enigma-2

Standard OEM factory halogen bulbs. (Silver-star actually). I would guess that aftermarket HID can NOT be switched in this manor as it may cause problems with the ballast or electronics. Best to check with the Mgr of your equipment. (Was it designed for this or was it never considered)? However I'm fairly certain that OEM HID can be turned on as it a standard feature of all modern Ford and Lincoln autos. LED's are a big question mark IMO. The lighting circuit uses a FET in the smart J-box to do the switching and the micro computes the actual frequency. It's possible that the LED's may not draw sufficient current draw for the circuitry to recognize, or, more realistically, may cause the LED's to flicker (standard incandescent filament bulbs don't really go on and off, the filament continues to glow even when current is off, not so with LEDs, they will switch completely on and off when the current switches on and off. No persistence). If so, I doubt the flickering would pass state DOT or federal FMVSS requirements & possibly draw the attention of a cop for having an illegal setup.

Thought I would pass on something I learned today. May help someone else. Was at my local dealer today, had been told in the past that I did not have the proper equipment for DRL. Called other dealers and was given the same spiel. (09 Lincoln MKX). Anyway, while checking in for a door lock problem (turned out it was frozen), I asked to also have my DRL turned on. They told me they could not do that and I handed them copies of pages from the Ford service manual showing the procedure. They looked surprised and said OK. $45 later and now I have DRL's. According to the manual, DRL's are controlled through the smart junction box (also known as the Generic Electronic Module). Procedure is for the dealer to connect his Vehicle Communication Module with the correct Integrated Diagnostic System (software) and simply set a flag to on, under the DRL section. When the DRL is active, the smart junction box provides a "Pulse Width Modulated" voltage to the low beam headlamps. This illuminates the headlamps at a reduced intensity. (Basically it turns the low beams on and off rapidly, with a 50% duty cycle. This results in a dimmer output, (but the light looks continuous). Conditions: Ignition switch in run position, car NOT in park, headlight switch in auto, on, parking lamps position. (Be aware that when running on DRL's, the tail lamps are NOT turned on). Service manual I have, is for 09,10 Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX; but probably a standard function on ALL edge's and MKX's. Hope this will help others who may also want DRL's on their car, Dennis

From the service manual; The parking aid system is enabled when the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the REVERSE ® gear is selected. The parking aid system is disabled if a fault is detected in 1 of the 4 sensors, the parking aid speaker, or the Parking Aid Module (PAM) . This is indicated by the parking aid disabled warning in the message center. The PAM is on the MS-CAN and can be diagnosed with a scan tool.

Here's what I have in my 09 mkx service manual: Power Liftgate Initialization NOTE: The power liftgate may not operate correctly under the following conditions: A low voltage or dead battery A disconnected battery Repairs/adjustments have been made to the power liftgate rod, power liftgate motor, liftgate hinges or liftgate striker If any of these conditions has occurred, the power liftgate must be reinitialized. NOTE: Battery power must be removed from the Liftgate/Trunk Module (LTM) for 20 seconds before the LTM will enter the initialization mode. Disconnect the battery or remove the LTM fuse(s). Wait 20 seconds and reconnect the battery or reinstall the LTM fuse(s). If liftgate is not already in the fully closed position, manually close and fully latch the power liftgate. NOTE: Make sure the power liftgate system is turned ON in the message center before performing this step. NOTE: If the power liftgate does not open during this step, refer to the Symptom Chart to diagnose the inoperative power liftgate. Power open the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch. Once the power liftgate is fully open, close the power liftgate by using the key fob or control switch.

Flood. Ummm, did you check to see if they affect oncoming drivers?

I have a perpetual problem with my MKX cargo net. I admit this is minor, but it a real source of irritation. It seems to unhook itself from the lower right and left sides whenever you put in or remove groceries. When I put groceries (or anything else of bulk) into the net to keep them from spilling all over the cargo floor, the net changes its shape, getting lower to the floor and allowing the slip hooks to slide off the retainers. Has anyone come up with a simple fix for this?

