enigma-2

Thank you! FYI, about a half hour ago Verizon notified me that they just came out with a new upgrade for the Galaxy S5; Android version 5.0 (Code name Lollipop). Offers more support for automotive features, plus a bunch of other stuff like 3D views and floating buttons. I downloaded it and now have messaging. Can read on screen or listen to the message being read. Can also reply via Sync. The new Baseband Version is G900VVRU1BOA8.

Have you tried going over the area of the scratch with a fine rubbing compound?

Samsung Galaxy 5, Horizon, 09 MKX with Vs. 2 sync. New phone. Old one was a Droid where everything worked perfectly. Phone will sync OK, make and receive calls, but will not work with messages. When I attempt to send a text message, I get "connected device does not support messaging via blue-tooth"! When I receive a message, phone squawks but Sync sits there dumbfounded. Am I missing something?

Try this, click on http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?&autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+SE&autoYear=2011&autoModClar=FWD&sort=Brand Input "20" for diameter, "silver" for finish and when you find a wheel you like click on "see on vehicle" (change the car color to white if a different color is shown by default). This particular site does not seem to carry the exact wheel your looking for, I.E. 5-spoke, KMC, in silver (they do have it in black), but they do carry three other brands (in silver, 5-spoke).

We were driving Sunday and the roads around here were very slick, nearly frictionless at certain intersections. My 09 MKX did just as you were describing; really loud and heavy vibrations. Seems to kick in harder when stopping from faster speeds (say 40 instead of 30). On "normal" intersection's where the snow pack was heaver and not as slick, the noise level was low and less vibration. I think Waldo hit it on the head with the system becoming more aggressive in low friction road surfaces. I also think speed is contributing to a more aggressive stopping effort as well. (I also found much longer stopping distances, but attributed that to the thin layer of black ice on the road).

Has anyone here installed Sylvania's zevo LED's? http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/ZEVO/Pages/DRL-Pixel-and-Pipe.aspx or interior lights (16 colors, 5 modes). http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/ZEVO/Pages/ZEVO-Interior-Strip-Kit.aspx (Why anyone would need 16 colors is beyond me, I have 6 and usually keep it turned off anyways.)

Just out of curiosity, does thus happen in the same location (IE parking lot at work) or in various places?

Went through the same song and dance with my dealer. Was told that it was not available on my 09, only on later models. Had to install additional hardware, etc. I took in a copy of the electrical schematics and showed the service manager how to enable the DRL. He looked confused and embarrassed. I offered to pay 1/2 hour labor to try and they did. Twenty minutes later they came and got me telling me my DRL's were on.

Ran across this site a few ago, they replace buttons, $5 to $8 ea + labor. http://oem-auto-accessory.com/repair_us___company_info.html

Might be cheaper and easier to have it repaired. This company charges $115-$150 for single decks, $125-$200 for Ford 6-decks. http://oem-auto-accessory.com/repair_us___company_info.html I'd Goggle Ford Radio Repair and see who can do it local to your location (faster turnaround time rather than waiting for radio to get UPS'd ground across the country.)

After I got my 09 MKX I looked around for a way to get by cheaper, ya just can't. The DVD comes with a 16-character password specific to your unit's ESN, which you will need when you order. Can't even sell the disk on Ebay as installation on another radio would require a different, specific password for that radio. You get the password verbally at the time of order & in an email they followup with. Did the latest update, version 7.0x, first time since new, picked up a few more roads than what I had - at least it doesn't show me driving out in the farm fields any longer (grin) Biggest aid is having the POI's up to date, exp lodging, food and gas when traveling out of state. As for what you get, you get two DVD's. First takes about two hours and car MUST be parked & running for the fist 5% of the install (can turn off or drive after that). Disk 2 takes about 1 hour and you can turn engine off or drive after 55% finished. After the map update is finished, you can also install the Gracenote update. Gracenotes take about 1/2 hour to install. (Can turn car off after 5%). In all honesty, you probably already have (or can get) an excellent, free navigation map program on your smart phone. Updated as well. Just get a phone holder for your windshield and use it instead. We just got new Galaxy 5's and one of the first downloads on both me and my wife's cells was a navigation program. (Sometimes plan a trip from the easy chair).

