enigma-2

I suppose that makes sense. My 2009 does have the "dealer-only" option and the website did 'not' provide a download link. I was able to get it off the web from "another" source". When I called the website link, they told me that there was no real advantage in having it installed (no new feature were being added) and that it was doubtful it was worth the money. I still have the jump drive and the downloaded file which I haven't loaded yet, too busy with taravel. Going to run it to the dealer next week to have the DRL turned on, maybe I ask them again. Hundred and fifty is outrageous IMO, see if their willing to negotiate on the price.

Thanks, checked them first; they don't have anything available for my vehicle.

Was looking on web for replacement map light bulbs (replace with LED) to improve brightness at night. Thought it was strange that no one listed a LED replacement so I looked up the bulb in the owners manual and it was listed as a 1600XB. (Never heard of it). Googled and couldn't find any reference to this bulb anywhere on the Internet. Checked the Ford Parts website and it's listed as part number 03466, and retails for {wait for it} ..... $21.55. Each! A simple little 12 volt, low cp bulb, twenty bucks. Now neither one is burnt out so not really concerned, but, what did Ford do, design a weird bulb that no one else has and demand twenty bucks for a replacement? Anyone else ever notice this?

I'm guessing, but It's possible that some are in folders and other are not. The HU reads one folder deep, IE <folder> (thinks it's an album title) <sub-folder> (thinks it's a song title) <sub-sub-folder> (can not be read) Other than that, it could be in metamedia (is that the right word, the extra stuff, album title, song size, duration, singer, etc.) stored with the song.

I have a three month free demo on my 2009 MKX (just called and asked for it) and must admit it sounds great. Crystal clear on most channels, (sometimes it seems a little less that perfect on some of the comedy channels and CNN, HLN, etc.), seems like it has good highs and lows, but it does drop out at one point in the garage when I'm pulling in (but comes back as I continue to pull forward). I also signed up for one year for Travel Link (wanted the weather, local gas prices, but not so much for the movie listings and sports scores). Only $2 a month. (For $3 more you can get local traffic congestion, but it only works in a few major cities). As for your problem, my guess is, there's a problem with your system. It should be crystal clear. You could try a on-board diagnostic and see what the results are. Here's what the service manual has for the 2009 Edge/MKX: ---------------------------------------------- Satellite Audio Bezel Diagnostic Test — Vehicles Without Navigation Turn the ACM on. Operate the audio system in satellite radio mode. Press and hold preset buttons SIRIUS and 2 for 3 seconds. Upon entering the self-test, the audio system produces 2 continuously alternating tones of different pitch, one for the right channel, then one for the left. The test continues by displaying any DTCs currently present. If no DTCs are present, NO DTCS is displayed. If there are DTCs present, the ACM auto-scrolls through the list of active DTCs. Historical DTCs can be viewed by pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in the active DTC mode. If any DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) prompts CLEAR DTCS? on the ACM . To clear historical DTCs, press preset buttons 1, 2, and 3 consecutively within 4 seconds. To exit historical DTCs (with or without clearing DTCs), press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously. If no historical DTCs are present, pressing the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while in active DTC mode displays the DLP software version. To exit the satellite audio bezel diagnostic test, press the SIRIUS button and preset button 2 (except navigation) or the SOUND button and preset button 1 (navigation) simultaneously while the DLP software version is displayed, or turn the ACM off. ---------------------------------------------- Audio Systems With Navigation Turn the ACM on. Operate the audio system in radio tuner (AM/FM) mode. Press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk test begins. The display indicates each speaker as it is tested. NOTE: If the speaker walk test is the only test required, this procedure can be stopped after this step, or by allowing the speaker walk test to complete on its own. Before the speaker walk test is complete, press the "End Test" selection. The following tests are available through the "BEZEL DIAGNOSTICS" menu: On Demand Self Test: The ACM carries out a self-test. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates "Test Passed" or lists any DTCs present. Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present. If DTCs are suspected, retrieve continuous and on-demand DTCs using the scan tool. View DTCs: The ACM displays any DTCs that are present. If there is more than a full screen of DTCs present, to scroll through the DTCs, press the down arrow on the display. If no DTCs are present, the display reads NO DTCS. Press the "Clear DTCs" selection to clear any DTCs present. Configuration Status: The display shows the ACM configuration. A "0" indicates the item is configured off, while a "1" indicates the item is configured on. If the ACM appears to be mis-configured, refer to Section 418-01 . System Info: The ACM displays system information for various components of the audio system. The following items are most important for servicing the audio system: Nav Radio Part Number — provides the ACM part number. ESN1 — provides the satellite radio Electronic Serial Number (ESN) GPS Info: The current Global Positioning System (GPS) satellite information is shown, along with the current vehicle position. Pressing the "SV Status" selection provides additional information, if present. Speaker Walk Test: The ACM carries out the speaker walk test. DVD Mechanism Test: The ACM tests the internal CD/DVD drive mechanism. Display Test: This test provides for testing of the touchscreen colors and the touchscreen sectors. Pressing any of the colors on the display causes the whole display to change to that color; pressing the display again returns to the Display Test menu. Pressing the "Touchscreen Activation Test" selection enters the touchscreen sector test. Press any area of the screen to test the touchscreen sector; press the "X" at the RH lower corner of the display to return to the Display Test menu. Hardkey Test: This test provides for testing of the ACM buttons (not the touchscreen). When each button is pressed, the screen displays the button that is active. This test can also be used to isolate a stuck button. Radio Signal Strength: The ACM displays the AM/FM antenna signal strength. To run this test, the audio system should be in AM radio tuner mode before entering the ACM self-diagnostic mode. HDD Test: The ACM tests its internal hard drive. Sensor I/O Status: The ACM displays inputs it is receiving from external sources. These inputs include: Ignition — indicates ON (ignition in ACC or RUN) or OFF. Brake — indicates ON (brake applied) or OFF (brake not applied). Illumination — indicates ON or OFF. ReverseGear — indicates ON (vehicle in reverse) or OFF (vehicle not in reverse) Microphone Test: The ACM tests the microphone by supplying a test tone and monitoring the input from the microphone. As this vehicle is not equipped with a microphone, this test does not provide any diagnostic assistance. SDARS Signal Strength: The ACM displays the satellite radio antenna signal strength. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, press the "Exit Diagnostics" selection from the "BEZEL DIAGNOSTICS" menu. ---------------------------------------------- It's probably the last test, SDARS, might reveal how the satellite radio antenna is working. If you get a code, reply here & I'll look it up (too many to list them all). Good luck.

