IWRBB

Extract and replace is fine IMO. Small shavings don't harm the hardened steel gears. The issue is the oil breaking down and providing no lubrication- which the extract and replace corrects.

Where are you finding this info? It seems impossible to work on anything new-ish without this kind of detail.

Yep, less than a month left. We got it back- seems OK, but after having it for 2 weeks it came back with the added bonus of a door ding. Now we have to get the dealer to acknowledge it was thewir staff that dented it- and get it fixed. This is why I avoid taking my cars to anyone and service them myself whenever possible...

So it was low coolant after all. Turns out coolant was leaking into the cylinders. Needs a replacement engine. Ford is covering a longblock replacement under the 5yr/60K powertrain, which was going to expire in July. Has 40K miles on it. Drive it home and we are waiting for the new engine to come in to get it replaced. It's the first Ford I've ever had trouble with the shortblock, and I've owned quite a few.

Cheked the coolant first thing. Now that it's hot- it's doing the same thing in reverse, kind of. Wife says the A/C get's warm on the highway or at RPMs above 2000. Slow down or drop the RPMs and the A/C goes cold again. It's going to the dealer soon, I have no clue what it's doing.

2019 ST with around 40K miles. We get no heat at all unless you are above 2000 RPMs. Then it works as normal. I did see a code using Forscan about a coolant pump- but it never turned on the light, it's just stored. I will pull it again and get the number. I also tried the method to recalibate the HVAC system and everything didi what it was supposed to in that process, but nothing changed. I'm about to take it to the dealer, but I thought I'd make a post here first to see if the hive mind has knowledge.

Well, then we have the update prior to the June 2nd update. Still no issues.

We've had the latest update since March and so far no clunks. Nice job Ford. If Ford would only fix the noisy moonroof/shade instead of saying could not duplicate, we'd be good. My wife is taking someone from their dealer around to hear the noise next time.

I always thought it was the rear gate "unlocking" after sensing the key, but I guess now that I think about it there is no true lock on the gate like the doors have.

For anyone reading this in the future, I took the plates off the car and used a hydraulic press to push out the old bearing. It took a LOT of pressure but we did not bend the plates.

I know when people arrive at my house because I can hear V6s and I4s when they pull in the driveway. You can't hear the exhaust, you just "feel" the rumble created of the lack of firing events. Never forget rolling around in a manual trans 1990s Civic with one cylinder out, and 5 people in the car. You could clearly feel each cylinder firing as we took off from a stop on an uphill.

It's fine. A single LCA is capable of handling 100% of the weight of the vehicle, and then some. I mean, you CAN do damage jacking on the wrong control arm at the wrong spot- but assuming he had a clue as to what he was doing, it's not a problem.

It's not a recall because it's not a safely issue. It's a major inconvenience, and a design flaw, but it's not a safety thing. If nobody is getting injured or dying- no recall. As for #3, you could pull the wiper setup and seal up the hole if you are willing to live without the wiper. Find a good body plug and silicone it in. It'd be just like driving a sedan at that point. "Rear wiper delete Mod"

We haven't taken it in yet as we'll need to strip everything out of it first, but let me know if you find anything on yours.

By short shifting at under 5000 RPMs you are giving up the mechanical advantage of the lower gear before you have to. If it was faster in the quarter to shift sooner, Ford would have had it shift sooner.

I don't if you can. All service procedures for the track I've seen start with "remove accordion covers and discard". It may be something that needs to be installed before the roof unit goes in the car. Not sure.

Did you buy this Edge new or used?

That'd probably work. I'd still sjtu buy a new PTU and put it in if I was yanking the old one. They aren't that expensive and if you change the fluid they will last. You can wrap the exhaust pipes and/or make better heat shields around the cats to help preserve the seals.

No. If it works for you, don't touch it. If you get a new phone and have issues or something, then update it.

The auto HS / MS CANBUS switching is nice, assuming it works.

Read the TSB. It's in the second paragraph.

Nah man- I heard from a guy online that Powerstop parts are the way to go. You can get them as kits real cheap!

This is a TSB. I guarantee your dealer is filing it with Ford under warranty work and as a customer complaint, They aren't just doing it for you because they are such a wonder dealer of automobiles.

Whatever floats your boat dude. If you want Powerstop brake parts on your vehicle, go for it! I've done my research and have hands on experience with the brands discussed here. I gave you my input, if you choose to ignore it, so be it.