Well I ran through a few YouTube vids and I'm not so certain that this is really a good way to go. This is the video that made me rethink using Deet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYmbBZntuY8 Reviewed Consumer Reports test on four products: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/headlight-restoration-kits/buying-guide.htm (I have the Sylvania kit, still not ready to commit to sanding plastic headlights yet). So back to asking about the ALR product. Anyone actually use this stuff? (The cleaner and sealer seems to work). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XPoZARi0T0

So I'm reading this, jaw hanging on the keyboard, looking for all the world like a deer in the headlights ..... mosquito spray??? Fellows, that blows me away. No, hadn't run across this on YouTube. Who on earth figured this out? Thanks so much, what a great forum this is. Dennis

My wife's Sebring Convertable headlights are starting to become cloudy. I bought a headlight cleaning kit from a local auto store, and it uses sandpaper to sand off the top layer of the lens. Thoughtt that that was a little radical and watched a few YouTube vids on it. Also did some other research and learned that once you do this, it removes the UV layer from the lens and the lens will start to yellow from UV rays. Kept researching and found a product that removes the cloudy layer (oxidation) with a chemical solution. The product is Pittman ALR. Anyone ever use this? Here's their website: http://www.ibc34.com/ Sounds perfect, but it's a little salty at $30 for 7 cc's. (But, you only use one drop per headlight, or so they say). If it works I'll go this route and sell the kit at a garage sale.

Possibly the lubrication dried out. (My 09 is starting to squeak when I open it, probably will have the dealer lube it at next oil change). There's a couple of videos here in the forum that may help. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14977-moonroof-sunshade-stopped-working/

I've been curious as to what my "fog" lights, on my MKX are really good for. Is white the best color, amber, blue? When is the best time to use them, day driving, night, rail, snow, fog ...? Are those kinky blue headlights really better? I found a website that answers all these questions and more with good logic and backed with evidence as to what is good, bad and ugly. Here's a sampling: Various companies and individuals are selling halogen headlamp bulbs with blue or purplish-blue glass. There are lots of spurious claims made for these bulbs. They're falsely advertised as "Xenon bulbs" or "HID bulbs", the blue glass is claimed to "force the bulb to perform at a higher level", and there are seemingly endless amounts of pseudoscience aimed at enticing buyers who want better performance from their headlamps. In fact, these bulbs reduce headlamp performance while increasing dangerous glare. ............. White light is made up of every color of light mixed together. But the colors are not all present in equal amounts. The output spectrum of filament bulbs, including halogen headlamp bulbs, includes a great deal of red, orange, yellow and green light, but very little blue or violet light. Blue bulbs have colored glass (or a filter coating applied to clear glass) that allows only the blue light through the filter — this is why the bulbs appear blue. Because very little blue light is produced by a halogen bulb in the first place, it is only this very small amount — a tiny fraction of the total amount of light produced by a halogen bulb filament — that ever reaches the road. ............. Compared to uncolored bulbs, Blue headlight bulbs are able to produce more glare with less light because of the difference between the "signal image", which is what an observer sees when looking at an illuminated headlamp, and the "beam pattern", which is the light viewed from behind the headlamp facing forward, as by the driver of a vehicle. ..........and much, much more. And he also discusses what makes a "good" blue headlight. How about converting your halogen's to HID? Read on... So you've read about HID headlamps and have it in mind to convert your car. A few mouse clicks on the web, and you've found a couple of outfits offering to sell you a "conversion" that will fit any car with a given type of halogen bulb, for between $150 and $600. STOP, put away that credit card. Trying to "convert" halogen headlamps to HID is an unsafe thing to do. There are NO legitimate or safe HID bulb retrofits for halogen headlamps. Here's why. He also has an excellent discussion on "fog" lights, when to use fog lights, when not to, where they should be aimed, what color works best, whether white is better or blue or amber, how to make it work to your advantage, etc. How the eye sees green/yellow better that other colors, how to color a bulb or lens to achieve a specific degree of yellow, (what paint to use), etc. There's history, tests and logic and myths debunked on everything automotive lighting. I hope you enjoy reading about the ins and outs of automotive lighting, as much as I did. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/lights.html

I decided to not install it after readig the posts on it. As must as I hate to, I'll probably bite the bullet and pay the dealer to do it.

Would seem you intend to put a fair amount of $$$ in your 08. Have you considered selling your 08 in a private sale (should get $8-10k) and buying a later model with all the bells and whistles already on it? For example, a nice 2010 Ford Edge SEL with 3.5L V6, automatic transmission, AWD (All wheel drive), power windows and locks, key less entry, power mirrors, cruise control, tilt steering, stereo AM/FM CD, rear defrost, power heated seats, alloy wheels, ABS, air conditioning, panoramic roof & leather interior is on buy-it-now for <$12K on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Edge-SEL-AWD-PANORAMIC-ROOF-LEATHER-2010-ford-edge-sel-awd-panoramic-roof-very-nice-vehicle-/281533306573?forcerrptr=true&hash=item418cb156cd&item=281533306573&pt=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_1856wt_1145 This particular one is in Canada, just grabbed it as an example. But might be a better choice than trying to piece an 08 up to 10 standards. (After all, you would still have an 08, just with more aftermarket on it. And a later year would get you to a later version of Sync, etc.) Just thinking outloud...

