enigma-2

Well I ran through a few YouTube vids and I'm not so certain that this is really a good way to go. This is the video that made me rethink using Deet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYmbBZntuY8 Reviewed Consumer Reports test on four products: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/headlight-restoration-kits/buying-guide.htm (I have the Sylvania kit, still not ready to commit to sanding plastic headlights yet). So back to asking about the ALR product. Anyone actually use this stuff? (The cleaner and sealer seems to work). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XPoZARi0T0

So I'm reading this, jaw hanging on the keyboard, looking for all the world like a deer in the headlights ..... mosquito spray??? Fellows, that blows me away. No, hadn't run across this on YouTube. Who on earth figured this out? Thanks so much, what a great forum this is. Dennis

My wife's Sebring Convertable headlights are starting to become cloudy. I bought a headlight cleaning kit from a local auto store, and it uses sandpaper to sand off the top layer of the lens. Thoughtt that that was a little radical and watched a few YouTube vids on it. Also did some other research and learned that once you do this, it removes the UV layer from the lens and the lens will start to yellow from UV rays. Kept researching and found a product that removes the cloudy layer (oxidation) with a chemical solution. The product is Pittman ALR. Anyone ever use this? Here's their website: http://www.ibc34.com/ Sounds perfect, but it's a little salty at $30 for 7 cc's. (But, you only use one drop per headlight, or so they say). If it works I'll go this route and sell the kit at a garage sale.

Possibly the lubrication dried out. (My 09 is starting to squeak when I open it, probably will have the dealer lube it at next oil change). There's a couple of videos here in the forum that may help. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14977-moonroof-sunshade-stopped-working/

I've been curious as to what my "fog" lights, on my MKX are really good for. Is white the best color, amber, blue? When is the best time to use them, day driving, night, rail, snow, fog ...? Are those kinky blue headlights really better? I found a website that answers all these questions and more with good logic and backed with evidence as to what is good, bad and ugly. Here's a sampling: Various companies and individuals are selling halogen headlamp bulbs with blue or purplish-blue glass. There are lots of spurious claims made for these bulbs. They're falsely advertised as "Xenon bulbs" or "HID bulbs", the blue glass is claimed to "force the bulb to perform at a higher level", and there are seemingly endless amounts of pseudoscience aimed at enticing buyers who want better performance from their headlamps. In fact, these bulbs reduce headlamp performance while increasing dangerous glare. ............. White light is made up of every color of light mixed together. But the colors are not all present in equal amounts. The output spectrum of filament bulbs, including halogen headlamp bulbs, includes a great deal of red, orange, yellow and green light, but very little blue or violet light. Blue bulbs have colored glass (or a filter coating applied to clear glass) that allows only the blue light through the filter — this is why the bulbs appear blue. Because very little blue light is produced by a halogen bulb in the first place, it is only this very small amount — a tiny fraction of the total amount of light produced by a halogen bulb filament — that ever reaches the road. ............. Compared to uncolored bulbs, Blue headlight bulbs are able to produce more glare with less light because of the difference between the "signal image", which is what an observer sees when looking at an illuminated headlamp, and the "beam pattern", which is the light viewed from behind the headlamp facing forward, as by the driver of a vehicle. ..........and much, much more. And he also discusses what makes a "good" blue headlight. How about converting your halogen's to HID? Read on... So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb, for between $150 and $600. STOP, put away that credit card. Trying to "convert" halogen headlamps to HID is an unsafe thing to do. There are NO legitimate or safe HID bulb retrofits for halogen headlamps. Here's why. He also has an excellent discussion on "fog" lights, when to use fog lights, when not to, where they should be aimed, what color works best, whether white is better or blue or amber, how to make it work to your advantage, etc. How the eye sees green/yellow better that other colors, how to color a bulb or lens to achieve a specific degree of yellow, (what paint to use), etc. There's history, tests and logic and myths debunked on everything automotive lighting. I hope you enjoy reading about the ins and outs of automotive lighting, as much as I did. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/lights.html

I decided to not install it after readig the posts on it. As must as I hate to, I'll probably bite the bullet and pay the dealer to do it.