Perhaps. I talked with someone at syncmyride.com and was led to believe that it was no big deal. (The update only takes 20 minutes, but the dealer needed an hour to an hour and one half to install (quote) from start to finish). Anyway, here's what's in 2.1.4: - Bluetooth auto-connection improvement. - Media player reliability. - Voice Recognition improvements to recognize names entered with all CAPS. - Voice Recognition enhancements that will decrease the chance of calling the wrong person. - Add customer assistance phone number to Help prompts. The update runs itself, just plug it in. Only way it will (should) create a brick is if you were to stop it mid cycle. (I would imagine that's true of any update however).

I have a 2009 MKX and was able to download a copy of 2.1.4 off the web for my car. After downloading you copy it to a 2 gig jump drive and plug it into the USB port on your Edge. Runs from there. Requiring a dealer to do it is simply a sales gimmick from Ford to allow a local dealer to pocket an extra $100 for essentially doing nothing. (I was actually quoted $150 from my local dealer. When pressed, most of the cost was for a mechanic to stand around waiting for the program to install). ...right... Try Google, copies are available for download, but I caution to run your virus checker on the d/l file just to make certain that a knucklehead hasn't sweetened the file on you.

I could be wrong, but I believe HID uses full voltage, just varies the pulse width.

Checked door pillar. It's UG = White Platinum Tri-coat. You had a white chocolate tri-coat listed, but not mine.

