IWRBB

The hubs rings will be listed by both sizes, since both are applicable. It will have a 63.4mm inner diameter and a 72.6mm outer diameter. It's an 18" wheel, so I highly doubt your brakes will rub. You can always test fit it before you put tires on them to make sure. Here are some plastic ones for example. http://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Centric-72-6mm-63-4mm-Yellow/dp/B01E3Q8S46/

Yea, the offset seems fine since the wheel is 1/2" wider. You need to see if you can find hubrings to take up the gap between the car's 63.4mm hub and the wheel's 72.6mm center bore. They are a PITA to use, but it'll get the wheel centered perfectly. I'd get metal ones if possible (as opposed to plastic) and throw a light coat of anti-seize on them.

I dunno- seems a bit, over cautious? Of course there's always the chance of anything happening, and we can fear monger until our fingers bleed. I guess if you want one, go for it.

I hear you, but I think if the fire is bad enough to threaten the life of an occupant trapped after a wreck, you aren't putting it out with a little 10 lb extinguisher. Maybe if you catch it early and they would be trapped for a long time. If you still want to keep one in the vehicle, consider carefully how and where it's mounted. You don't want it cracking you in the back of the head during that same wreck. Or maybe you do, it'd be easy to find, right?

If it catches fire, just let it burn. You really don't want to try to repair fire damage to anything, a car, a house, whatever. It's not like a Ford Edge os some collectible vehicle. Enjoy the show as it burns, make an insurance claim, and get another one.

No- the average shop runs those nuts on until the gun won't spin them anymore. I just pulled some lugnuts off our Fusion that were easily at 200 ft-lbs. I had to give it pretty much everything I had on a 4 way to break it loose. A bunch of pinging, squeaking and tinking noises as they loosened- you know what I'm talking about if you've had to removed overtorqued lugs before. Tire Discounters put the tires on before we bought the car according to the Carfax report, so it was those assholes that did it. Luckily none of the lugs were damaged. What size lug studs and what thread pitch do these newer ones have? You should be able to get a good estimate of the required torque just from that. The point is to slightly stretch the stud to provide a clamp load, just like and bolts/studs.

162 N-M is basically 120 lb-ft. I wonder if they used the metric rating but English units.

Ford should have kept the manual seatback on the passenger side so they can do the fold flat, but used the power seat back for the driver so the memory setting can fully adjust the seat.

I feel for ya- there was no way I was buying a 2011 or 2012 with that damn touchscreen controlling everything. Our 2010 Edge still has old school buttons for everything. Ford wised up and went back to buttons for most stuff. My 2013 F150 has buttons for everything except the heated and cooled seats. For some stupid reason, that's on the touchscreen only.

Is your name really James McGill?

My point is the capless filler using a design that has a large open/recessed area that leads to the fuel tank seems to be, not the best? The gas door seal may work for now, but if the seal is damaged, then what? New filler neck and fuel door? . Could it not have had a flapper at the top of the "hole" as a deterrent to debris and dust? The whole setup just seems like a solution to a problem that never existed, which in turn fails and actually creates problems that never existed. A $6 gas cap is a lot easier to replace than a filler neck. I guess I'm just a luddite.

I don't care if it locks or not- I just want a cap to keep dirt out of the fuel filler. It's begging for dirt and dust to collect in there with the way it's designed. I wish it just had an old school setup with a normal cap really. Our '10 Edge has a normal cap, and I'm glad it does.

Just had our 2010 Fusion pop a P0456 code the other day. Internet says filler neck or purge valve. I cleared it and it hasn't come back yet. I use a locking "cap" on the capless filler of my F150 to keep out dirt and dust- maybe I should do the dame to keep crud out of the filler on the Fusion too.

How many miles do you have on it?

I did the H9 to H11 mod. It's a noticeable difference. I also went with the 9011 HIR mod in the high beams. Again, a noticeable difference.

You're just going to have to get a similar log on another Edge to know for sure. I agree that timing is way low. I don't think the AFR is too far out of whack though- it's always really rich with an OEM tune at WOT. Could be the cat overtemp protection kicking in too.

http://www.nbroringkit.com/

Can you guys with the latest Gen Edges do the roll all the windows up/down thing with fob? I know the 15+ F150s can do that with a Forscan mod. That's one of the coolest things you can do with Forscan IMO.

