enigma-2

You have a leak. Take it to a "good" mechanic (I prefer my local Ford dealer, but it costs more), and have him smoke to vapor lines. Only way to pin it down is with a smoke machine.

Pulled this off another forum. Yes an exhaust leak within 24 inches after the downstream O2 sensors can trigger P0420 and P0430 codes. A flex joint in the exhaust system sometimes only leaks when the power train is under load as the engine twists on it's mounts. May be worth checking out..

A leaking vacuum hose can cause this. Had exactly the same thing. Smell of gas in garage, nothing on floor. Happened after fill up, never overfilled. Eventually the hose set a CEL. Ford garage said the hose was down behind the back of the engine (facing cabin). Had to pull manifold to get to it. Had extended warranty which covered cost. Think they said it would have been around $300 (mostly labor), but that was years ago.

Think I read where it was related to something in the planetary gear assembly. Bearing or something. If so, could be a good reason why they replace the xmission rather than tear it down. Let us know what they find.

Hi UnholyDjMiku, Did you ever replace your LED high brake lamp assy?

Glad you found the fuses popped. Concerning the frozen rear washer, I had that hapoen to me right after I bought the car. Appeariently the dealer in his wondrous wisdom, filed the washer bottle with tap water. The front thawed from engine heat, but the rear didn't due to the long run of hose inside the ceiling. Finally got it to thaw when I got the cabin hot enough to warm the hose. (Also sprayed the rear nozzle with ice melt).

Does the door open lamp illuminate when the car is running and you open a door? If it doesn't illuminate, I'd suspect one of the switches located in the door latch is corroded and the warning indicator is (or was made) defective. <edit> BTW, did you check the hatchback switch? With car running, open the hatch and see if you get a warning lamp on the instrument panel.

Definitely send it back for the core refund. Fixing the old unit involves pouring more money into it and then it sits on a shelf for .... years? Your tying up $$ and still ending up with a possibility a unit that doesn't fit a future engine.

Beed discussed here at length. Personally I feel Ford would have spec'ed a lower temp thermostat if it helped performance, emissions or milage. It's spec'ed at 190° for a reason. Anyway:

Probably. But they ticket here in Indiana for dark tint.

Nice, we can't do it here in Indiana, 15% is illegal.

The car smartkey transmitter's signal is strong enough to go through the home walls, especially if it was left near an outside wall. The signal gets picked it up by the relay receiver outside the home. His relay receiver then transmits the code to the other crook who stands near the car drivers window and uses the recieved code to unlock the door and then start the car. It's called a "relay station attack". Some modern cars have methods to prevent this, but older cars are still susceptible.

Sorry to hear that. By the looks of it, I may be a candidate for this someday. VA just sent me in for a MRI. Result was I'm suffering from old age. Hope you're getting along ok, know it's difficult.

See if this helps. One thing that can cause this is to manually close the liftgate, but not latch it. To reset the power liftgate: 1. Disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then, reconnect the battery. 2. Manually close and fully latch the liftgate. 3. Power open the liftgate by using the integrated keyhead transmitter, or the instrument panel control button. Note: If the power liftgate system is turned off in the message center, the system cannot be activated with the outside release handle or rear cargo area control button. The system will need to be turned on to resume operation with the outside release handle or rear cargo area control button. The power liftgate is still operational through the use of the remote entry transmitter and instrument panel button when the power liftgate is turned off in the message center.”

This happened to my MKX once years ago. I stopped it by spraying WD-40 on the weatherstripping and then wiping to just leave a film. (WD-40 repells water.)

There's also Sirius XM. Not as high fidelity, but good selection of categories.

I'd try connecting the tweeter to the woofer through the use of jumpers with alligator clips; as a test to see if it's just a missing harness. If it does, it's just the harness. If it doesn't, it's either the tweeter or the crossover on the woofer. There has to be a reason the harness was removed, it would never have left the factory without it. Did you buy the car used?

You can contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center at (800) 392-3673. According to the Ford website, reporting a Successful SYNC Update is completed by following the following instructions. Insert the flash drive you used for the update into your computer. Go to the SYNC and Navigation Updates page. Scroll down to Step Three: Confirm Update. Click on Browse for log file. Browse the flash drive you used to update your SYNC system. Select the XML log file in the "SYNCMyRide" folder, for example, sync_48474463_1A2B3C4D5E6F8G8H9.xml. Your file name will differ because it will contain your Vehicle Identification Number.

I'll take a guess as to what's going on. The switches are mechanical switches with embedded resistors. When you press a switch, it sends a current flow at a specific voltage to the ACU. When a switch fails, it's normally only one switch. As you have multiple switches failing, I think it's safe to assume it's probably not the switch unit. UNLESS.. there's a corrosion problem in the unit or at the connector. As some signal is getting through, think we can assume the clock spring is functioning properly. That takes us to the either a failure in the APU or APIM (I'm not certain where the signal is processed in the 14.) My initial guess is corrosion somewhere. I'd pull the switchpack and start looking for corrosion there. Then the clockspring unit.

Check to see if you have selected "make primary" to default to your phone.

These are designed for the 20 titanium but require drilling. (I don't believe that I've ever seen any no-drill for the titanium or sport.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/284337160678?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&amp;ssspo=i26t0jm7sbm&amp;sssrc=4429486&amp;ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&amp;var=&amp;widget_ver=artemis&amp;media=COPY

States on page that they don’t fit the Edge titanium with the elite pkg.

Ever get this fixed?

Northern Indiana, they love to use salt. Then even salt the roads if it's just cloudy. No undercoat. Use one of those electronic metal protectors (that's used to reseal the galvanizing) -AND- run it through the car wash (which has a under spray) anytime after they salted the roads. During the winter that usually means once a week. No rust (other than the driveshaft.)

I know it sounds silly, but I use my Brother labeler to print out a small strip and label when I changed my air cleaner element (date and milage) & cabin air cleaner element. Surprising how easy it is to forget these things.