Completely agree, probably a generic manual for all Ford products. But it was for 2009 so they must have offered a camera as an option back then. I looked in the copy of the 2009 MKX literature and there was no mention of a camera option. But the head unit in the Ebay listing is identical to my HU. And I believe your right, the yellow plug is for a camera. My guess is they used the same head unit for a different vehicle which did have a camera option (perhaps the Navigator)? In any case, I'm now convinced more than ever that the HU will accept a camera input and all we would need to do is plug in a $20-$30 camera to make it work. Price includes the 19 ft video harness & power harness. Thanks for the Ebay find, exactly the conformation I was looking for.

I was getting this from my 2009 Navigation System, Sync Manual, page 24. ------------------------------------------------ REVERSE CAMERA (IF EQUIPPED) Your vehicle may be equipped with a reverse camera on the tailgate which provides a video image of the area behind the vehicle. When the transmission is in Reverse ®, an image will automatically display on the navigation screen. Once the vehicle is back in Drive (D), the image will continue to display until you are driving over 5 mph (8 km/h). To remove this image from the screen, press any hard button on the navigation system. ------------------------------------------------------------ I assumed from this that it had originally been offered as an option on 2009 models. I had seen the Lockpick before and wrote to them. Response was, the camera works on a 2009 MKX, but not the Lockpick stuff (watch DVD's while driving, etc.). 2009 was only gen 1, and the head unit's software is incompatible. I still want to find out if the 2009 HU has a video port. Anyone with a 09 head unit with hard drive based (has jukebox) Sync Navigation System ever look on the back to see if there's a camera port?

My sensors are flush-mounted into the rear bumper. Where exactly did you mount your surface-mount camera, and what vehicle do you have? I've been thinking about a bracket-mount just above my license plate, (between the license plate lights) simular to the '15 Edge I was looknig at yesterday (only mine would be lower down as the license plate is in the bumper on an 09 MKX. That would put it just above the trailer hitch. I'm concerned that the camera would get covered with dirt and water being so low down).

I was looking at one similar, Amazon, $20. One question I haven't resolved yet is, does the camera connection just plug into the OEM head unit? I have navigation and sync (1st gen). Haven't pulled the HU yet to see if there's a "vid in" jack, but was reading that it was an option on the 09 MKX. This is the camera I was thinking about: http://www.amazon.com/Esky-EC170-06-Waterproof-Backup-0-86X0-65X0-50-inch/dp/B00GSFIJS6/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I agree with your thinking about it being the SecurilLock System. Starter thinks the doors are not locked and having a hissy fit over it. Got to thinking, my 09 MKX has the following procedure used to program the remotes, could try this to see if it works: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Please read and understand the entire procedure before you begin. 1. Insert the first previously programmed coded key into the ignition. 2. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition to the 1 (off) position and remove the first coded key from the ignition. 4. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition to the 1 (off) position, insert the second previously coded key into the ignition. 5. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 6. Turn the ignition to the 1 (off) position and remove the second previously programmed coded key from the ignition. 7. Within 20 seconds of turning the ignition to the 1 (off) position and removing the previously programmed coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key (new key/valet key) into the ignition. 8. Turn the ignition from the 1 (off) position to the 3 (on) position. Keep the ignition in the 3 (on) position for at least six seconds. 9. Remove the newly programmed coded key from the ignition. If the key has been successfully programmed it will start the vehicle’s engine and will operate the remote entry system (if the new key is an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter). The theft indicator light will illuminate for three seconds and then go out to indicate successful programming. If the key was not successfully programmed, it will not start your vehicle’s engine and/or will not operate the remote entry features. The theft indicator light may flash on and off. Wait 20 seconds and you may repeat Steps 1 through 8. If failure repeats, bring your vehicle to your authorized dealer to have the new key(s) programmed. To program additional new unprogrammed key(s), wait 20 seconds and then repeat this procedure from Step 1.

Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow.

Installed the mirror harness (from Amazon). Need to be cautious, it was wired backward, the black wire was positive (center contact) and the red was was negative (exterior shell). The mirror has several wires going into it, the black is ground (upper extreme right side - relatively speaking) and the positive when ignition on is the blue (lower extreme left - relatively speaking). Other than that is works perfectly, nice to get rid of the stretched-to-the-max coiled cord.

White Platinum Tri-Coat. Medium Light Stone interior.

