enigma-2

Not listed, but It's covered. (Not exempted). I've used my premiumcare for things like seat lumbar replacment (both seats). Not listed but still covered. In-fact I just used it this week and they told me that the bill was just over $2800.

Just wait. It's biding its time, snickering, plottong, rubbing its gears together ......

This video may help.

Seems logical that the knob just pressed on, but I'm not sure with this panel. If I were you, I'd pop the consul cover off the dash and remove the screws on the cover on the back. Here's a link to an ebay auction showing the back of the consul part. (Pix 2 of 8). (You will probably remove the cover to wrap anyway.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/373754208830?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KJIb5MelRC-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'm taking my MKX in on Wednesday to get the passenger seat TED replaced and have the a/c system serviced (three new Schrader valves, pump down to test vacuum then recharge). The TED is covered by extended warranty, hoping the a/c is under $200. Was thinking about tbe $400 quote. Did she have front and rear A/C? These cars are a lot more expensive to service and do take a lot more refrigerant.

Not as bad as I thought it would be.

Never had a complaint in my MKX with THX. In all of the loaners the dealer gave me, had really bad sound systems.

Felt the same way. Local garage couldn't get gold anymore and wanted to switch me over to yellow. I challenged and demanded Ford Engineering to state in writing that it wad ok. Got a response in writing from Ford regional manager stating Ford backed the use of yellow after flush. Dealer said other products were discontinued and all they use id yelllow. Foe my own knowledge I put a label (labelmaker) on the reservoir with note of using yellow and date switched. (Also label air filter date and cabin filter date.)

My dealer no longer stocks any coolant than the new yellow. I had my system flushed and refilled with yellow (original was gold). Here's the Form memo explaining it all

In my 09 MKX the rear windows are split into two windows, one basically square, one triangular shaped. The square window goes all the way down and provides plenty of opening; while the small triangular window is fixed. This type of design is the only way you can get a window, with the rear wheel imposing into the door area, to be "rolled" all the way down. Please excuse the messy garage. I dropped the window 1/2 down to show the contrast, but it does in fact go alm the way down. Shame they dropped this design.

Unless of course, all the refrigerant and dye leaked out. I had this happen when a reciever popped a seam and lost all refrigerant in the system.

Man I don't blame you. That's twice as high the National average. There must have been parts involved. Perhaps a failed receiver/dryer or something.

Probably not. I had a windshield leak after replacment, glass company applied extra sealant where needed. Five minute job. Did you have to pay for the windshield? Can you share the price? (Curious about what a modern windshield costs now).

RDU bearings will howl when they are worn. Also worn ring & pinion. As you ran low of lub may be worth pulling the cover and have a look. (You probably need seals anyway). Whats the cost of rebuilding differential (you have a AWD right)?

Was. Ford is forcing all their dealers to do this to build customer base. When I called them for service appointment they finished with "are we picking it up or will you be bringing it in"? Asked them when I dropped it off and they said all dealers doing this now. They also had about a half-dozen loaners available. Mostly year old F150's and some Expedition's. Something else, when I got the loaner all I needed was drivers license and insurance info. About a half hour later I got a text with a link. The link takes you to a website where you review and sign contract. Much easier than before. Only problem was they showed fuel tank as full (default) and truck only had 1/4 tank. Phone call to dealer fixed it.

BTW, forgot to add, Ford service centers now come to your house, leave you a loaner for the day, drive your car to the dealership and service it, then bring it back. Don't even have to leave home to get car repaired. Plus you have a loaner. Free!

Wife likes to pop on the seat heater whenever we go anywhere. (Never uses seat a/c). Problem popped up in March, turn on seat, stays on for 2-minutes and then shuts off. Doesn't get hot. Took to dealer yesterday (they gave me a new F150 as a loaner, 4 wd, super quiet, smooth, like driving a tank). Diagnostic Technician checked wiring, module and TED. Turned out the TED failed. Will take 5 days to get in. $849 (or thereabouts). They fully expected me to say "no way" but got "ok, fix it". Guy on phone choked. Repeated the price. Said "fine". "Should be covered by Lincoln warranty. (2009 Lincoln MKX). Guy got authoritarian reminding me that the factory warranty ran out years ago. Said no, extended warranty. (On a 2009)? So he looked it up and there it was. Covered? Yup. Going back to get it put in next week, plus 3 new Schrader valves and a/c recharge, plus full 174 check (certified used) inspection. (Want to find everything I can before extended warranty runs out next month).

Different circuits,, only common denominator is the harness. Sounds to me like the harness is unplugged. Have you pulled the console down and checked if it's plugged in? Did this start after a visit to the dealer?

Did you check to see if the ticking stopped after you removed each coil? (Isolate coil-by-coil to see if ticking stops).

Doubtful. Most leakage occurs down inside the socket near the bottom of the skirt. One possible way to isolate the problem would be to remove each coil one at a time and see if the ticking in the audio stops. No problems for straight 4's but a pain on V-6 cyl. Might be easier to disable the coil by unplugging them one at a time and check audio. Ticking stops, you found the coil causing the ticking.

I have a 2009 MKX. She gets a trip to the car wash throughout the winter whenever they salt the roads. No rust. Grand kids buy grampa car wash coupons for Xmas. Great gift. Haven't tried it, but a lot of people swear by Fluid Film. Best to find a professional to spray the bottom of the car as messy. Goes right over rust and stops it dead.

Have you checked the fluid level in the power steering reservoir?

Couple of thoughts (although I've never experienced this myself). 1. Check the condition of the control arm bushings. You could have a bad bushing or something broken. 2. Check the condition of the front struts. Bad struts can make the nose dip in a tight turn which unloads the rear suspension causing the car to hop. 3. Wheel alignment is bad. Does the car track straight (or did someone misalign the rear to the front)?

When you replaced the pads, did you notice the pins sticking? Did you clean out the old grease before greasing and replacing the pins? Stuck pins can cause one side to stick and not contact the rotors same as the caliper side. Only way to tell if the rotors are too thin is the check the specks and mike the roters thickness. Did you notice if the rotors had a lot of deep groves? You can have them turned if there's enough thickness left.

If you're considering manual, why not just go with air shocks. Lot cheaper and old technology. Want a stiffer ride, just pump them up (and don't forget a mouth guard).