there.

Anywhere from $500 to $10,000. Are you trying to re-paint it to sell it? Then hit up Maaco and do it on the cheap. If you plan to keep it a long time- I'd guess you are looking at a minimum of $3,000 for a quality paint job in the OEM color. Just the paint, filler, sandpaper, tape, masking, and cleanup chemicals add up real quick. A color change will drive the cost way up if you want the jambs to match. The one vehicle I had re-painted was a cheap Maaco job 20 years ago. I pulled as much trim as I could before I took it to them- head and tail lights, wipers, mirrors etc. It held up pretty damn good considering it was only $350.

Good to hear. Our 2010 seems to be pretty good about not rusting so far. I've had some seriously rusty Fords in the past, so I am slightly paranoid in regards to rust.

I put a vinyl overlay on our 2010. It's not as shiny, but I was able to get a black background instead of blue to match the blacked out grille.

Never said anything of the sort did I? You asked if I was as smart as Ford's engineers. I said I am. The wheels and tires on the truck are not OEM. Therefore, they were never "designed" to run at 44 PSI. I am confident it is not unsafe in any way, despite all the nay-sayers here. I don't consider them to be under inflated. With how I use the truck, I consider 44 PSI over inflated- as evidenced by a chalk test and by the wear pattern on the previous set of tires. I have checked the tread wear on the new tires at the lower pressure, both with the chalk method and over the long term. I have checked tire temps and tire pressures after driving at high speeds, and for long distances. It doesn't heat up any more than the OEM tires at the OEM pressures did. Maybe a degree or so, but nothing that is truly a measurable difference. The hot pressures are only 2-3 PSI higher than the cold pressures which is normal. In the engineering field- the correct answer to any questions is always "it depends". The door sticker pressure is based on OEM tires and wheels, which are both long gone. What is an acceptable pressure for different wheels and tires? It depends. It depends on load, speeds, and temperatures. So back to your original question- would I stamp it at 36 PSI? No way in hell. Ford has to use a number that works for a truck that is running at it's top speed, non-stop until the fuel tank is empty, fully loaded, and in the hottest possible conditions. Absolute worst possible scenario for the tires. If I was to use my truck like that- you can be damn sure I'd not be running less than the door sticker. Ford cannot count on a customer to adjust their air pressures as needed, so they have to assume the worst case scenario to cover their ass. If you remember, some car user manuals used to actually recommend different tire pressure for different loads and speeds. That's all gone due to the inability of people to use their brains anymore. Lawyers have driven us to the point where you are all berating me for running less then the "balls-out" pressure when the truck is unloaded. Sad times.

You guys are right, my truck will roll over in turns and the tires will catch fire and explode. I'll go put them all back at 44 PSI right away.

Well, since you asked- I'm at least as smart as them. Got my PE stamp right here. You guys can scream "DOOR STICKER!!!!" all you want but if you are going to preach to me- at least bring the goddamn tech. Tell me please, how exactly is 36 PSI too low? Why is 44 PSI the magic pressure? If 44 is safe, wouldn't 45 be safer? Why does Ford let it drop to 38 before turning on the light? What's too high? What's too low? Is 44 PSI the only pressure that is safe? Does it matter that OEM tire was C range and the current tire is E range? I know why and how. There are printed specs on LT tires provided my the manufacturer. There are minimum pressures required to carry certain loads. My truck weighs 6000 lbs. According to the manufacturer of my tires, if it's aired up to 44 PSI, each tire can carry a load of 3000 pounds. The same tire aired up to 36 psi can only carry 2400 lbs. So even if I manged to get 83% of my trucks weight (4800 lbs) on one axle (not possible BTW), I am still safe to run all day at that load, and do it at the maximum speed the tire is rated for. Let's say I actually DO load it up to the legal limit. Max payload is only 1000 lbs. Now I have 7000 lbs to carry. I'd have to get 68% of the weight on one axle to fully load the tires at 36 PSI. Again, not possible, but even if I could, it'd be safe to run that way ALL day and at MAX speed.

The tires are fine at 36 psi. I don't need 44 psi in a 315/70/17 tire to run around with an unloaded half ton. I'd rather have a nicer ride than save on gas. I appreciate the concern, but I'm perfectly capable of managing air pressures in my vehicle without anyone's help. If I'm going on a long road trip, or loading it up I'll bump up the pressures as needed. Slow leaks aren't a concern- i check my tire pressures. Just did yesterday. If it goes flat while driving, I'll pull over and change it. The light won't keep it from going flat.

Three main reasons- I don't need it. I've driven many thousands miles over 30+ years without it, I can manage without. Second was I bought a second set of wheels and tires and didn't want to spend $150 on sensors. Third, I don't like the pressure settings- Ford calls for 44 psi in the tires, and the light comes on at 38. I run about 36 psi running around unloaded.

As I understand it, the nav in motion change in Forscan is to a line of data that represents the "country code". So I'm thinking it may be illegal for the OEMs to have nav entry while in motion enabled in the US, but not in other countries. Making that change also disables Sirius Travel Link, I assume that's because they think you are not in the US and have no use for it. I haven;t seen much on the new Edges, but there a ton of stuff the guys with F150s and Superdutys have figured out. On my '13 F150, I turned on the turn signals as DRLs, enabled nav in motion, disabled the TPMS, and removed the Sirius inputs from the headunit list.

I used forscan to turn on nav in motion on my 2013 F150. It can probably be done on the Edge as well- depending on the year and what hardware it has.

It is pressed in based upon looking at pics of the bearing on Rockauto.

Nav in motion can be done with Forscan.

2 ton jacks are pretty small. If this is for your home garage, I'd get the larger 3 ton model. Much more stable and safe.

In general, those 12V power points are wired with some hefty wire, so I really doubt any type of charger could overload them. Look up the fuse rating for the 12V power point- that'll tell you how many maps you can safely pull. Or just run it and if the fuse blows, you know you've overloaded it!

Do you grease the slides and pads ears? I'll usually add some grease to the slide area with a small brush every time the tire is off as well.

I remember reading the first few posts in this thread thinking, this is going to be a widespread issue. Here it is 100 posts and 10,000 views later.

Drilled rotors suck.

The ones that get wrecked get bought by someone like LKQ who strip it and sell used body parts to body shops for repairs. The sweet spot is about 15 years old when they start showing up in the "U-pull it" type lots. They aren't worth enough at that age to repair when they get wrecked, or the engine blows, or whatever.

That Edge is gone now, they only last a month or so before they get crushed. They don't have any there now. You have to pull the parts yourself anyways, so unless you are local it'd do you no good. Try searching for local junkyards around you. LKQ has a few around here, U-pull-n-pay is the one I go to. Google auto salvage, or used auto parts. Do it with a regular web search, then try going to Google maps and typing it in there. .