See if this helps: http://www.f150forum.com/f2/remote-start-valet-mode-help-52617/ Might take a look here as well: http://www.ehow.com/how_5159008_troubleshoot-ford-remote-starter.html Also remember reading where this happened to someone else. He had to reprogram his remotes. Believe he turned the ignition switch to on, then off, eight times, locks cycled and he hit button on his his entry remote, then turned off the key. Remote start worked afterward. Had something to do with the car not thinking it was locked or something like that. (Refused to start thinking it was vulnerable). Procedure for your car should be in you owners manual.

One quirk I have with my new 09 MKX is the auto dimming mirror. It gets dimmer with rear headlights OK, but it never really goes back to being completely bright during the day (unless I put the car in reverse). I can get it to go completely "bright" (100% non-dimmed) by manually compensating (and it goes completely clear), but afterwords slowly fades to about 30-40% dimmed position. (Also turning on either map light causes it to dim). Is this normal; does everyone else's operate this way, or is mine defective?

Hate to keep beating this dead horse, but thought y'all like an update. OK, following the owners manual and erase all old user codes. Verified that both those I entered are erased. Checked the code inside the fuse box: worked. Checked the code the dealer read when he used the computer: worked. I'm able to program the user codes using BOTH codes!!!!! Both act as factory programed codes. It certainly appears that there are two factory codes (at least on my car). Any other ideas? This is unnerving to say the least.

Five! Based on Akirby's reply, and yours, that kind of makes me a little nervous. Thanks for the information, I'll need to figure out how to erase the old codes. I wonder why it stores four user codes? It would seem to reason that two is sufficient. Allowing the previous owner to retain access to my car is unnerving.

Oh yes, so that's it. Thanks, that's good to know. How would I go about erasing the old codes?

That's what I thought at first, as well. But I do have four separate, distinct entry codes that will open the door. 1. The factory programmed code (printed inside the fuse box): 67*** 2. The code the dealer read from my computer: 49*** 3. My first programmed code (stored at 1/2): 03*** 4. My second programmed code (stored at 3/4): 07*** What I find curious is, why didn't the dealer find the factory number, when he read my car with the laptop? The one that starts with 67? Instead he found the second number. But I do have four numbers that work, just when out to the car and tried them all. Seems to me that if it had been the previous owner's number, I would have erased it when I programmed my new number. They do overwrite, don't they? Or do they accumulate (which could be dangerous). As the dealer read the second number from my computer, I assumed that there are at least two factory codes programmed (at least in my 09 MKX). Could there be some sort of universal code set , like a backdoor, for all Lincoln's or all Ford's, for example?

1) Passenger door handle: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=U0Uulmry6tQQ2AwMtWPGPA%3d%3d&id=295370693&m=2&search=true&year=2009&make=Lincoln&model=MKX 2) The radio knob, try a local junk yard off a dead radio, (there are several on the internet that you could email or check out the listings on Ebay and find a dealer that selling used radios. They may be able to supply you a couple of knobs from a dead radio); or substitute both knobs from one here: http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&node=15684181&keywords=replacement+radio+knob&tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=4960775699&ref=pd_sl_5uk9au1c1k_b 3) Rust: have it fixed on the cheap, or there is a special primer that converts rust to prime (and stops future rusting). When dry, follow with some dupli-Color. (If it's white suede metallic, you will need to use a two-part system to match). http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=rust+primer&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Arust+primer 4) Moulding is held on by adhesive. I would drop by your local dealer's body shop and ask what they would do. 5) Rechromming would be very expensive and difficult. You could try: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_8_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=chrome+paint&sprefix=chrome%2Cautomotive%2C303&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Achrome+paint 6) Same as above 7) Glue it back on with rubber cement. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=rubber+cement&sprefix=chrome%2Cautomotive%2C303&rh=n%3A15684181%2Ck%3Arubber+cement Good luck.

I had the same problem with my old 4-door Mercury Sable. Fixed it by spraying WD-40 into each of the door latch mech. (Turned out it was the rear passenger that was hanging up. Old greese probably. Happened twice while I owned it, so I started spraying WD-40 into the locks once every year.