enigma-2

As an additional thought, have you tested your cold cranking capacity Amperage, of your vehicle battery? Low voltage can also cause the shift solenoid from functioning and cause various other systems from responding.

It's on page 188-9 of the owners manual. ------- "STOPPING THE ENGINE WHEN YOUR VEHICLE IS MOVING WARNING: Switching off the engine when your vehicle is still moving results in a significant decrease in braking assistance. Higher effort is required to apply the brakes and to stop your vehicle. A significant decrease in steering assistance could also occur. The steering does not lock, but higher effort could be required to steer your vehicle. When you switch the ignition off, some electrical circuits, for example airbags, also turn off. If you unintentionally switch the ignition off, shift into neutral (N) and restart the engine. E357998 1. Press and hold the push button ignition switch until the engine stops, or press it three times within two seconds. 2. Shift into neutral and use the brakes to bring your vehicle to a safe stop. 3. Shift into park (P). 4. Apply the parking brake."

... and any assistance or recommendations of anything that should be addressed maintenance wise, or preventive maintenance wise would be greatly appreciated. This response is a little late, but I'll give you my recommendations. Fluids Change the transmission fluid (important), PTU fluid (important), the coolant (important), the brake fluid, the power steering fluid, and the rear axle fluid. I'm assuming that the oil was changed on schedule. Look for a sticker & if its over mileage or missing completely, change the oil. Only use a Motorcraft filter. ->Consider having to oil change at local Ford dealer and request a "The Works" oil change. It includes a ¹synthetic blend oil change, ²tire rotation (and ³pressure check), ⁴brake inspection, ⁵vehicle checkup (ask for a close look at steering and suspension components, ⁶fluids top-off, ⁷battery test, ⁸filter check & ⁹belts/hoses check. Filters Check the engine air filter. Change the cabin air filter (definitely check this one, often over looked and can be harbor bacteria. Its located behind the glove compartment. There are YouTube videos that show how to change. Amazon has dozens for sale, use Motorcraft as your starting point.) If car has heated/cooled seats, (not heat only), there's a "filter" of sorts under the center of each seat. Use a flashlight and check to make certain its clear and there's nothing under to seat to block the fan intake. (It's opening is round, around 3" in diameter, under seat neater center.) Lights Do a walk around and make certain all lights are working. Have someone step on brakes when you check. Tires Check the spare tire for air pressure. This is often overlooked and they tend to leak down slowly & nearly flat when needed. Inflate to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Check air pressure in ALL four regular tires. Inflate to the pressure marked on the sticker on door pillar (NOT pressure marked on tire.) Rotate tires, drivers to passenger rear, passenger rear to passenger front, passenger front to drivers rear & drivers rear to drivers front. Wipers Check wiper blades. If new needed, drivers is 26", passenger is 20". These are beam type. Rear is 14", bow style. There are YouTube videos available to show you the secret to replace rear blade. (Bosch and Trico are the best, longest lasting.) Check windshield washer fluid. Do not use plain water. Check that it sprays on windshield AND rear window properly. Moon roof If she has a moon roof, consider spraying the track with silicone spray. Plugs Normally you change spark plugs at around 90k. Its a little early, but wouldn't hurt. (Not too bad on a 4-cylinder, but a 3.5L, V6 will run around $650.) It's very important that the plugs get changed on schedule as the older they get, the wider the gap and the more current it takes to fire them. More current means more heat in the coils. If the coils get too hot, they fail. If they fail by burning open, you only need change the coil (hundred bucks or so.) However if the coil shorts, it takes out the PCM (can get a rebuilt for around $250. New around $500, plus coils.) Let's see, doing this from memory, what am I forgetting? .

This is a little late, but if you still have the problem, I had a similar problem with my passenger seat. Wife would be sitting in it and suddenly it would decide to fold back. (Kinda funny to be driving along and she started to disappear. She never found it funny though.) Anyway, the problem was the seat switch. (As I have the MKX, it was a 10 way switch.) Simple enough to replace, wrote about how to replace in a different article in this forum.

Look below the instrument cluster. There is a switch with three buttons. They are marked (left to right): "INFO", "SETUP" & "RESET." This control allows you select, change and reset several functions which are shown in the INFO screen at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Press "SETUP". This will allow you to make changes on the following areas; System Check Units (English/Metric) Autolamp Autolock Autounlock Apparently your boyfriend was pushing buttons to see what they did & forgot to set everything back to original.

Mass Airflow Sensor dirty. Bad ignition coil. Faulty ignition coil boot causing short to ground under heavy load. One or more spark plugs fouled. A partially clogged fuel filter.

It's issued to the headlight comtrol module and can be triggered by the the left or right swiveling motor or when the car lost communication with the headlight communication module. Probably triggered by a random network interruption. That it went away means it was probably momentary.

Not certain about this, but isn't it on the sticker on the underside of the hood?