Would seem you intend to put a fair amount of $$$ in your 08. Have you considered selling your 08 in a private sale (should get $8-10k) and buying a later model with all the bells and whistles already on it? For example, a nice 2010 Ford Edge SEL with 3.5L V6, automatic transmission, AWD (All wheel drive), power windows and locks, key less entry, power mirrors, cruise control, tilt steering, stereo AM/FM CD, rear defrost, power heated seats, alloy wheels, ABS, air conditioning, panoramic roof & leather interior is on buy-it-now for <$12K on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Edge-SEL-AWD-PANORAMIC-ROOF-LEATHER-2010-ford-edge-sel-awd-panoramic-roof-very-nice-vehicle-/281533306573?forcerrptr=true&hash=item418cb156cd&item=281533306573&pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_1856wt_1145 This particular one is in Canada, just grabbed it as an example. But might be a better choice than trying to piece an 08 up to 10 standards. (After all, you would still have an 08, just with more aftermarket on it. And a later year would get you to a later version of Sync, etc.) Just thinking outloud...

What did you find for a glovebox light? (Thinking of doing the same on my 09).

Did you just mount and run the wire to the head unit, and simply plug it in, or did you need to have the dealer program it to turn on? (Also, where did you plug it in at?

Anyone have an opinion on the Sirius LEDs? 6400 total output. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QWVGT7O?psc=1

Haven't checked yet, but my OM lists the light as having 3- 1600XB's as the bulb type. Have to get my lasy *** out and check one of these days. Replaced the two front OH consul with the LED bulbs last night, wow. White and bright. Amazing difference. Weird problems assoc with them though. After I got them installed, one bulb refused to turn off, the other would not turn off. After a messing with them for a few, I finally figured out what was wrong. For the first one, I had mistakenly turned the light control on the instrument panel to "on" position (keeping the bulb on) and in the case of the other, I had put the LED in backwards (polorized).

I went through the filter world and replaced mine in November. Ended up getting OEM (but at the aftermarket price <$10). Personally, I've never noticed any difference between the plain and carbon filter; smoke & odors from the outside still get through the same. (Burning leaves is the most objectionable, cigarette smoke comes in at a close 2nd). Anyone feel that spending the extra $$ for carbon or baking soda filters is actually worth it?

I had that happen to me on my last car (Mercury). Easy fix was to spray WD40 into the door latch mech. Lubed and cut through the old grease and would hold for 2-3 years before I had to do it again. After you spray, open and close the door a couple of times, should free up and turn the light off. Try it before spending any $$$ as it does work!

I think you're right, the Silverstar does not fit your 14 Edge. I plugged in your car on Amazon and got these results: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=au_pf_dp_lf_ladp_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&i=automotive&node=15730151&vehicle=2014-54-5858------------3 Dennis

Dominatron: you consider trying Sylvania's SilverStar Ultra Halogens? They market them as being "whitest and brightest headlight currently available". I had SilverStar's in my last car and really liked them. Were four years old when I traded, but I didn't do a lot of night driving.

Finally drove me nuts. Drove over to the dealer, fella at the desk had me pull my MKX inside, fiddled with it for a few minutes, inside and out, went through usual experimentation process and then .. bingo, windows went down and roof popped open into vent position. There "is" a special trick to it. You can program whether the roof opens or not through the IKT. Darn guy, he figured it out (undocumented procedure) and then jokingly refused to show me how. We got on to another topic and I forgot to go back and have him show me how he did it. Seems to me he clicked it to unlock the door(s), then held it for two seconds to open the windows and then he pressed it again (didn't see if he held it or clicked it a couple of times), but the roof popped open after the windows were down. 1st the door unlocked, then the windows rolled down, and then the roof pops open. Now the windows and roof open together. It appears that we can program whether we want the roof to open or not, simply by programming it through the IKT. (BTW, the IKT cannot open the windows and roof if you are sitting inside the car. That took us five minutes of experimenting to figure that one out). Unrelated, I also had him print out a "as built" listing on my car and it wasn't equipped with DRL. Don't feel it's worth putting money into it for that so I'm sol.