I'd bet it was the ABS as well. If you were turning and braking at the same time, it's easy to get the ABS to engage on the side that is unloaded by the turn.

So the three things they cite as issues with dumping coolant: 1) The whole animal/kids drinking it thing. That's well known, and is not an issue in my case as it mainly runs into the cracks between the driveway slabs. Anything that makes it to the bottom gets hosed into grass. Nothing is puddled, nothing is drank by animals. It's just not possible unless a kid is licking the soil as I'm hosing it off. They have more issues than a bit of glycol in their system if they are in my lawn licking the soil. 2) Lead contamination. Not an issue with anything made in the last 20+ years. Lead/tin solder in radiators is a thing of the past. Aluminum and iron should be all the coolant is exposed to nowadays, and they are not toxic. 3) High BOD. If it is dumped right into a lake or stream, sure- that's a problem. If it is dumped down a sewer that goes to the WWTP, a couple gallons of glycol is not going to cause any issues with the WWTP. Might as well stop shitting in your toilet if you are concerned about sending high BOD material to the WWTP. If I owned a shop that went through thousands of gallons of coolant a year, of course I would get it recycled. However, a couple gallons of coolant drained from a modern vehicle which is then diluted by a bunch of water from a garden hose, running into my lawn once every 5 years is not an issue. From a total environmental impact standpoint- I actually feel that what I do is the "greenest" way to dispose of it. It gets eaten by bacteria in the soil and that's that. Recycling it has an environmental cost that cannot be ignored. Used coolant doesn't move itself- so fuel is burned to move it. What burns the fuel? Trucks. Would that truck even exist if it wasn't needed to haul used coolant around? The environmental impacts/benefits of recycling are not as simple as people think. To reiterate- I don't think you should just dump a shit ton of coolant on the ground and just call it good, but dispersing it into the soil in very limited amounts separated by long time periods is not a problem, and is likely the most environmentally sound way of disposing of it when you look at the total picture.

I'd still suspect the battery. Used cars are notorious for batteries that test OK but are really weak. They sit so much and get jumped all the time. Personally, I put a new battery in any used car I buy if there's any question at all about it's condition.

I've used tap water before, it's never caused any problems. We have pretty good water though- it comes from an aquifer and they only have to treat it for hardness and put some chlorine in it. If your tap water is not very good, or you are on well water, go for the pre-mix or buy water at the store. The need for distilled water is blown way out of proportion to any real importance it may actually have. Some guys say using water without any ions is detrimental and will attack the metal in the system. I know DI water systems have to use stainless or plastic piping in industrial applications to keep the water from eating the pipes. The glycol in the antifreeze is what actually causes corrosion in a car's cooling system, and the coolant manufacturers put additives in the coolant to prevent that. The additives get used up over time, which is why you need to change your coolant. The glycol itself is good forever essentially. As far as disposal, I drain it right onto my driveway and hose any puddles at the bottom of the driveway into the lawn. Never a problem. Both propylene glycol and ethylene glycol are readily biodegradable as far as I know. If you are paranoid about it, just dump it down the drain and send it to the WWTP. Unless the cooling system is nasty already, which I'm sure yours is not- I also think there's no real need to do a full flush if you don't have the ability to do so. Yea, it's better, and ideal to do it that way if possible, but the drain and refill of just the radiator will suffice. Do that every couple years and you'll be fine. If you are worried about not completely flushing it and don't have the ability to do so, pay for a full flush now, and then do a drain/fill of the radiator every few years. I need to change the coolant in at least three of my vehicles now that I think about it...

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/edge/se-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-front-door-scat Switch bezel - #14.

Typically to remove a Ford door trim, you lift up at the front.

I think you need to just start with a more aggressive material, then work your way up to less aggressive stuff. It's like you are trying to remove 40 grit sanding scratches with 2000 grit paper. If you started with 220, to moved onto 320, then 400, then 600, then 800, then hit it with polish, you'd be done in about 20 minutes. Pop the piece out of the door and wet sand it. Don;t move onto the next grit until you removed all the scratches from the coarser grit.