Harkengear

Thanks a lot for the reply, macbwt. You were exactly correct - brute force and colorful language did it for me. The tightest bonds were on a couple of the four bolts attaching the calliper assembly (broke a socket wrench) and for both rotors . They both required a lot of smacking with a short sledge hammer. The best move was the pulling strike where the bottom of the head of the hammer hits the back of the rotor - two hits and rotate 30 degrees, repeat for a couple minutes then smack the front a bit to counter. I had to do this for 10 minutes at least on both rotors. It wasnt all perfect - theres a 40 torx screw that holds on the rotor (aside from the lug nuts). I stripped the head out of the screw on the divers sids and had to drill it out. So there is now no screw on that side... But on other vehicles I've seen, it's the lug nuts that hold the rotor on and I dont thik the Edge is any different... Its all back together and the test drive went great. Last thing - My pads were worn to the steel on both sides - 100% bare!! This vehicle is just past 25K Miles. What in the hell is that about?? Ruined rotors and bare pads... I see others mentioning the possiblility that the parking break is not disengaging completely, even though the pedals out and theres no warning signals. That's the only thing I can think that would cause that much wear that fast. It's my wife's car and she is one of the safest, quietest drivers I know... anyway, a bit frustrating But overall, glad I was able to get the job done and save a bunch of money. Also gave me an excuse to get a nicer socket wrench...

Im doing my rear rotors on a 2013 now. They're not coming off easily... Was there a trick to this? I've removed the whole calliper assembly and the small screw on the rotor itself. I've sprayed PB Blaster into every opening. I've been smacking it with a mallet but wanted to check if I'm skipping a step or something...