enigma-2

They're rated as one of Ebay's most reputable sellers. I wouldn't be concerned.

If you want to go from a 4" display to an 8" display, and sync 2 to sync 3, you're looking at changing a lot of components. While you could accumulate each part separately and figure out the software changes, it might be more advisable to buy a kit from a company that can provide all the parts and preprogram it for you. Here's one system, https://www.infotainment.com/products/2011-2018-ford-edge-4-to-8-sync-3-touchscreen-upgrade

Figured that you would get a response by now. Here's a kit that allows you to add a backup camera (plus more) to your 2014 edge with 4.3" screen. $400 https://www.emeraldintegrations.com/ford-edge-oem-rear-view-backup-camera-system.html

Starbucks chocolate carmal latte? Yummm.

I read that it has a class B rating on Gasoline and class A for certain oils and class C for other oils. For the class A oils, butter, castor oil, corn oil. For the class C oils, linseed & mineral oils. It seem exceptionally susceptible to cleaning solvents and certain acids. Petroleum oils were not listed as being tested. Class A for road salt. Class B - Resistant no indication that serviceability would be impaired. Variable resistance, depending on conditions of use. Class C - Unresistant, not recommended for service applications under any conditions. I'd say it was s good choice overall.

Do you live near to coast? Salt air can be corrosive.

Sounds like there's a trip to the service department in your future. Probably an easy fix. In the meantime, you always have the front sensors that start beeping at 28".

Being plastic, how does this board hold up to gasoline and oil?

?Looks great. Wonder what a "mechanic" will think when he goes to do an oil change? Hack, hack, hack. There. Now I have access. (Sigh). Really does look good however. What material did you use?

There's one simple test you can try to reset the ABS. Try backing up, say 15 mph and stomp on the brakes. This has to be done only in reverse. Really mash the pedal. You may have to do this 2 or 3 times. But there's a chance the module will reset if you can get the brakes to go into auto pulsate.

The first thing I would suspect is a weak vehicle battery. You need to test the battery's CCA capability. If the battery is getting weak, it loses capacity and voltage in the cold. After the car starts, the voltage comes up due to the alternator and the steering will begin working again.

Hope you specified a Ford Approved windshield as Ford is denying warranty on several areas with aftermarket windshields. As far as radio, there was a guy on F150 forum that had several electrical problems after windshield replacment. Traced to water entry at bottom on glass, corroded electrical connectors in instrument consul.

Probably wouldn't qualify as it's not a safety issue (I'm not aware of any FMVSS standard on parking brakes). Definitely a bad design however. Wonder if you complained directly to Ford, that they would offer some assistance (inasmuch as it's obviously a design failure).

Sounds like a PTU. Check the PTU vent for puke. Think I read in a message here, instead of replacing the PTU (rebuilt units are cheaper than new, but the new Gen 1 replacments are modified to last longer), where someone removed the PTU and driveshaft. Essentially converting the car to FWD.

Only thing that comes to mind is new bulbs pull too much current for existing relay. I'd try substituting a different relay (that's rated to handle the current of the new bulbs), contacting the manufacturer for advice (have they had this happen before) or replacing the original bulbs to see if it fixes the problem.

Would something like this work? https://www.rigidaxle.com/products/1981-2014-ford-8-8-10-bolt-ring-and-pinion-gear-set-w-master-bearing-kit

Another item to consider, mpre so in older cars, but ... have your mechanic look at the hoses. If the hose swells when the brakes are applied, a lot of the force is being disappapated in the hose. On my car, had a similar issue. Finally took my car in and ordered new brakes, all around. 130k and back brakes still only 1/2 pads???? Pads, rotors, new fluid, master cylinder check, check hoses, abs for air and power brake vacuum unit. Rock solid brakes now. Turned out it was the back brakes seized on the pins. (Think that's what he found, there was several minor things found, but definitely back brakes was problem).

Sounds like a relay isn't getting the signal to drop out. Perhaps if you could post a schematic of what wiring you changed. We're assuming that everything worked properly before the modification.

"Pushnut" comes to mind. Should be able to find these (or something close) at Advanced Auto in their fastener display isle.

Have you tried a manual open/close to test for binding? Havevyou tried lubing the hinges?

That's not good sign. You losing cooant?

14.2 volts when running shows the charging system is working. Test battety voltage when the car is off (tests just the batterys voltage). Should be getting 12.2 to 12.6 volts. If it's less, assume the battery is not taking a charge. Could be a bad new battery. New batteries need a full charge to srart off. Freezing weather and a short drive home may not be sufficient to get an adequate charge. In really cold weather, batteries not charged will freeze and short the plates together. And it's been really cold in certain parts of the US last week.

I was looking at the FordPass app. Did you see the info it collects and distributes? INFORMATION THAT'S SHARED: Precise location. Email address User ID User interactions Device ID "Other" stuff DATA THAT'S COLLECTED: Full name Email address User ID Address Phone number Sexual orientation ??????? And "other" stuff ????????? Health and fitness information Copies of your photos Files and docs, and Interactions of user with app. I *think* we've discovered who Big Brother really is!

Must be something you hate about your car. That IS the object of this post after all. (Can't get off that easily). lol