Looking at your results, it seems that your fuel trims are a wee off. (Could be the way your car responds however.) Still, I'm kind of wondering if there isn't a small vacuum leak going on, on the evap purge line. (?)

Glad you found the fix. Personally I wouldn't have used aftermarket, but maybe its good enough. What brand did you go with? Always good to know if aftermarket works (and holds up.)

NHTSA Recall ID Number : 25T001 Synopsis : Pirelli Tire, LLC (Pirelli) is recalling certain P7 Cinturato tires, size 245/45R18 100 Y. The tires were incorrectly marked with the wrong maximum inflation pressure and may not meet the strength requirements for the stated pressure. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 139, "New Pneumatic Radial Tires for Light Vehicles." Tires with insufficient strength may fail, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires, free of charge. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed March 17, 2025. Owners may contact Pirelli customer service at 1-800-622-2390.

Winder if anyone has ever tried adhesive backed velcro (to prevent slipping?)

That part number fit 2007-2014 Ford Edge and aftermarket costs under $300 online. OEM dealer price is $962.91 plus say $50-70 shipping. ( https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__Edge/Drive-Shaft/51620461/DT4Z4R602A.html ) So they are quoting approx $1700 labor. At $100/hr, their saying its going to take them 16-17 hours to replace. Uh, no.

A little late, but just in case you didn't find an answer elsewhere. There is an AWD indicator on the instrument cluster; its icon is a wrench, and indicates that there's a problem with the power train or AWD system. Its a fault indicator, & it only illuminates when there's a problem (such as the AWD has been overworked, is overheated and is off until it cools.)

1. I purchased extended warranties until I reached 125,000 miles. So their not being honest. One of the requirements is the car must be inspected and everything they find must be repaired. (Start with an even slate.) 2. You don't have to buy the warranty at your dealer. ANY dealer can sell you the Ford warranty and ALL Ford dealership will honor. I went to Levittown Ford (online) got my quote, then made an appointment with my dealers financial manager. We went through his sales pitch, I chose the best, he gave me his price, I showed him the quote that I printed out and said "here's a quote from another Lincoln dealer, will you match." He read the printout and instantly said yes. Then I said "what else can you do?" He asked what I meant and I told him I wanted a $0 deductible. He ran some numbers and said he'd give me this if I had all my service done at their dealership. We had a deal. Spark plugs can stick, but a professional mechanic should know how to remove. Friend i used to have was a mechanic and I remember he used to use an impact wrench on stubborn plugs. (Hell, I've seen him get out broken off exhaust manifold studs that were welded to the block.) Mention that if they can service your car, perhaps you should try another Ford dealer. ... That should do it.

What were the transmission codes? (Do you hot rod the car, or tow heavy boat?)

My guess is the spray nozzle at rear could be nearly blocked. When you blew air through rear hoses and fluid came out, air pressure higher than rear washer pump can deliver. I'd try this. Have someone else run the rear washer while you stand back there and see if any drops come out.

Vehicle battery getting weak can cause this. Have the battery's CCAs rating tested (not just a voltage test.)

There may be a couple of other checks that come to mind. Gas cap gasket or cap not clicked on. Wiring to the purge valve. Corrosion in the connector, Micky chewing on wires ..

1. Can you run radio Diagnostics? • Simultaneously press and hold the on/off button and the seek down button until the bezel diagnostics mode is entered. The Speaker Walk-Around Test begins and the display indicates each speaker as it is tested. Once the Speaker Walk-Around Test is complete, the following menus are available: ▪︎APIM Diagnostics ▪︎AHU Diagnostics (refers to the ACM) ▪︎ICP Diagnostics (refers to the radio control panel) ▪︎ECG Diagnostics (refers to the GWM) ▪︎Testing Settings menu ▪︎SiriusXM Diagnostics menu 2. Tried a master reset? • Press and hold the Seek up and the audio unit Power buttons simultaneously until the screen goes black. Wait for the system reset to complete.

Discontinued. Years ago, JC Whitney offered an inexpensive kit intended to add a heated grid to your back window. It consisted of thin wires which were attached to the glass with an adhesive vinyl sheet, wiring and a switch. My 'guess' is the heated strip across the blade resting location, wasn't all that effective. (Deicer works faster, just doesn't work when remote started.) Thought Ford was working on developing a heated washer fluid. (Seen where someone took the washer feed hose, extended it and and wrapped it around the heater return hose. When the fluid flowed, it was warmed by the heater hose.)

As fuses and bulbs good, common areas include headlight switch or body control module. Need to pull codes to narrow down failure.

What year?

Because it only occurs at speed, and is now manifesting at lower speed makes me think that it is directly related to a moving part. First thing that comes to mind is the brakes. Specifically a dust shield is being bent over due to wind flow. Or one of the pads is worn, causing the low pad warning tab to just touch causing a metal-to-metal squeak.

Ever figure this out?