What did you find for a glovebox light? (Thinking of doing the same on my 09).

Did you just mount and run the wire to the head unit, and simply plug it in, or did you need to have the dealer program it to turn on? (Also, where did you plug it in at?

Anyone have an opinion on the Sirius LEDs? 6400 total output. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QWVGT7O?psc=1

Haven't checked yet, but my OM lists the light as having 3- 1600XB's as the bulb type. Have to get my lasy *** out and check one of these days. Replaced the two front OH consul with the LED bulbs last night, wow. White and bright. Amazing difference. Weird problems assoc with them though. After I got them installed, one bulb refused to turn off, the other would not turn off. After a messing with them for a few, I finally figured out what was wrong. For the first one, I had mistakenly turned the light control on the instrument panel to "on" position (keeping the bulb on) and in the case of the other, I had put the LED in backwards (polorized).

I went through the filter world and replaced mine in November. Ended up getting OEM (but at the aftermarket price <$10). Personally, I've never noticed any difference between the plain and carbon filter; smoke & odors from the outside still get through the same. (Burning leaves is the most objectionable, cigarette smoke comes in at a close 2nd). Anyone feel that spending the extra $$ for carbon or baking soda filters is actually worth it?

I had that happen to me on my last car (Mercury). Easy fix was to spray WD40 into the door latch mech. Lubed and cut through the old grease and would hold for 2-3 years before I had to do it again. After you spray, open and close the door a couple of times, should free up and turn the light off. Try it before spending any $$$ as it does work!

I think you're right, the Silverstar does not fit your 14 Edge. I plugged in your car on Amazon and got these results: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=au_pf_dp_lf_ladp_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&i=automotive&node=15730151&vehicle=2014-54-5858------------3 Dennis

Dominatron: you consider trying Sylvania's SilverStar Ultra Halogens? They market them as being "whitest and brightest headlight currently available". I had SilverStar's in my last car and really liked them. Were four years old when I traded, but I didn't do a lot of night driving.

Finally drove me nuts. Drove over to the dealer, fella at the desk had me pull my MKX inside, fiddled with it for a few minutes, inside and out, went through usual experimentation process and then .. bingo, windows went down and roof popped open into vent position. There "is" a special trick to it. You can program whether the roof opens or not through the IKT. Darn guy, he figured it out (undocumented procedure) and then jokingly refused to show me how. We got on to another topic and I forgot to go back and have him show me how he did it. Seems to me he clicked it to unlock the door(s), then held it for two seconds to open the windows and then he pressed it again (didn't see if he held it or clicked it a couple of times), but the roof popped open after the windows were down. 1st the door unlocked, then the windows rolled down, and then the roof pops open. Now the windows and roof open together. It appears that we can program whether we want the roof to open or not, simply by programming it through the IKT. (BTW, the IKT cannot open the windows and roof if you are sitting inside the car. That took us five minutes of experimenting to figure that one out). Unrelated, I also had him print out a "as built" listing on my car and it wasn't equipped with DRL. Don't feel it's worth putting money into it for that so I'm sol.

You can pick one up here for $23.27. http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/NarrowDownPart.aspx?partNumber=3F1Z-13B375-AA&vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2007&SubModel=&VehicleID=100&CategoryId=2&CatalogueId=482&CatalogueComponentID=16853158&ComponentCode=TQ1&Attributes=&BuildDate=&Skipped=

When using the integrated keyhead transmitter to unlock the doors on my 09 MKX, only the two front windows roll down; the panoramic roof does not open with them. Is there a trick to getting the roof to open along with the windows? (Car locked, key in off pos & accessory delay not engaged). Thought all three were supposed to open together after the door(s) unlock?

Hey thanks Omar302, right after I read your message went to Amazon and order two bulbs. Haven't checked yet, but I believe that my rear overhead and cargo light are both W5W (T10) bulbs as well. May replace them as well if I like these. Thanks again Dennis