You can pick one up here for $23.27. http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/NarrowDownPart.aspx?partNumber=3F1Z-13B375-AA&vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2007&SubModel=&VehicleID=100&CategoryId=2&CatalogueId=482&CatalogueComponentID=16853158&ComponentCode=TQ1&Attributes=&BuildDate=&Skipped=

When using the integrated keyhead transmitter to unlock the doors on my 09 MKX, only the two front windows roll down; the panoramic roof does not open with them. Is there a trick to getting the roof to open along with the windows? (Car locked, key in off pos & accessory delay not engaged). Thought all three were supposed to open together after the door(s) unlock?

Hey thanks Omar302, right after I read your message went to Amazon and order two bulbs. Haven't checked yet, but I believe that my rear overhead and cargo light are both W5W (T10) bulbs as well. May replace them as well if I like these. Thanks again Dennis

Hi Rapi99, don't know if it would help, I have the diagragms for a 2009 MKX. Don't know how close they are to the 2008. If you feel that they would help, I can save them as screen captures and send as jpegs. There's 23 pages in the audio/navigation section - around 150kb/page (in color reason so big). If interested, echo email address.

I suppose that makes sense. My 2009 does have the "dealer-only" option and the website did 'not' provide a download link. I was able to get it off the web from "another" source". When I called the website link, they told me that there was no real advantage in having it installed (no new feature were being added) and that it was doubtful it was worth the money. I still have the jump drive and the downloaded file which I haven't loaded yet, too busy with taravel. Going to run it to the dealer next week to have the DRL turned on, maybe I ask them again. Hundred and fifty is outrageous IMO, see if their willing to negotiate on the price.

Thanks, checked them first; they don't have anything available for my vehicle.

Was looking on web for replacement map light bulbs (replace with LED) to improve brightness at night. Thought it was strange that no one listed a LED replacement so I looked up the bulb in the owners manual and it was listed as a 1600XB. (Never heard of it). Googled and couldn't find any reference to this bulb anywhere on the Internet. Checked the Ford Parts website and it's listed as part number 03466, and retails for {wait for it} ..... $21.55. Each! A simple little 12 volt, low cp bulb, twenty bucks. Now neither one is burnt out so not really concerned, but, what did Ford do, design a weird bulb that no one else has and demand twenty bucks for a replacement? Anyone else ever notice this?

I'm guessing, but It's possible that some are in folders and other are not. The HU reads one folder deep, IE <folder> (thinks it's an album title) <sub-folder> (thinks it's a song title) <sub-sub-folder> (can not be read) Other than that, it could be in metamedia (is that the right word, the extra stuff, album title, song size, duration, singer, etc.) stored with the song.