Would something like this be what your looking for (leather - custom for ford)? http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Genuine-Leather-Steering-Explorer/dp/B00QIN7XWQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421814832&sr=1-8&keywords=leather+steering+cover+ford+edge I've thinking about adding one of those cheap slip ons for winter (the wood looks great, but it's cold on the hands in the winter. Wish my MKX had the heated wheel.

I highly doubt that you will find replacement buttons for a radio. I'm guessing that the radios are made in China and even if not, once a model year is over the stock of remaining parts is probably pitched to make room for the current year. (Unless they offer a refreshing service and must retain old stock). Perhaps try contacting a local radio repair shop (do they even exist any more) and see if they can contact the manufacturer for replacement knobs. Otherwise, perhaps a dead unit off Ebay? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ford+radio+knobs Only thing I can think of is, using a sheet of glossy Avery labels, print the functions that you want (perhaps 4-6pt Ariel) with a background color to match the radio knobs; cut out the out and paste over the old knobs. (Or maybe using a clear, transparent label material instead of coloring a white label)? If you use Word or Word-perfect you could also do symbols to match the original. Here's a site that offers ford knobs: http://replacementradios.com/buttonsknobs-c-290_319_531.html

As you get heat on the passenger side, there's really only a couple of things it could be. I would have them check the driver's-side temperature blend door & actuator, for a binding or broken condition. (Most likey sticking). If nothing is found, then I would suspect the HVAC module.

Been thinking about that. If I can be nosy, what does something like that cost?

On my 09 MKX, Blue/Orange stripe + feed (from smart junction box through accessory delay relay) Green / Brown stripe reversing lamps Blue / Gray stripe power mirrors + Brown power mirrors - Gray / Blue strip compass + Blue / Gray stripe compass - Yellow / Green stripe mic + Blue mic - DMM13 mic shield Black mirror ground

I remember following a thread on Bobistheoilguy.com in which this filter system was widely discussed. Overall consensus was that it was the worst air filter available to use on a car. (If you have never been to his site, it is without question thew best website on engine oil and filtration for cars, period) Here is the website for the air filter tests. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filtration-test/ (Besides oils and air filtration, thay also have good forums on tires & wheels, lubrication, additives, general automotive). http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm In the forums, several talked about how the K&N filter was originally designed for racing and that each race engine was broken down after each race, (if I remember correctly it paralleled a thread where race drivers also use non-detergent oil instead of detergent during a race for the same reasons). A passenger automobile is however is designed to run for thousands of miles between oil/air cleaner changes. Problem if I remember was the filter medium did not restrict the finest particles of grit, allowing more air flow but allowing the smallest particles to pass through, those that did the most harm to the cylinder walls, etc. (Think it was related to allowing particles under 100 microns to pass through, but don't quote me on that). Several respondents (most identified themselves as mechanics or otherwise appeared to be to talk on the subject, Bob the author of the site is a mechanical engineer) argued that the greater MPG increase is due to greater airflow into the engine due to less filtration, and causing scouring of the cylindar walls and other harm to the engine. (In fairness, there were a couple who disputed this, but they appeared to be normal drivers like myself, not mechanics, and seemed to have a personal interest in using the filter). Here's the page on testing, look carefully at the pictures of the K&N filters and how much dirt was allowed through. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filter-filtration-test/ As to your problem, I believe that the mass air flow sensor monitors the airflow volume (and temperature) of the incoming air stream. It's probably detecting too much air flow and setting a code thinking that the OEM air filter is defective. Personally, I feel it's ridiculous to believe that the major automobile manufacturers would not know about this and would have adopted it's use should it (K&N) proved to provide more MPG. Consider they spend millions in research to improve gas mileage and if a $10 filter would give 2-3 more MPG, it's a no brainer to use it. They don't because they know it causes serious problems in an engine over time. Personally I would never consider using anything other than a standard OEM Motorcraft filter (air & oil) in my car. Related to this, Bob also did evaluations covering all oil filters and Motorcraft was rated as one of the best. (Mobile One was best, but a nearly $20 filter seemed that was just throwing money away). A lot of cheap filters sold at WalmMart & the like, were rated unacceptable (allowed oil to leak around the seals - if the filter even had internal seals). If I remember correctly (haven't been back there in a while), Fram was one of the worst, had all kinds of internal problems.