I have a three month free demo on my 2009 MKX (just called and asked for it) and must admit it sounds great. Crystal clear on most channels, (sometimes it seems a little less that perfect on some of the comedy channels and CNN, HLN, etc.), seems like it has good highs and lows, but it does drop out at one point in the garage when I'm pulling in (but comes back as I continue to pull forward). I also signed up for one year for Travel Link (wanted the weather, local gas prices, but not so much for the movie listings and sports scores). Only $2 a month. (For $3 more you can get local traffic congestion, but it only works in a few major cities). As for your problem, my guess is, there's a problem with your system. It should be crystal clear. You could try a on-board diagnostic and see what the results are. Here's what the service manual has for the 2009 Edge/MKX: ---------------------------------------------- Satellite Audio Bezel Diagnostic Test — Vehicles Without Navigation Turn the ACM on. Operate the audio system in satellite radio mode. Press and hold preset buttons SIRIUS and 2 for 3 seconds. Upon entering the self-test, the audio system produces 2 continuously alternating tones of different pitch, one for the right channel, then one for the left. The test continues by displaying any DTCs currently present. If no DTCs are present, NO DTCS is displayed. If there are DTCs present, the ACM auto-scrolls through the list of active DTCs. Historical DTCs can be viewed by pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in the active DTC mode. If any DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) prompts CLEAR DTCS? on the ACM . To clear historical DTCs, press preset buttons 1, 2, and 3 consecutively within 4 seconds. To exit historical DTCs (with or without clearing DTCs), press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously. If no historical DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in active DTC mode displays the DLP software version. To exit the satellite audio bezel diagnostic test, press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while the DLP software version is displayed, or turn the ACM off. ---------------------------------------------- Audio Systems With Navigation Turn the ACM on. Operate the audio system in radio tuner (AM/FM) mode. Press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk test begins. The display indicates each speaker as it is tested. NOTE: If the speaker walk test is the only test required, this procedure can be stopped after this step, or by allowing the speaker walk test to complete on its own. Before the speaker walk test is complete, press the "End Test" selection. The following tests are available through the "BEZEL DIAGNOSTICS" menu: On Demand Self Test: The ACM carries out a self-test. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates "Test Passed" or lists any DTCs present. Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present. If DTCs are suspected, retrieve continuous and on-demand DTCs using the scan tool. View DTCs: The ACM displays any DTCs that are present. If there is more than a full screen of DTCs present, to scroll through the DTCs, press the down arrow on the display. If no DTCs are present, the display reads NO DTCS. Press the "Clear DTCs" selection to clear any DTCs present. Configuration Status: The display shows the ACM configuration. A "0" indicates the item is configured off, while a "1" indicates the item is configured on. If the ACM appears to be mis-configured, refer to Section 418-01 . System Info: The ACM displays system information for various components of the audio system. The following items are most important for servicing the audio system: Nav Radio Part Number — provides the ACM part number. ESN1 — provides the satellite radio Electronic Serial Number (ESN) GPS Info: The current Global Positioning System (GPS) satellite information is shown, along with the current vehicle position. Pressing the "SV Status" selection provides additional information, if present. Speaker Walk Test: The ACM carries out the speaker walk test. DVD Mechanism Test: The ACM tests the internal CD/DVD drive mechanism. Display Test: This test provides for testing of the touchscreen colors and the touchscreen sectors. Pressing any of the colors on the display causes the whole display to change to that color; pressing the display again returns to the Display Test menu. Pressing the "Touchscreen Activation Test" selection enters the touchscreen sector test. Press any area of the screen to test the touchscreen sector; press the "X" at the RH lower corner of the display to return to the Display Test menu. Hardkey Test: This test provides for testing of the ACM buttons (not the touchscreen). When each button is pressed, the screen displays the button that is active. This test can also be used to isolate a stuck button. Radio Signal Strength: The ACM displays the AM/FM antenna signal strength. To run this test, the audio system should be in AM radio tuner mode before entering the ACM self-diagnostic mode. HDD Test: The ACM tests its internal hard drive. Sensor I/O Status: The ACM displays inputs it is receiving from external sources. These inputs include: Ignition — indicates ON (ignition in ACC or RUN) or OFF. Brake — indicates ON (brake applied) or OFF (brake not applied). Illumination — indicates ON or OFF. ReverseGear — indicates ON (vehicle in reverse) or OFF (vehicle not in reverse) Microphone Test: The ACM tests the microphone by supplying a test tone and monitoring the input from the microphone. As this vehicle is not equipped with a microphone, this test does not provide any diagnostic assistance. SDARS Signal Strength: The ACM displays the satellite radio antenna signal strength. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, press the "Exit Diagnostics" selection from the "BEZEL DIAGNOSTICS" menu. ---------------------------------------------- It's probably the last test, SDARS, might reveal how the satellite radio antenna is working. If you get a code, reply here & I'll look it up (too many to list them all). Good luck.