Akirby is right, there is a tolerance that the speedometer can read during normal operation. Here's what the service manual says about it. Pinpoint Test I: Inaccurate Speedometer Indication Normal Operation The PCM calculates the vehicle speed from the transaxle Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor input and from the tire size and axle ratio configuration in the PCM Vehicle Identification (VID) block. The PCM provides the Instrument Cluster (IC) with the vehicle speed data over the High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) bus. The IC monitors the vehicle speed input and commands the speedometer with a corresponding movement of the pointer. The IC provides a tolerance which biases the speed indication and allows the gauge to display between 3% lower and 7% higher than the actual vehicle speed. This means that with an actual vehicle speed of 96.6 km/h (60 mph), the speedometer may indicate between 93.7-103.3 km/h (58.2-64.2 mph). Other factors that can potentially affect the speedometer accuracy are incorrect tire size, tire size configuration and axle ratio configuration. If the IC does not receive the vehicle speed data from the PCM for 5 seconds or less, the IC defaults the speedometer to the last setting, based upon the last known good vehicle speed message. If the IC does not receive the vehicle speed data from the PCM for more than 5 seconds or if the data received is deemed invalid, the IC sets DTC U0100 in continuous memory and defaults the speedometer to 0 km/h (0 mph). NOTE: If DTC U0100 is set in the IC , other observable symptoms may be an inoperative tachometer, temperature gauge or odometer. One thing this brings to mind is having your PCM recalibrated after you do a tire size change.

Thought I'd pass this along if anyone has been looking for new wheels. TireRack.Com clearance started today, ad states up to 60% off on wheels. Looked for my 20" tires and they have 13 wheels, starting at $179 each & up to 28% off. And if your really in to it, they have some for over $1000 each. ;-) http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/index.jsp?camefrom=&fromIndex=true&isDom=false&index=xx&search=&autoMake=&autoModel=&autoYear=&autoModClar=

Just guessing, but the one common denominator for all of these problems is they all originate at the Smart Junction Box. Perhaps a corroded connector feeding the SJB? (Under instrument consul, left of driver).

Heh. Wait till you find out their all in Chineese metric thread .... :-)

Well, tried it this weekend and it doesn't really work. Still pops off the peg. Really poor design by Ford. Thinking about using a Dremal and making some "indentations" on each side of the peg. (Too cold to do anything right now).

This what you're looking for? http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=black+ford+emblem&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3527191690&ref=pd_sl_24w41fn2co_e

Here's the procedure from the service manual: Removal and Installation 1. NOTE: Release the upper steering column shroud by pressing inward on the sides of the shroud and lifting upwards. Remove the upper steering column shroud. 2. Release the tilt lever, remove the 3 lower steering column shroud screws and the shroud. 3. Disconnect the multifunction switch electrical connector. 4. Remove the 2 multifunction switch screws and remove the switch. 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure. If you want to test it after removal, hold the switch so that the connector at the bottom right. Terminal #1 will be at top left, #16 is at the bottom right. When the switch is in the off position, measure between terminals #12 & #15 and it should be open (no continuity). (#12 is the low int connector).

Tried it and it does seem to work. Will know better when we go to the store tomorrow. Thanks for the idea.